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Castles, pirates and treasure
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I spent my final days in Cartagena walking the streets taking photos. The city walls and the buildings contained within are interesting to explore - every street seems to transform as the sun passes overhead to alter the angle of light and shadows cast.
I made it out to the "Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas", which is one of five Spanish defensive forts (and arguably the most impressive) built around Cartagena during the 17th century in an effort to curb the frequent plundering of the sea-side city. After stealing treasures from the Colombian natives they sure didn't want them to be pinched by petty pirates. It seems it was a smart decision, because "in March of 1741 the city was surrounded by the troops of the English admiral Edward Vernon, who arrived at Cartagena with a enormous fleet of 186 ships and 23,600 men (the biggest fleet assembled up to that time), against only 6 ships and 3,000 men. Finally he had to retire after the siege was repelled by the commander, General Blas de Lezo."
While walking through some of the tunnels under the fort, a random bloke came up to me and offered "some information" about the fort for 2000 Pesos (US$1). He seemed to be practising his English skills, and the fort doesn't have a single information poster, so I agreed and actually copped a decent amount of interesting info. For instance, as the English were significantly taller than the Spanish, they made the tunnels small. Elaborate drainage, water and sleeping systems meant that when the English attacked during a drought it was the fort-holders who were most comfortable - they had good hygienic conditions due to the advanced drainage systems, plenty of stored water and a well, along with cool underground tunnels to avoid the heat. The outer walls were designed at a specific angle and were cushioned by a layer of sand behind them to best withstand cannon attacks. The Spanish knew the sea was too shallow to stage an attack and that the bay was too narrow, so they in fact faced the majority of their cannons inland as if expecting a land-based attack. Which is, of course, exactly what happened. Even if the outer walls were breached, there are so many escape mechanisms built into the tunneling - and even collapsible bridges - that the fort-holders would have time to regroup and defend from advantageous positions. If all was lost then there were two separate escape tunnel options, as well as a well-defended keep at the peak of the fort that would surely slow the attackers' progress.
Another interesting sight was on the final day of the Independence Day celebrations, when from my hostel I heard a commotion out on the street. I went out to investigate, and could hear the police loudspeakers blaring something about getting off the street as there was a parade coming. Sure enough, a few minutes later the sound of drums and singing approached, proceeded by almost an hour of entertainment of all shapes and sizes. Plenty of bright costumes, energetic dancing, fire breathing, and a variety of music moving slowly down the street...
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