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Alligator Alley
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The Drive to Kakadu was hot, in just a few short days in the van we had realised that this next month was not to be the most comfortable if for no other reason, the lack of cold drinks. We had an esky, but needed regular ice to keep anything below 30 degrees and in the far north, in the middle of national parks this is no easy feat.
Although it sat uneasily with us, we decided that on our way into Kakadu we should go and see a jumping croc show - the reasoning being that this would probably be the closest we would get to these magnificent creatures, safely, and also give us an idea of what we may have to face should we get stuck in the middle of nowhere, camped by a billibong, under the shade of a coolibar tree, one evening.
The 1 hour trip along the river was great - the crocs are encouraged to perform a couple of jumps with the aid of a lump of dead flesh on the end of a fishing rod, dangled from the top of a 2 story boat - the bottom deck being completely encased in glass, giving an eye to eye view of the crocs, the top deck being safer but also giving you a better look at this animals in action. A 6ft croc can propell itself out of the water vertically up, just on it's tail, in next to no time - It really does give you a reaffirmation of the respect these animals deserve. It sounds a little like a circus, but the crocs are completely wild, and they are only teased with the meat 2 or 3 times before they get it, preventing dangerous build up of lactic acid in their bodies through the exersion required to jump. Along the way we were also able to view a white chested eagle and some very hungry kites who wanted a bit of the action !
We continued further into the Park and finally came across a not too outback campsite where we decided to stop for the night, utilising the pool that was on offer before heading to the north end of the park the following morning. That evening as the sun was setting we were entertained by a plethera of Cockatoos, showing off and shouting to potential mates - hanging upside down from their beaks, biting off twigs and spitting them towards us and our van so it seemed.. !
Up and off early we headed for the information centre in the heart of the park near Jabiru to find out where to go and where we could camp, taking time to look around the brilliant interpretive centre they have their on the delicate eco system that is Kakadu, the traditional owners and how they are all working together to keep this place as special as it is. We were told that we could head up to the far north of the Park and a place called Ubir where we could have a series of free talks by one of the rangers over the afetrnoon about the area which included some of the aboriginal art which is to be found up in caves there. The talks were facinating as were the rock art, all culminating in an amazing sunset viewing point on top of the escarpment over looking the floodplains and mountains all the way into Arhnem Land, a huge area of Aboriginal land not easily accessed without a permit and guide. We camped close to Ubir for the night, in the middle of a small camp ground clearing - nothing but the stars and the sounds of frogs to keep us company - Bliss !
The next day we retraced our steps to Jabiru and then out to the eastern fringes to see our first proper Billibong where we dined with the flies - overlooking the water filled with Ibis, Egrets, Waders and somewhere we were sure were some crocs watching our cheese and crisp sandwiches closely!
After another interpretive centre, this time for another one of the traditional tribes of this incredible area we decided that we would camp the night in another camp ground with the promise of another guided ranger walk this time looking at the bush tucker availible. Either he was early or we were late - whatever the excuse the walk did not take place, however we did find out that a slide show would be shown later that evening, with a comentary from one of the traditional owners called Rose. She took us through a full year in the life of one of the water systems, in particular the land management, how and when buring took place and the different food stuff availible including turtle - allegedly very tasty, especially just before the dry season when they have stored up loads of juicy fat to last them until the rains return !! The slide show was very informative and Rose's information on how her people tend the lands as they ancestors have for tens of thousands of years showing that we still need to listen and take note of what these people know before it is lost forever.
We head out west next.............
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