Kumasi, a five hour journey northwest of Accra is a sprawling West African metropolis daunting in its chaos, its absurdly clogged streets, its haphazard attempt at public transportation (AKA tro-tros). And yet, for all its chaos, it's heart was gentle, no meanness or ill-will to be found.
On our first tro-tro to Kumasi Market, our surroundings looked like a forgotten colonial city, stuck in time, dancing to the sound of progress with too many cars and a few internet cafes. As we crossed the bridge to the cultural center, the market sprawled on and on into some unseeable, undefineable distance, tin roofs reflecting the sun's heat under a smoggy sky. It pulsated with life, a freakin galaxy of life swirling around ready to inhale all those navigating its perimeter.
We continued past the market at first to the cultural center where we saw artisians making traditional fabric, drums, pots, and bronze figures. Unlike Benin, no one shouted, no one pushed us to buy their stuff. We just looked and moved on. No hassle, no hustle.
Outside the cultural center's gate, I purchased a Jesus framed picture with a Bible verse for my host family in Lokossa. Little did I know how popular this souvenir and our cameras would make us in the market. This 'intimidating' market became a faux celebrity experience. I took pictures with the marche mamas selling tomatos, fish, plates... and of course, Jesus joined us in each one.
All in all, what can be said is that folks in Ghana are really darned nice- very hospitable, friendly, and outgoing. We had a great time at the market, but once again, transport was our doom... We waited on a tro-tro back to the office for over an hour- this after a long day of walking around in the sun. I finally just sat my rear end down on the filthy street, but Suzy was less inclined to do so as she was wearing a brand new dress. Well, eventually, she got too tired and I agreed to let her sit on my Jesus picture because I thought it was plastic... But, no... Jesus shattered all over the place and the poor, super-religious people from Ghana were horrified. That set everything in motion: the station manager got us the next bus out of town. It took breaking Jesus to get out of Kumasi market... but, after all, we did make it out!
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