Island Hopping in Thailand
Trip Start
Aug 20, 2008
1
13
15
Trip End
Apr 14, 2009
Railay Beach,
Thailand
Sunday, February 15, 2009
The next day I packed up and took myself down to the pier to grab a longtail boat over to Railay. As I was the only backpacker heading that way I was treated to my very own private boat, which would have been bliss save for the ominous drops of rain that were beginning to fall on my head. Forty minutes later we puttered into the east peninsula of Railay draped by lush mangroves and a very pebbly shoreline.....luckily I had done my research and was prepared for the lack of docking facilities, which in short means you have to hop out into the sea hold your backpack aloft and make your way deftly to the shore. Than fully about thirty seconds after hitting dry land I located the nearest guest house and within half an hour I was holed up in one of the wooden bungalows in the delightfully named Ya Ya Resort. So once again I was back to sub zero showers, incessant humidity and a rather delicate requirement to run with a bucket of water towards the loo after I was done with my business. It seems plumbing doesnīt come as part of the budget paradise package!
Railay may have earned a reputation over the past few years as a location for adventure pursuits in particular rock climbing but I was determined to avoid any form of strain and recharge my batteries. Railay itself is essentially a finger of land protruding from the mainland into the Adaman sea. The eastern side still bears some of the scars of the Tsumani tragedy in 2004 . particularly the flattened trees and battered shoreline - but thankfully its twin side escaped its worst ravages.The western beach is a perfectly secluded spot hemmed in by cliffs and dense vegetation. Sheltered by vaulted rocks the horseshoe beach is only about two kilometres long and is definitely one of the more chilled out spots to be found in Thailand. It also helped that most of the bars and restaurants were ringed along the beachfront.....a perfect escape after a few threatening clouds and rain drops began making an unwelcome appearance. Those rocks could wait to be climbed another time!
Still life on a secluded hideaway does have its drawbacks, notably the thin walls which meant I could hear every verse of the Black Velvet Band being mangled by a fellow Irish tourist (why are these people allowed passports??) and the insects. Not just the blasted mosquitoes which have an unhealthy attraction to me but one evening as I was toweling off my post-shower arctic self, I noticed a cockroach about the size of my fist sauntering across the floor. Now I`m not quite sure what kind of visceral loathing they inspire but as quick as a flash I was gathering up my imaginary skirts about me while flinging a copy of the Lonely Planet Guide to South East Asia at it with all the vehemence I could muster. Naturally it just waltzed through a crack in the wall without as much as a backward glance!
Suitably composed a few days later I was off to Kho Phi Phi, Railayīs much more commercial rival. Sure enough as soon as we set foot there we were besieged by a deluge of hawkers offering us accommodation, snorkeling tours and all manner of distractions. I got myself sorted with a room for few nights and then traipsed along with several other bemused tourists behind a local guide who trundled our luggage on a wheelbarrow up the steep muddy road. Oh this was going to be fun! The main beach was about a 15 minute walk away, though it did involve trying to duck the advances of the local massage ladies who would besiege you with cries of "You sexy man - you come for massage with me now! You have funtime". It was like strolling onto an Oliver Stone set.
Kho Phi Phi is another good spot for those seeking a bit of an active holiday in particular diving courses. Unfortunately I only had a few days so itīll have to wait until next time. Of course itīs sister island is also famous as the location of Leonardo di Caprioīs movie "The Beach" if such things get you all hot and bothered....there are plenty of day trips over if it does.
Unfortunately for me the weather during my stay was pretty shite. Despite this being November, the Monsoon decided to linger on a bit longer which meant that one entire day was a complete washout and resulted in me sheltering in a variety of coffee shops, bars (oh surprise!) and internet cafes. Just be wary that if you decide to fool around on the net for long here, it will cost you a small fortune as I learnt to my dismay. On the plus side, if the weather does turn foul thereīs plenty of bookshops where you can swap your current read (in my case a shameful Dan Brown heap of illiterate shite) for something a tad more worthy!. Thereīs also an amazing view from the lookout point at the top of the island, though if youīve been traveling for several months like me and havenīt been getting any regular exercise the 323 step hike to the top might leave you just a bit on the winded side! Having said that the views from the top are mesmerising and you have a clear vista right out over the island and the cobalt blue sea beyond. On a clear day itīs just magical. There are also some photos nearby where you can witness the destruction wreaked by the Tusunami on the far peninsula - much of it was completely flattened by the force of the oncoming tide. Its a testament to the resilience of the Thai people how much things have been improved since that fateful day, though itīs a timely reminder of how vulnerable the entire tourist infrastructure here is.
But despite the weather it was an extremely enjoyable and relaxing few days. You really canīt fault a place that has no motor cars or any traffic whatsoever (apart from the occasional motorbike and wheelbarrow!) and as usual in Thailand the food is just amazing......best of all not a cockroach to be found!
