Building bridges in Istanbul
Trip Start
Aug 20, 2008
1
12
15
Trip End
Apr 14, 2009
Istanbul,
Turkey
Friday, February 13, 2009
Symbolism aside it really is an amazing city. Built on layers of history the city showcases an amazing array of architectural achievement and resilience. It´s also blessed with a truly unique setting, as it sweeps down on both sides of the Bosphorous river proudly showcasing its dual European and Asian heritage. Oh and it´s got Starbucks. Lots of them. After two and a half months being subjected to the desiccated remains of putrid coca ash (if even) I fell to my knees and thanked the good lord for the scourge of Globalism.
After the inevitable tearful reunion we set off to check out, the city´s main pedestrian thoroughfare Istakel Cadessi - strategically located just minutes from our hotel (I won´t bore you now with my response to clean sheets, flushing toilets, cable tv and hot water but it was an even more tearful reunion if that were possible!!) As two people who´ve spent a considerable amount of time in Eastern Europe we were both struck by the similarities between Istanbul and that part of the continent, particularly in terms of architecture but also it has to be said in the demeanour and dress sense of the locals. You´ve heard it here first. Black is the new black in Turkey. They are certainly not a race of people who will ever challenge themselves with pastel experimentation.
But that aside the city does boast a thriving coffee and dining culture.....on any of the myriad of side streets off Istakel Cadessi you can find an impressive array of al fresco restaurants offering a feast of middle eastern cuisine (and I don´t just mean kebabs!) Just right behind our hotel was one such street, which even from early evening was packed with customers enjoying dinner or a glass of wine. Now this is what I call a civilised country. As a special treat on our last night I had booked a table in the Marmara restaurant in Taksim. It turned out to be a great decision. It boasts probably the best panoramic views of the whole city and it´s particularly special at night as you gaze out on the Bosphorous and Mosques illuminated in the distance. Admittedly it´s not cheap but you get a sensational wine list, perfectly attentive service and great food from your 17th story vantage point. Oh and yeah the cocktails aren´t bad either (we´re recommending the Long Island Iced teas since you asked) One thing´s for certain you won´t starve during your visit to Istanbul......
On our first full day we decided to hit one of the big tourist draws - the city´s grand bazaar. It´s been around in one form or another for the best part of four hundred years and it´s certainly an experience. Inside is a dense network of alleys piled high with every ting from knock off Prada handbags and trainers, belly dancing costumes, gaudy crockery and jewelry. Each section has a certain designation so if your mission is a fake designer handbag then you can just concentrate on that area alone. For whatever reason there is an excessive amount of shops all selling pretty much the same type of gold plated bling. On and on it stretches like Liberace's walk in wardrobe.... There´s lots on offer, though while I´m no expert, very little of what was one view could be classed as tasteful. Once you´ve braced yourself for a busy afternoon of shopping there, be prepared to bargain. Some of the stall owners do veer on the side of pushy but if you can stand your ground and manage some persistence there are plenty of bargains on offer.
The other big touristy draws namely the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia church are definitely a must see, though they are decidedly more impressive from the outside (having said that the Blue Mosque does boat some pretty plush carpet. Just in case there are any (real) travellers reading this...) But if you really want to experience the city then you have to hop on a boat and head out on the majestic Bosphourous. The best trip is the hop over to the ´Asian´ side for an afternoon, though there isn´t a staggering amount to detain you when you get there. After a quick cup of coffee in Asia, we were wandering back to the dock when we were distracted by the loud thumping bass beats coming from one of the boats. A quick exchange of glances and we were boarding the ´disco boat´. As random spur of the moment decisions go, this proved to be one of the best as our ´disco´ boat turned out to be a full tour of the entire river giving an opportunity to marvel at the cityscape on either side and watch a truly spectacular sunset over the city. It was definitely a highlight of the weekend......though to this day neither of us could tell you where to catch the boat or what time it travels at. Just head over to Asia and keep an ear out for the baseline.....and you´ll be fine!
Apart from that negotiating your way around the city is a doddle. Apart from a modern metro system, Istanbul has an extensive network of tram lines and even the very cute funicular at Tunel, which happens to be the oldest underground metro line in Europe if such things fascinate you. It´s as cheap as be damned, so if you are nursing a hangover and your sense of direction has decided to take an early flight home you should still manage to find your way around without too much difficulty. Most of the night time shenanigans take place in Beyoglu and armed with an English language copy of Time Out Istanbul we gave it our best shot. If you are expecting Barcelona sophistication and style then it might be wise to lower your expectations just a notch. Nightprowlers in Istanbul can expect lots of very cramped clubs filtered by a dense cloud of cigarette smoke and utterly shite Turkish pop. As someone who has been backstage at the Eurovision it brought back painful memories. On the plus side though you can while away the hours until dawn dancing around your handbag.
As with most bridges this one eventually had to be crossed and the weekend was all too quickly at an end. Still Istanbul fulfilled it`s promises and left an armful of happy memories.....and a determination that we`d be back again someday.
