Doing God's Work in Sri Lanka (ish)
Trip Start
Aug 20, 2008
1
3
15
Trip End
Apr 14, 2009
Weliveriya,
Sri Lanka
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Now I'm not sure if Mrs McTavish wasn't either at the sherry, the cool-aid or both but based on her opionion that we "had kind faces" she had make the incredible leap that we were soldiers for jesus! (I know I had gone very monastic a la mode a few days previously with linen trousers, sandals and a freshly shaved head - but still?) So I suppose that's Sri Lanka for you. They used to call it Serendip. Land of unexpected and fortuitous discovery! Bless! I can say that without irony now.
Whatever about walking a righteous path, I was in Sri Lanka for a wholesome purpose. After visiting the country last year with Ed, I'd agreed - in a moment of sudden altruism - to come back and help out the Partners in Care charity. And so that's how I came to end up living in a jungle. In a boy's home. For three weeks. Armed with nothing but my wits and a very expensive tv camera. It was certainly going to be an experience!
The camera bit I should explain. In it's wisdom the charity decided I should help to instigate an English language programme in Christ King College primary school in the village of Weliveryia about an hour's drive from the capital Colombo.
"And here is the news...."
The plan was to use some of the money I had raised to set up a bespoke TV studio, where the pupils could create their own programmes, write their own scripts and generally begin speaking with clipped patrician tones (sort of). In truth English is still the passport to better future prospects in Sri Lanka and this was one teaching method that was certain to engage the kids. The school itself is one of the biggest achievements of the charity to date. In the space of just over four years it has risen from nothing and now accomodates a staggering 850 pupils, mostly drawn from the local Christian community - though Buddhist children are also welcome.After a shopping expedition to the local town we located all the neccessary set dressing including yards of blue fabric for our backdrop, backlights, mountains of pens and paper and last but not least possibly the ugliest egg-yoke yellow chair ever designed. We literally were only an astrologer and a cookery segment away from launching our own Breakfast Show!
After a little bit of bemused trepidation the kids took to the idea and before you could say "Time now for this week's makeover....", they were poised and enunciating perfectly to camera (and not a diva strop between them) By the end of the second full week, they had amassed enough skills to script a full tv report about their school and life in Sri Lanka, which will hopefully be brodcast later this month on RTE's news programme for young people.
Apart from moulding future television presenters I also helped out with the school's breakfast programme each morning.
"Back to you Sharon...."
As many of the children at Christ King come from severely disadvantaged backgrounds, putting anything on the table first thing is treated as an un-necessary extravagence. So each morning up to twenty five children were giving a nutritious head start with fruit, yougurt, bread and tea. Admittedly for the first week the children stared at their breakfast with a mixture of bewilderment and shock. Most Sri Lankans start their day with string hoppers (made from rice flour) and curry and would consider this very 'continental' offering as the equivalent to starting the day with desert. They were won over eventually and got some well needed variety in their diet though we did little to alter the view amongst most Sri Lankan natives that foreigners are just a little bit mad.However that can work both ways! While hand on heart I can say that they are possibly the friendliest, most gentle people on earth with a warm easy-going demeanour (its a bit like discovering a race of Asian Canadians), they all clearly have nothing but the highest disregard for their own mortality. Asteroids hurtling through space navigate with more precision than Sri Lankans display on the road. Not once in almost a month in the country did I see a driver indicate. Or see a speed sign for that matter. Only for the position of the sterring wheel would a visitor know what side of the road it is customary to drive on. Taking a ride in a tuk tuk here is the most white knuckled, heart stopping, underwear destroying, eyes-closed brush with death you will ever take.
In a word "wow"
I'm told its something to do with the Buddhist philospohy of reincarnation which shrugs off the threat of death with a barely disguised nonchalence but fuck me it's somethign to behold! Apart from the fact that every one with a driving licence is a potential killer, be warned if you ever visit the country you will be besieged with a flurry of (fairly invasive) questions including the ever faithful conundrum, "Where are you going?" (in life, my career, right now???) to "Why are you not married?" and "which religion do you observe?". (Neither of my answers to the last two were entirely satisfactory) Let's just say, a quick walk into the local village felt like I'd be through a vigorous speed-dating ordeal.After three weeks in Weliveryia it was time to move on and say goodbye especially to the kids in the boy's home where I had been staying. It is also funded by the charity and looks after 16 boys from broken homes and disadvantaged backgrounds. The boys made the entire experience even more worthwhile, despite waking up sharp as a tack at 5.30am every morning before playing and shouting outside my window. For a group of kids who spend all day every day together, they never run out of things to say to each other (apart from DVD night when, like all eleven year olds the world over, they sit in rapt silence watching 'Transformers' for the eleven billionth time) It was truly very sad saying goodbye.
My final port of call was a trip to Sigiryia, which boasts that it is the 'Eighth Wonder of the World' and its not hard to disagree. It's an ancient rock fortress north of the beautiful city of Kandy and should be on everyone's itinerary to the country. Rising out of the landscape, commanding a towering presence over the entire region, it truly is an amazing sight. Once you've scaled the rock, you not only get to view the ruins of a once splendid seat of power for the Kingdom but you are also treated to some of the most breathtaking and arresting views of the surrounding district. I was completly overawed, almost enough to feel a tingle of religous awakening. Then I came to my senses and took some photos. Bless!
Comments
God's Work?
Tell me this is going to be syndicated! Reads so well I can almost imagine I'm there too. Wish I was! You do realise you'll be called Bro John now, don't you? Crowds will be queueing at the Front Lounge for your blessing on your return, when you glide in with a sari and a shaved head.
Troy is right dammit!
Brother Ed here!..
Dearest Jon or Joehn as the boys in weliveriya used to shout at 5Fec*ing AM!, to think of the wasted opportunities in Negombo... what were we thinking looking for A&F tight fitting, pec enhancing tshirts when we should have been getting you that monks robe.. 'Tangerine Queen' . there isnt a monastery in nepal that would turn you away if you had grabbed the Buddhist garb and slapped on a bindi for good measure..
go on go on go on.. grab one while in Ind-JA and take a snap.. (with your new camera of course)... Imagine the talk in Tulla!
jordanaya!