Twillingate: Iceberg Capital of the World. Not.

Trip Start Jun 06, 2011
Trip End Jun 21, 2011

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Where I stayed
Harbor Lights Inn

Flag of Canada  , Newfoundland and Labrador,
Tuesday, June 14, 2011

We left Woody Point in Gros Morne National Park this morning and traveled eastward to Twillingate. This stop was made part of our itinerary because of Twillingate's designation as the "Iceberg Capital of the World" and we had hoped to see one, or even a few. Nine out of 10 years, this week in June would be an ideal to see them here. However, we rolled into town and found out that this is not the year. While there are several icebergs to the northwest of here near St. Anthony’s (150 kilometres away), they have not made their way here yet.

Our day started with an example of Newfoundland hospitality, which helps to restore one’s confidence in the human race. We went to a small (2 washers, 2 dryers) laundromat in Woody Point, figuring we’d wash a few clothes and hang out on the deck over the bay before driving five hours to Twillingate. One of the washers was in use when we got there, and we started our load of “must do” items. A woman came into the laundry area and observed that we were tourists and said that she had started the other washer but would remove her things if we needed to use that washer. I like to think that someone back home would do the same thing for a stranger/visitor in town, but I have my doubts.

We drove the Trans Canada Highway for several hours, continuing to look for that elusive moose along the side of the road or in a bog visible from the roadway, but we have yet to see one. We cranked up music in the vehicle, to ease the monotony of the drive, which is something that 50 somethings don’t normally do. Keith has already admitted that he occasionally likes to listen to techno music; he’ll further disclose that he likes Abba and listened to all of their hits as we cruised down the TCH as it’s known here.

We found a lobster pool in our research which has outdoor dining on a deck built over the harbor in Hilgrade, about 15 minutes before we got to Twillingate. Kathi and the owner selected a nice pound and a quarter lobster from the pool and she had a great meal. Keith is not enamored with lobster, so he had yet another fish and chips meal. The family that operates the lobster pound (mother is chief cook and waitress, daughter was re-painting rail around dock dining area, husband was milling around lobster pool) were extremelty friendly and hospitable.

We checked into the Harbor Lights Inn on Main Street in Twillingate and then went out to do some hiking after a long day in the vehicle. There are several nice trails at the Long Point Lighthouse in Crow Head, about a mile outside of Twillingate. We opted to do Nanny’s Hole trail, which wound down from the lighthouse about three kilometers to a headland above the Atlantic Ocean. This is some of the finest coastline we’ve seen and we both commented that parts of it look like the British Isles, with areas of grassy headland abutting the rocky shore.

We suffered the first minor casualty of the trip this afternoon when Kathi got bit by a black fly near her right eye and it swelled considerably. Hopefully, it will be better in the morning.

The innkeeper where we're staying tonight said that rain is forecast tomorrow after a super day today. We'll see if the forecasters and prognosticators here are any better than at home. We're scheduled to take a ferry to Fogo Island tomorrow and stay the night, which won't be such fun in a storm. We'll see what happens.
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Drew Kiszka on

Great work on the blog! Thanks for sharing this beautiful trip.
Safe travels.

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