Maputo to Ilha de Mozambique
Trip Start
Apr 03, 2008
1
22
27
Trip End
Jun 25, 2008
Ilha de Mozambique,
Mozambique
Monday, May 26, 2008
My hasty departure from Maputo included a flight up north to Nampula, via Beira. As I had opted for a cheaper early evening flight from Maputo, darkness overcame the airport and with it came a delayed departure for myself and 100+ others in the airport lounge. Hitting Nampula about 10pm, rather than 8pm as the booking office of Mozambique Airlines had indicated, I took a taxi into Nampula city center to find a cheap hotel recommended by the lodge in Maputo
Announcer at Ilha football match
. With the taxi driver agreeing at the airport to take me to the Residencial MonteCarlo for a set price of 70 meticas (local currency), it soon became clear he had no idea nor intention of taking me to my desired location, nor at a price that we had agreed. Ten minutes later, and 100 meticas (equivalent of 4 bucks) lighter, I was dropped off at Hotel Lurio, aka Roach Motel. Trust me folks, this place barely gets a star on the 5 scale rating. And although beggars cant be choosers, I would advise those of you visiting Nampula to head elsewhere for the night.Early the next day, I gathered my pack and headed to the chapa station, in hopes of catching a bus to Ilha de Mozambique. The time, 8am. Arriving at the lot where chapas (minibuses and buses) depart, I located my ride and agreed with the driver my fare for the anticipated 3 hour ride to Ilha. I didn't even mind the 2 hour wait to fill the bus, as chapas never depart the lots until fully crammed with passengers. And crammed it was, with 5 people per row, and 6 rows in the bus with luggage all strapped to the roof. Note: the term luggage is a loose one, in that it includes bags, food, chicken feed (or other rank-smelling animal feed), live animals such as the goat tied to the roof of our bus, etc. Thirty minutes into our so-called journey, it was indicated that we had to change a flat tire. Add yet another hour. No worries - I feel this is all part of the adventure, and even though I speak no Portugese I became acquainted with my fellow passengers like cute little Emoo and others
Bill and the Captain in Ilha
. The trip ended, with my arrival 6 hours after having started. I was in Ilha de Mozambique, my home for the next 6 days.Ilha de Mozambique is a fascinating place. It is a small island off the northeastern coast of Mozambique, and was once known as a major slave trading port until the 1800s. My reason for coming, other than to visit the island itself, was to catch up with my cousin Greg, who has been living and voluteering on several donor type projects in Mozambique for the past 3 months. Greg spent 6 weeks in Maputo working with an organization called Technoserve on a value chain initiative focusing on oil seed production, and then moved up to Ilha for another 4 weeks to assist an upcoming tourism-affiliated enterprise with preparation of a business plan which would enable this owner to seek investment capital for refurbishments and renovations in following years.
Walking around Ilha, it became clear that this island was indeed impoverished. The total population of the island is about 17,000 but there is little other than fishing and tourism as real industries for Ilha de Mozambique. There exist only 2 restaurants, 2 bars and about 10 accomodations, so thus there is little to support increasing demand by tourists. Staying at what would soon become a mid-market accomodation on Ilha, and for whom my cousin Greg is working and supporting these four weeks was an experience in itself
Buckwheat hair in Ilha
. The premises itself is a former slave-trading post, and backs up right to the water. While this may in fact sound nice, and I agree in that the views are splendid, locals defecating on the beach somehow peared down the allure and exoticism of the experience. Yes, that's right. With little or sub-standard sewage systems in place, the locals of Ilha de Mozambique just drop drawers in the open, at waters edge, and pray to the porcelin god. Needless to say, I have not been swimming yet.Exploring the city is magnificent though. One can easily see that this island, in years past, was a glorious place. The narrow streets passing along the island are lined with old colonial architecture, now fading in color and crumbling to a desolate state. It is hoped that the government will invest in the refurbishment of the town, but that is highly unlikely. Instead, it will likely be investors which feel a sense of social obligation and commitment to the economic and social growth of Ilha, that will return the city to a better state of affairs than that which currently exists. The northern side of the island, former administrative area for the island, needs much work and is nearly deserted as a result. The southern side of the island, home to most of the island's inhabitants, consists of mazes of reed and mud huts set against a backdrop of crystal blue waters (and foul smelling beaches)
Building a boat in Ilha
. All in all, Ilha de Mozambique is a memorable place to visit.Two highlights thus far: 1) heading to a makeshift disco in an abandoned building under the stars one Friday evening, where Greg, Jorge and I chilled the night away with 200-300 locals dancing to reggae and other tunes til about 2am. 2) heading to the local boys and girls soccer games at the northern end of the island one Sunday afternoon, definitely viewed as the main event of the week.
We hoped to actually head out on a fishing dhow (boat) prior to leaving Ilha later in the week. Heading out with spear fishermen with makeshift masks and guns seems a great way to remember our time in Ilha. Wasnt, however, in the deck of cards for us. But rather, a tour of the old fort coupled with a dhow ride to the tip of the mainland with Uncle Bill and Aunt Karlen did materialize. Ilha, with family and host Jorge (owner of accomodation) was a great way to spend a week in the north of the country.
