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On to Sfax
Entry 12 of 17 | show all | print this entry |
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Today, we transferred to Sfax, the reason being that our flight was to leave from Monastir, so we needed to go North. At the same time, we had already visited the Sousse/Monastir area on a previous trip, and wanted to see something else. Also, I had read that there were few tourists who went to Sfax, and that the medina was therefore very authentic and untouched by the tourist trade. The activity workers at the hotel had looked amazed when I said we were going to Sfax. "What do you want to go there for? It's just an industrial town, no enterntainment." I laughed. Some people just didn't understand that part of the attraction of going abroad is seeing authentic life, not just having a tailor-made activity holiday at an international ghetto. Anyway, I explained how interesting the medina was for us, but he still looked a bit aghast! Also, the woman at reception asked us how we were getting to Sfax, and when I told her we were using a louage, she laughed. She obviously wasn't used to tourists living like locals.
After a good breakfast, we contacted the first English-speaking taxi-driver who had given us his card, and used his services to reach Houmt Souk. He drove us first to the shop, where we were able to buy Paul Eric's leather jacket - just 200 dinars (900 kroner) for a Lee Cooper, lined jacket. Wow! Then he dropped us off at the louage station, where after just a short wait, we got a lift all the way to Sfax, with no transfer. Wonderful! I had time to buy coffee, juice and biscuits while we waited for the other passengers. By the time we were in the queue for the ferry, we were already hungry for some lunch, and I nipped out and got a take-away of really good sandwiches which we were allowed to eat in the car. The journey was rather hairy, with several near misses as it seemed to me, but the worst experience was seeing two drivers fighting in the middle of the road. There had been some annoyance with over-taking, I assume, and the two of them went out of their vehicles and were hitting each other. Other traffic, including our own louage had to stop, and it seemed everyone tried to get as close as possible, not in neat queues behind each other, but but all bunched up. Soon we saw why, as everyone wanted to get in on the act, trying to separate these guys - both drivers and passengers! Well, there was more action that at the cinema!
For some reason, the car later stopped at the side of the road, and we had to get into another one, but at last we reached Sfax, and saw how the industrial city spread out over the coast. A short taxi-ride and we reached the planned Hotel Thyna, with its excellent location near to the main gate of the medina.
The lobby was beautiful, and this looked promising. I tried to speak French, but the female manager switched without problem to English. We took the lift up to our room, which didn't really live up to the expectations created by the attractive lobby. Still, it had a balcony overlooking the square, a TV, bathroom, and two comfortable beds. By this time, Paul Eric wasn't feeling well, having a bad stomach pain. After taking care of his needs, I left him to rest and took a little tour of the area. There were lots of shops around the square, and most of them were shoe-shops. It seemed to be organized like the medina, with separate areas for different types of shops, and this sure was shoe-land! The sales were on, so there were good prices, but I didn't really need shoes. I discovered the medina, and had a look around, but unfortunately it was shut, and there were few people. Still, it was kind of interesting to see the residential areas, without throngs of people.
I checked up on Paul Eric a few times, and then went out for dinner, to a place near the town hall/archeological museum which did wonderful kebab and salad at a low price.
The upstairs café was full of young people, watching Arab movies and songs on the big screen. I chatted to the English-speaking waiter,and then went out and found a good supermarket, where I could buy things that would be good for Paul Eric's stomach. I also found small charcoal bits that were supposed to be used for the sheesha pipes. I reasoned that they would probably surfice also for my incense-burner, with perfume I had bought in Kuwait. I had long since used up the charcoal for this. As I was standing in line, and whilst paying, I suddenly noticed a big, tall man staring at me. He smiled, and thinking he was just being polite, I smiled back. I was unnerved to find he continued to stare at me, and I wondered why. It was very uncomfortable. I tried not to look at him anymore, but when I left the shop, I was aware that he was following me. Walking fast, I made a quick dive into a small shopping mall, and found an exit in the opposite direction which he wouldn't expect, and luckily I seemed to have shaken him off! Man, did I miss Paul Eric!
Since Paul Eric wasn't too well, it was a quiet evening in the hotel room, reading and talking.
Where I stayed:
Hotel Thyna
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