Trip Start Oct 05, 2009
Trip End Oct 31, 2013

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Flag of Argentina  , Capital Federal District,
Friday, November 18, 2011

Journey: Port Iguazu to Buenos Aires

Weather: Fine and sunny; mid 20's

On return from Yacutinga to Buenos Aires, apart from the agonisingly long line at the airport's check-in counter at Port Iguazu airport the journey was smooth.

Angela had given us keys to return to San Telmo loft and this time we had the Casseros room with a share bathroom and like everthing else at The Loft it was great. We met Jazz and Lee an American couple newly arrived and they were friendly and thought they might join us for dinner but that didn't eventuate.

So Friday night saw the two of us at the corner of Peru at "Gran Parilla del Plata", a restaurant much praised by the tourist guides; sometimes these guides draw too much attention to a place and it becomes a tourist only venue. In this case there were quite a number of tourists but the food, service and ambience was great and we were happy that we got the last table at around 9pm- after that there was a queue at the entrance.

We enjoyed the company of a delightful Canadian couple, seated next to us who were in Buenos Aires for a month to improve their tango skills- tango was "invented" in Argentina and is alive and well! We told them we were looking for the real thing rather than a tourist cabaret show that was expensive and included dinner; they gave us a few tips.

After that delicious dining experience ( $50 with wine) it was back to San Telmo and bed!!


We had saved the ''best'' for last and spent the next few days exploring Palermo, Recoleta and  Retiro.

Saturday morning bright and early, we jumped onto a bus to Palermo, abot 10kms north west of San Telmo:

This area consists of Palermo Veijo, Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood etc and we spent a day wandering the streets. There are many parks, tree lined streets and it is the hip and happening bar and restaurant area. We noticed a young trendy crowd relaxing in the cafes and bars and small boutique shops selling designer fashion.

Originally we thought we might seek accommodation in this upmarket area, but we were so impressed with the reviews and photographs of San Telmo Loft that we abandoned this idea and it proved to be the correct decision!

We had coffee at a lovely cafe and stopped for lunch later at Las Cabras for a typical Argentinian barbecue. The restaurant was packed and the food was delicious and we lingered a while enjoying the ambience.

It was a sunny day and we certainly did a good deal of walking. A visit to one of BA's art galleries was next on the list.


The jacarandas are flowering and add a special soft colour to the streets.

MALBEC- the museum of modern art was a treat! We didn't end up visiting too many galleries which was a shame but heh! this is a big city. 

Having really loved the morning free walking tour, we decided to take the late afternoon one from Plaza San Martin "Aristocratic BA- Retiro" at 5pm and our guide was great; we learned a lot about the rich Eupean influence in this very elegant and expensive area of BA. Elaborate palaces, mansions, and apartments set on tree lined streets.

Some interesting snippets: Argentinians have very cheap private health insurance cover and can claim plastic surgery every 2 years and we walked by the lovely buildings housing the plasic surgeon practices. We were on the look out for implanted boobs (200 operations per week) and stretched faces after that.

The "peeing" tree was another interesting phenomenon- we had noticed that walking beneath these trees there was a spray of liquid and at first you think it's a bird or drizzle and then after you just wonder; well now we know that the tree expels a resin!!

At the end of the tour the sky opened and torrential rain delayed our bus trip back to our apartment.We sheltered under an empty market stall as best we could, but were very damp when we got there.

Angela, Lee and Jazz were there and we joined them for a dine-in barbecue meal until Clem and John, new guests  arrived and we all enjoyed some good conversation and red wine

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