Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (12 days)

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Trip Start Jan 22, 2009 Previous
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  Pokhara, Nepal
Saturday, May 16, 2009

* These are our daily journals from our Annapurna Trek 5/16/2009 - 5/27/2009.  They are quick notes to help us remember our fabulous journey.

Note:  3.3 feet = 1 meter

Day One:  A beautiful and sunny, blue sky day.  Only trekked for about 3 hours. Trail was fairly easy but still challenging and gave us a taste of what our days ahead would be like. Lots of stairs!! Saw men in the river fishing using electrical current to kill the fish and then nets to scoop them up.  Ganesh says this is illegal but people do it anyway. Stayed in a nice guesthouse with great mountain views, comfortable bed, and hot shower. Slept well and awoke early to morning calls from the rooster.  (Naipaul 1,765 meters to Birethanti 1,025 m to Hile 1,850m)

Day Two:  Left guesthouse in Hile at 8am. Ganesh said it would one of the tougher days and it was! At least we hope it doesn't get much tougher than today. Many, many stairs uphill. Lonely Planet says "3,280 wide stone steps" just today! Rained for a couple hours, cloudy, foggy and pretty cool. Watched kids in their uniforms walk to school. Amazed that they walk up and down mountains everyday (Sunday - Friday) starting at age 6. Ganesh said they walk about 2 hours each way!  As we continued our ascent the altitude and thin air became more apparent. I was dizzy, light headed and nauseous. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can be very serious but we read around 50% of trekkers experience symptoms to some degree. We stopped for lunch, rested and ate garlic soup (garlic is supposed to help AMS symptoms). Felt better. The 2nd half of our journey was exhausting!  We both felt poorly, probably from the altitude and from not being in the best of shape. Rain had stopped but it was still chilly and overcast. Although the clouds were disappointing for the views we knew today would have been a lot harder if it would have been hot and sunny. We shared the path with many mules carrying large heavy loads of supplies to guesthouses and a cute dog that ate mule poop.  There is mule, buffalo and cow poop everywhere. Got to watch our step. After a very, very, exhausting day we finally made it to our guesthouse in Ghorepani at 3:30pm.  Trekked for nearly 8 hours today.
 (Hille 1,850m  to Ghorepani - 2,874m)

Day three:  We set our alarms for 4 am this morning, met Ganesh by 430, and started our hike up to "Poonhill" before sunrise. Poonhill rises above the surrounding mountains providing a specatular 180 degree view of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges.  Our prayers were answered with clear blue skies. The 45 minute hike was straight up hill and took us 450 meters higher. It was more difficult than we had anticipated especially so early in the morning, on an empty stomach and with sore legs from the day before. The exhaustion was worth it as the sights on the top were energizing! We watched the sunrise from behind the mountains slowly engulfing the snow capped peaks and revealing the majestic beauty.  We went a bit picture crazy.  After taking in the views in the cold outdoors for about an hour we made our way back to the guesthouse to have a hearty breakfast and pack for our next destination. The weather and skies were perfect all day. The mountain views were breathtaking and the terrain was not too difficult...well, it had its moments. We descended 500 meters and realized that sometimes trekking downhill can be more challenging than going up. It is hard on the knees! With Clint's recent knee surgeries (only 7 months ago) his legs were especially shaky from fatigue.  We took today slow. Overall, a wonderful day!   (Ghorepani 2,874m  to Poon Hill 3,210m.  Gorepani 2,874m to Banthani 2,400m.  Banthani 2,400m  to Tadapani 2,630m)

Day Four:  Awoke around 6am after a restless night. The rooms had paper thin walls and we could hear every noise/movement from our neighbors and the outdoors.  A couple in their 60s and 70s were in the room next to us and the woman woke up in the middle of the night with a horrible headache (symptom of AMS). She was crying and very scared probably since we all have heard how AMS can be fatal. Made ma a little scared for her too. Hard to sleep. Luckily, she was feeling better by morning.  It was a cloudy morning but during the breaks in the clouds we could see the awesome Annapurna white cap mountain directly and closely in front of us. Also watched Langur monkeys playing in the trees (this is monkey we had never seen before). The first two hours was all downhill , we descended 500 meters. This again was tough on the joints! Our legs were also very sore from yesterday. We then trekked uphill about 40 minutes where we stopped for lunch.  The weather was hot and partly cloudy with a cool breeze. Lovely! I got my first leech bite on my ankle that bled like crazy.  At lunchtime we admired a sun rainbow  that made a complete circle around the sun.  The 2 hour trek after lunch went well. Combination of up, down and flat terrain. We stayed in Chomrong town.  Sipped tea and played cards with Annapurna I and Fishtail snow capped mountain in clear and close view.  Got one of the most amazing foot and leg massage that I have ever had in my life from a local guy.  Slept well! 
(Tadapani 2,630 to Chomrong 1,950m)   

Day Five:  Chomrong to Doban.  Trekked 4 hours down and uphill before lunch. Saw lots of goats, buffalo, cows and mules today. Weather was cloudy but nice. My knees hurt horribly!! In so much pain it was bringing tears to my eyes, especially going downhill. After lunch, ibuprofen, tiger balm, ace bandage and knee cream, I was feeling a little better. Hiked along rocky paths through moist, green jungle. Rained a little. Arrived in Doban in afternoon and relaxed!  Watched another Langur monkey in the trees across the river from us. During dinner watched a documentary on Nepal and Annapurna Sanctuary trek.  Chatted with a guy from Switzerland about Africa travels. Praying for NO pain tomorrow! 
(Chomrong 1,950m to Dovan 2,505m)

Day six:  Left Dovan at 8am.  Ascended 700-800 meters in less than 3 hours.  Lots of large rocks and boulders to climb over. Crossed several small bridges and rivers/streams on rocks. Views of rocky cliffs, cascade waterfalls, strong river below us.  Could feel the altitude. Both got headaches and ordered garlic soup again. Decided to stay in Deurali instead of moving on. Started pouring rain so it was good we stayed. Very chilly! Clint and I napped and cuddled up to stay warm. Read my book "Grapes of Wrath"...amazing book. Played yet another game of Gin Rummy 500.  Relaxed. Nursed headache and the nasty chest/sinus cold I've developed.  Rained heavy during the night. Awoke to lots of fog and clouds but no headache.
(Dovan 2,505m to Himalaya 2,873m to Deurali 3,230m )

Day Seven:  Left Deurali at 7am. Arrived in Machhapuchre Base Camp (MBC) at nearly 9am Ordered more garlic soup to help with our headache and dizziness. My sinuses are burning! Altitude and sinus problems are not a good combo.  Still, excited to finally reach the top. Made it to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) at 11am. Yeah, we did it!  The last stretch was difficult mainly due to thin air.  Very foggy so couldn't see much  of anything around us. Big boulders, no trees but purple flowers everywhere.  Walked over snow and ice from previous avalanches. Scenery reminded us of scenes from Lord of the Rings.  Cold! Prayed for clear sky in the morning so we could admire the mountain tops all around us.  Ate a garlic, tomato, Yak cheese pizza for dinner. We reek of garlic! Walked around Base Camp and visited a small memorial site with Tibetan prayer flags and memorial plaques of people who had died in the mountains. Played a very long game of Hearts with other trekkers.  Our porter, Krishna, got very sick.  Had horrible stomach pains and fever.  We were worried about him.  Still feeling affects of altitude ourselves. Cuddled close in the night and wore every layer of clothing we brought. Slept in hat and gloves. I awoke with racing heart. Probably from the altitude. Rained hard all night. 
(Deurali 3,230m to MBC 3,703m to ABC 4,130m).

Day Eight:  Awoke at 5am to try to see mountain views at sunrise. Unfortunately, still raining and foggy and cloudy. Got to see a very quick glimpse of the snow capped mountains all around us before they disappeared behind the fog once again. Boo! We were a bit disappointed but what can ya do?  Decided to begin our descent after it was clear that the weather was not going to change. Krishna was also still sick and I was still not feeling well. Weather was cold!  We bundled up and walked through wet and muddy paths. Streams were higher and stronger so it was more difficult to cross over them on the slippery rocks. Trekked downhill up and over rocks for nearly 4 hours! My knees were causing me so much pain with each step down. I feel like a 90 year old woman.  Stopped at Himalaya for lunch (2,900m) and then walked downhill more to Bamboo (2345m).  Walked downhill 1200 meters today! Ouch.  Stayed at a lovely guesthouse with hot solar powered showers. Exhausted, we went to bed early. Killed a gigantic centipede.  Slept well. Awoke to blue, clear skies...a day too late.  (ABC 4,130m to Bamboo 2,345m)

Day Nine:  Left Bamboo at 8am. Cool air, and blue sky. Good Views of Fishtail and Annapurna III mountain tops. Walked through the moist Bamboo Forest. Arrived in Chomrong after many, many, many stairs up and down. Planned to just have lunch in Chomrong and then continue on but our porter, Krishna, who had gone ahead of us this morning, was very sick when we arrived in Chomrong. He still had a fever and looked awful! Decided it would be better to stay to take care of Krishna.  Watched a thunderstorm roll in. Played cards and listened to the rain.  (Bamboo 2.345m to Chomrong 1,950m)

Day Ten:  Woke up to more rain. Laid in bed and listened to it on our rooftop. By 730am it had stopped and we had blue skies once again.  Enjoyed the views with instant coffee.  Krishna feeling better today thankfully. Said his fever broke during the night. Left Chomrong and walked downhill to Jhinu. Only took an hour and 15 minutes.  This is where the hot springs are so we decided to stay here overnight to give Krishna more rest and give us some good hot spring time. Had a tasty lunch, made a cribbage board on paper and played with pieces of dried coconut as our "pegs". Walked down a steep hill to the hot springs which were right along a roaring river.  Soaking our sore bodies felt great!  We were the only trekkers down there and shared the pools with Jhinu locals. Rained again later at night. Saw enormous toads! Krishna decided to head home the following day so we said our farewells to him.   (Chomrong 1,950m to Jhinu 1700m) 

Day 11: Woke up at 6am. Started trek at 745. Nice, sunny, blue sky day with cool breeze. Trail was nice! Lots of flat (comparatively) terrain today. Views of terraces, flowering trees and bushes, villages and farms. Walked past many corn fields, waterfalls, and over bridges.  Arrived in Tolka (1,775m) for lunch at 11:30am. Wet with sweat. Hot and humid today. More uphill than down which is much better on the knees, but harder on the lungs.  After Tolka we had to climb a very long, steep hill. Clint practically jogged up but I was struggling a bit. Took about an hour and a half. After hill, the rest of the trekking was easy. Made it to our destination, Pothana at 315pm. Had tea, took showers, and relaxed. No others travelers were at our guesthouse, just us. Another big thunderstorm during the night. Very loud on our tin roof!
(Jhinu 1700m to Tolka 1775m to Pothana 1900m)

Day 12:  Our last day!  Rain had stopped by morning. Blue sky again. Left by 745am. Nice, easy walk down.  Good views of Pokhara, the lake, mountains and villages. Made it to the bottom at Phedi by 10:30am.  We made it!!!! Waited for a taxi and celebrated with coca-cola and potato chips. On the taxi ride to Pokhara we saw many farmers hard at work. Many plowing land with cows and wooden plow. Happily made it to our hotel!  Enjoyed a nice dinner by the lake with Ganesh and celebrated with a beer.  Can't believe we did it.
(Pothana 1900m to Phedi 1000m)


*For future travelers to Nepal*
If you are looking for a reliable company in Nepal to use for trekking and other excursions we highly recommend using:
 Asahi Treks and Expedition LTD.
 P.O. Box Thamel Kathmandu Nepal.
www.asahitreks.com
Contact: Ganesh Adhikari (our guide) at:  Heroganesh@hotmail.com  He would be happy to customize a trek to fit your needs and would even pick you up from the airport and book accommodations for you if needed.

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