No one can out-Alex you: Delphi

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  Kalambaka, Thessaly, Greece
Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Delphi was perhaps the most sacred site in ancient Greek culture, and the seat of its most famous oracle. Anyone who wanted a prophecy about anything major they wanted to do - such as a king planning to conquer a huge empire - went there to ask how it would go. The prophesying was done by a priestess named the Pythia, who spoke after inhaling the gases from a crack in the rock. Her answers were often cryptic, and needed much care in the interpreting. The king Kroesus, for example, received the answer that if he conducted the invasion he was planning, "a great empire will be destroyed." Terrific, he thought, and off he went with his army. The oracle spoke true, and a great empire was indeed destroyed - but it was his own.

The town, the site and the museum that shelters the best and most delicate treasures (as at all Greek archaeological sites) are perched on the steep side of a mountain, which makes both for spectacular views and for it being necessary to watch where you are walking

The view through our window

. It also makes for lots of climbing, so if you're not already in good shape, expect your legs to ache the next morning if you explore the entire site. Again, it is extensive, with a theatre, gymnasium, stadion and a couple of major temples, one to Apollo, the main God of the sanctuary, and one to Athena. There are also dedicated buildings, with which the Greek city-states, and eventually individuals, vied with each other for sumptuousness in their devotion to the Gods. A fairly large one was raised by Krateros, one of Alexander's generals.

Delphi was considered a sacred place as far back as Mykenaian times, as the finds of Mykenaian votive Goddess figurines attest. Historically there is a strong connection between Philip and Delphi, due to his involvement in the Third Sacred War (356-346 BCE), allied with Thebes against the Phokians.

Before starting his campaign, Alexander naturally went to the oracle for a prophecy. Only one problem: it was closed the day he arrived. The Pythia only did her thing on the seventh day of each month, which was sacred to Apollo.

Not willing to let a little thing like sacred scheduling stop him, the story goes, Alexander demanded that the Pythia prophesy for him, and even manhandled her in the process

Treasury of the Athenians

. "No one can resist you!" she angrily snapped. He interpreted that as the prophecy, made copious offerings and departed.

I like to think that, since his name literally means "defender of men," that what she actually said was "No one can defend against you," so that in Greek it would sound something like, "No one can out-Alex you." I'll have to see how exactly Plutarch, since I believe it was him who recounted this story, worded it.

BTW, the hotel we stayed at in Delphi, the Acropole, was the only one so far that's inspired me to shoot a walking video through it, culminating in the stunning view from our window.  I'll post it when I can.  Also I will soon post on "things you should know about Greek hotels" and "tips for beating the heat when travelling in a sweltering Greek summer."

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

Treasury of the Athenians from above	The altar of the Temple of Apollo	Remaining columns of the Temple of Apollo	Temple of Apollo from above
Theatre, from above	Olive tree near gymnasion	Omphalos -- the navel of the world.	Castalian Spring
The Charioteer, rear view	His expression makes it.	Model of Delphi in classical times

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