The Pearl of the Adriatic

Trip Start Aug 31, 2007

Trip End Apr 19, 2008

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Flag of Croatia Dubrovnik, Croatia
Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Did you know that the fountain pen was invented by a Croatian? And the first parachute? Did you know that the country pegs its currency to the Euro, but at different rates in summer and winter so it costs more to visit in summer and the government can stockpile hard currency? I still can't afford this place in winter. Lucky I didn't show up in July. I have traveled from Prcanj, Crna Gore (Montenegro) to Hrvatska (Croatia). I knew when I started this trip in Estonia, I would begin with too many vowels ad end with too few. Fortunately, most words do have extra vowels, they just don't write them. It's still confusing. However, I am now in Dubrovnik, Renaissance maritime power and easily pronounced city, and it's gorgeous.

Tourist Central in July, Dubrovnik's UNESCO old town borders on deserted at the end of November. I see maybe ten other tourists the whole time I'm there, though that's certainly more than I've seen anywhere else in the last two weeks

The Main Promenade

. Dubrovnik was an important trading city from 1205 (when the Venetians felt sufficiently threatened by it to bring it under their authority for 153 years) until 1806 (when it was captured by Napoleon). During 600 years of peace, less a devastating earthquake in 1667, the city prospered, erecting massive walls o protect itself, and filling its streets with white-stone, red-tile-roofed houses. However, during fighting between the Croats and Serbs in the early 90s, the city was repeatedly shelled, a strategically pointless move that raised international outrage and damaged 68% of the historic center's buildings. Fortunately, it has been fifteen years since the shelling and he buildings have now been restored as faithfully as possible.

The Dubrovnik of today is charming, there's just no other way to put it. Spotless white streets wend orderly paths among centuries-old homes and boats rest on peaceful turquoise waters, the sun shining down over all, casting dark shadows on the narrowest of walkways. I visit a collection of churches and walk along the old harbour, my nose tingling in the salty air. I check out two fountains, part of an old water conveyance system, and snap a picture of the Christmas tree in the main square. The most wonderful time of the year approaches. On a more sobering note, I fin a display on the violence of the 90s, with photos of the fighters and those killed, many younger than I

Part of the Old Water Distribution System

. The former Yugoslav states are the first places I've visited where a war has occurred in my lifetime, and my experiences encountering bits and pieces of that war and reconciling them with my childhood memories have hit home more than any visit to a World War II memorial.

The final attraction I visit in Dubrovnik is the city wall. With a ten dollar admission fee, I nearly give them a pass, bu Lonely Planet said the visit would be a highlight, and the more I saw of the walls, the more I suspected my guide was right. Thicker on the land side than the sea, he walls tower up to 25m high and a 2 km walk encircles the entire old town. Views of the town and sea are stunning, and having time to kill before my bus to Mostar, I linger on them for three hours, soaking up the sun, eating lunch, and reading my book. There is little wind and with the sun beating down, it is deliciously warm.

Eventually, I descend to catch my ride to the bus station. As I had gotten off the bus the night before, Nikola Burum had asked if I needed a place to stay. Very professional, he had a flier with pictures and a map, and I agreed to stay at his place. The apartment I got was a steal for 20 Euros, clean and new, with free fruit, candy, wine, and homemade liquor. Accommodation in the old town is prohibitively expensive for a backpacker, but Nikola gave me two free rides there during my stay and took me to the bus station in the afternoon, too. I would highly recommend him.