The Best Hostel Yet

Trip Start Aug 31, 2007
1
46
90
Trip End Apr 19, 2008


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow

Flag of Bulgaria  , Veliko Tarnovo,
Tuesday, November 6, 2007

One of my favorite parts of arriving in new towns in the dark is waking up in the morning and seeing where I am. Waking up in Veliko Tarnovo, I know without a doubt that I am no longer in Romania. The town has a distinct Mediterranean feel: white plaster houses, grape vines, windy cobblestone streets. I can't wait to explore.

Settled by ancient Thracians over 5000 years ago, Veliko Tarnovo was the Bulgarian capital from 1185 to 1393. I being with the Tsarevets Fortress, sprawling across a hill on the edge of town and surrounded on three sides by a river, rather like the fort in Kamyanets-Podilsky, Ukraine. Today, the fort is mostly rubble, but enough of the foundations remain to make it a good place to wander. Besides, the setting, among beautiful hills, is spectacular. At the top of the fort, I visit the main church. Very Orthodox looking from the outside, inside a history of Bulgaria has been painted in a very modern style The Fortress
The Fortress
 . Long, weary looking figures in red, black, and gray abound. I rather enjoy the inside, it's a nice change and surprise, but many other people complain they find it ruins the atmosphere of the rest of the fort.

It is a warm day and after the fort, I head down to the river to see two churches I have spied from the heights. Unfortunately, one is locked and the other wants a $4 admission fee. It didn't look that spectacular, so I admire both from the outside.

Heading towards the main town, the streets are deserted. I understand that it's Tuesday afternoon, but it seems there should be a few more people around. I admire the carved patterns on the sides of many buildings and walk down to the river once more to look at a statue of four rulers on their horses. I'm not sure who the rulers are, but their statues are incredibly life-like, steads rising and turning, the men barely remaining seated.

My main sightseeing complete, I grabbed a banana (see, I'm eating fruit!) at the market before heading back to the hostel. The Hostel Mostel if probably the best hostel I have stayed at this trip. Housed in a 170 year old building, the owner has spent the last two years restoring it to the wonderful place it is today. It's the sort of place you could get stuck at for a week. Each morning, Stan prepares a good breakfast and in the evening, there's a light dinner. I'll have to come back in the summer to make full use of the terrace and barbecue, though.
Slideshow Print this entry