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Raucous Riga
Entry 13 of 89 | show all | print this entry |
I have met the Captain Jack Sparrow of Latvia. He is actually a Brit via Australia via the Philippines, but I met him in Riga, so that's what we'll go with. I spent the day exploring Riga's old town with my dizzying friend and a couple of his buddies. Captain Jack, as we shall call him, had trouble walking in a straight line (whether drunk or sober) and seemed barely able to stand still long enough to take a picture of an art nouveau building, a church spire, or the latest Latvian beauty walking by, making for a rather entertaining afternoon of sightseeing.
With a population of 760,000, Riga feels like a city and smells like one too, a slight acidic taste on your tongue from all the fumes, perhaps a little burning in the back of your throat. The city's train station sems to go on forever, but once outside, navigation is not difficult, especially if the majority of explorations are confined to the compact old town.
After a hearty Latvian lunch (the boys wouldn't stop raving about the steak) we headed up the spire of St. Peter's church. A lift takes you to the top, so minimal effort is required after such a filling meal, just a $4 ticket. However, don't think this ticket entitles you to actually see the church, instead, a lady will escort you directly to the elevator, yelling at you loudly in Russian should you try to sit in one of the pews for a few minutes of quiet reflection. Visiting the House of God requires a different ticket.
Nonetheless, the views from the spire were stunning and gave a good orientation of the old town. Riga sits on the Daugava river, with the old town being on the river and the rest of the city stretching away behind it. The old town, on UNESCO's World Heritage list, was mostly built in the 16th century and is now painted in pastels, much like Tallinn's, with church spires and monuments popping up between buildings on winding, weaving streets.
St. Peter's was followed by the Dome Cathedral on the other half of the town, the largest church in the Baltics, and then the Museum of Occupation in Latvia. The museum was quite interesting and very thorough. We spent two hours there, learning about the Soviet's conquest of Latvia, how it was then taken by the Nazi's in 1941, how they were treated as liberators, and then how the Soviet's regained control of the country at the end of the war.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent wandering town, snaping shots of art nouveau architecture. We made it down to the river and went wading, found a statue commemorating the founding of Riga, and wound up eating sushi, doing shots, and sipping on rather strong long island iced teas around 4:30. In Captain Jack's opinion, it's never to early to start drinking.
The nights in Riga were also filled with drinking and clubbing. Casper, a Swedish hostel employee took us to a different place each night and we partied 'til dawn - literally. I learned that Hollywood's portrayal of European clubs is fairly accurate: strobe lights, smoke machines, and techno. However, it appears that wearing flip flops to a bar in Riga is liable to get you kicked out or denied entry, so I will have to find another pair of shoes, as I doubt hiking boots are acceptable attire either.
A final distraction formulated by the Friendly Frank's Fun Hostel (think I got those F's in the right order, it was everything a hostel should be and for $10/night, I would never stay anywhere else in Riga) was gun shooting. Nine guys and myself (story of my life) went to an old Soviet bunker firing range to shoot glocks, pump-action shotguns, and Kalashnikovs, better known as AK-47s. Most of the guys selected targets featuring a villian holding hostage a damsel in distress - and proceeded to put far more bullets in the damsel than the villian. Having a target with only a bad guy, I did not have this problem, and did a respectable job of getting my man.
Riga's Prague Factor: Riga has a lot going for it: a river, a lived in old town, beautiful churches, and restaurant decked squares. The good parts of Prague. But it also has the bad: too many drunken Brits over for a cheap drinking holiday. This makes Rigans unbelievably rude towards all foreigners and puts a real damper on visiting. That said, I suspect Prague has a similar downside, so we'll put the PR at 92%.
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