Dirt, Donkeys, and Lefts

Trip Start Aug 20, 2007
Trip End Jul 04, 2008

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Flag of Peru  ,
Thursday, October 4, 2007

I arrived to gloomy skies and cool temperatures. Jumped in a taxi driven by a short squat man named Teofelo. Friendly guy gave some of the lowdown about Lima in the springtime. It`s always cloudy and cool. hurray! I missed Panama instantly. While in Panama I picked up a card with a recomended hostel from my buddy Chris Okill in Panama. 30 soles (ten bucks) later I am at the entrance of my new shelter for the next couple of days till my Peruvian connection, Ignacio Bedoya, can free himself from the demands of the man. The place is nice with a restraunt bar in the back with lots of music, pool, and ping pong. They also have free internet which is convenient. My dorm room, however, smelled like some jocks after a long sweaty week hike. Not to worry though a strong musk never hurt anyone. After a couple of days exploring the barrios of Lima and drinking tons of yogurt.(Lima's Metro market has a whole isle set aside for drinking yogurts). Ignacio finally showed up to take me out of my bouquette of a room. He took me a to ceviche spot. Ceviche is a local specialty of raw seafood "cooked" in lime and lemon juice and spices. It was really tasty. I did enjoy it, andI will have it again.
Full of creatures from  the sea we drove down the Peruvian coast a bit. In the gloom the dirt hills and mountains of coastal Peru look lunar. No plants unless planted by man. Baja California looks like a jungle compared to the Peruvian coast. After checking a few spots we decided on one.spot called Punto Viejo. It was so hard getting in the freezing water coming from the tepid waters of Panama. I couldn┤t get my groove. I missed Panama even more, but Ignacio`s hospitality made up for it. He took me out for a night on the town at a chill little spot  in Lima. Kind of wierd scene with lots of bearded men and girls wearing Bohemian style clothes. I guess it was Bohemian. They called it that, yet. I really don`t even know what Bohemian style is. I guess it's similar to grunge crossed with Rasta. Whatever it is the girls are hairy.
The following Sunday brought the long desired sun. The first day all winter they told me. We went for another surf at Ignacio's stomping spot called Punta Hermosa. A heavey shifting right with lots of wind on it. I was caught on the inside for what seemed like twenty waves and ended up paddling to exhaustion. I made one wave and went in. Too tired to really care. It was the worst surf I have had in a long time. I was still missing the surf scene of Panama.

After working out a Peruvian travel plan in my head I decided to spend the week way up north surfing a point break. ╠ggy gave me the info and put me in a taxi to the bus station in downtown Lima. Boards in tow with my backpack I bought my ticket for 90 soles (30 bucks) to Talara an 18 hour trip north. Not to worry though I booked it first class. Nothing but the best for this guy. My seat was on the first floor of a two story monster bus with big reclining seats and a t.v. right in your face. I bought my yogurt drink and chicken sandwich and settled in for my ride leaving at 6 pm. It started off nice and comfy just listening to the music and enjoying the a.c. when they put on this horrible movie starring some annoying girl and Micheal Keaton. He was the President of the U.S. and hs daughter was going off to college. I wasn't listening to it. My headphones where blasting my iPod, but I couldn┤t look away because the t.v. was right in my face. Well needless to say I was glad it was Micheal Keaton's last movie. RIP. Horrible of me to think, but the yogurt was giving me horrible stomach cramps. Maybe because I am lactose intolerant, or maybe the movie just sucked that much. After a while I got tired of crawling over the lady on the isle to get to the bathroom. I just pretended I was sleeping and depressurized.
18 hours later I was at the bus station in Talara jumping into a little motocarro (trike with a light fiber glass covering) telling Pascal the 5 foot driver that I want to go Lobitos. It's supposed to be a half hour away. Pascal`s moto went 15 mph tops. It stalled going up little hills. We took an alternate route due to a washed out road through the desert and got stuck. I found myself pushing this little moto and the little driver, Pascaul, through some loose sand pits and up a hill. Then I was dead lifting it out of a hole to get it back on the sand track. It's all that makes me love travelling in the middle of nowhere. An hour and a half later we pulled into this little town with ghost buildings from a bygone oil era. A few houses offered up rooms and Iggy had told me that Fanucho's was a good choice.
Fanucho looked like the old guy who terrorized the Smurfs and acted accordingly. Not to worry though the waves there were good. Long, long lefts with offshore winds all day with not too many people. Days of surfing till exhaustion followed my arrival. Naps, feeds and more surfing till exhaustion. At night the power usually went out,so I  read by candlelight until there was no more candle.
The long weekend brought lots of crowds from Lima. They have a bad habit of paddling to the inside of you and snaking you when you take off on the set waves. They look at you like you aren┤t from here. This is our wave. Well Lima is 18 hours to the south. It would be like me being a surfer from SoCal driving up to Oregon and claiming to an Australian in the line up that I was a local. Stupid if you ask me. Not to worry though: I caught a few waves anyway. I then decided to surf an uncrowded little point called Piscinas, which means pool. I can see why. It was like a little wave park. Catch a 50 meter long wave to the beach and walk  back around to the point and then just jump in and catch the next wave. It was a circuit of joy. It was a great way to end the northern Peru surf trip.
The 18 hour bus ride back down to Lima was bearable. Lots of lively spanish music videos from the 80s and 90s with lots of powerful hairstyles to entertain me as I cruised along in my reclining seat. I made it to Lima in the morning and had an interesting taxi ride back to my hostel. The driver told me his story how he had seen a UFO when he was taking a leak outside up around a town called Tumbes. He also told me that he was a bit drunk when he saw it. He even drew me a map of where he saw it with a pen he borrowed from a police officer who was strolling by. He really wanted me to get the whole story. Little things like that make me love travelling. Just random events seem to enrich the whole event.

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suurge808 on

Lets see some pics!!

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