A memorable trek back to Darchen.

Trip Start Aug 19, 2006

Trip End Sep 13, 2006

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Where I stayed

Darchen

(Hong Kong hotels)

Flag of China Darchen, China
Thursday, August 31, 2006

I see is what my limited vision makes me to and nothing beyond. Masters say you can see beyond, only if you have attained high degree of spirituality. For lesser humans like me whatever I see I treasure. And thus thinking, I wake up, quietly meditating on our circumambulation of Mount Kailash. Dreamily I go through the mountain trail over and over again and relive those moments. The panoramic view of the rugged landscape is deeply etched in my memory that I can recall it with uncanny vividness. I explore its valleys and gorges, bare mountains with snow or without, each bend of the mountain trail, its steep ascent, precipitous descent, boulders, granite walls of rock, the streams of sparkling clear water with beautifully sculpted round pebbles within its depths meandering through the valley, the waterfalls cascading in whiff of sprays, the noisy rattling stones falling from hill tops, the echo of the mantras reverberating through the mountains and so on, as though viewing an endless reel of film. I thank the almighty for His grace in making all this possible

Mt Kailash (southern face)

. My feet, especially the toes are sore; entire body is stiff and aching; all the cells are working hard to keep the body parts intact; I am keeping up a brave front and treading on like a robot but I seem to be unmindful of all this. Perhaps mind is too tired and is disconnected from the comforts of the body.

We bid adieu to our camp,Zong Zerbu, early in the morning. It is the most pleasant trek of about 13 km on almost level grounds in Zon-Chu valley. Changing scenery is fascinating. Each bend is full of thrilling grandeur. The gently rolling hills glow with beautiful colours of all imaginable hues. Under the shadows of these hills are green meadows. Sheep and yaks are dotted all over them nibbling nutritious fodder in the warmth of the bright sunshine. The sky looks white and empty. It's a clear day but for a few wafer-thin clouds floating towards the horizon. A soft cool air wafts past, whispering sweetly in the ear.

Not very far from our path is a family of mountain-jack (member of weasel family) enjoying their morning frolics and running about in their peaceful playfields. They do not take notice of us in the beginning but latter, seeing the procession of our caravan, seem disturbed and immediately hide inside their burrows.Soon after however, some warily peep out to see if we are still around

Parkha Plains

.

Zon-chu is a lively stream with clear emerald green waters and is our constant company. The entire trek is indeed a trekker's paradise.

Darchen is in sight at last. The low-hills converge to form a bottle neck for the River Zon-chu which kept us company so far. It emerges and fans out in the Barkha plains in many rills over a large area which joins Tarchen-chu and La-chu to finally drain in to Rakshas-Tal. Rakshas- Tal is the destination of all the streams originating from mount Kailash. From here we have the grand view of Barkha plains extending from east to west as far as eyes can see, intercepted by web of meandering streams. It looks green from this height and is bordered by khaki hillocks gradually rising to the silvery snows of Gurla-Mandhata peaks. The emerald green Rakshas-tal in the middle adds up to the romantic view of the expansive landscape which Devine Nature has so beautifully set. Mt Kailash peeps from behind the hills as if to say here I am again.

Ashtpad
In the evening we set out for Ashtapad by Toyota cruiser. In Jain literature Kailash is called Ashtapada

Secred 'Mani' Mantra

. The first Jain Tirthankar is said to have attained nirvana in Kailash. Ashtapada is about 12 km by motor road which terminates by the edge of a stream and from there we climb a very steep path of over one kilometre.

As we reach the top of the climb we are rewarded with a very close and spectacular view of the southern face of Mt Kailash. Sparkling with brilliant radiance it looks awesome, remote and forbidden. It literally takes away the breath as our eyes meet the grandeur of the setting. Ice-cap of Mt Kailash stands on the pedestal of bald colourfully banded rocks. As sun sets, snows on Mt Kailash wear the colour of the setting sun and the golden hue is tender, softer, and much more alluring than the sight of sun setting behind the hills. Here we are at a height of about 16000 ft. and it is extremely cold.We perform puja and return to Darchen.

As evening sets in the sky is ablaze with riot of colours. The hills too are afire with the glow. Far away the lake is red as sun rays fall on it. The entire scene enthrals the heart and imagination of the beholder. Gradually the grand magic show of amazing sunset comes to an ends and as the night falls the stars begin to rule the sky. This is how, I muse, the sun says goodnight to the earth and its inhabitants. It is indeed a grand finale of the Kailash parikrama which nature seems to have set for us at the end of fourteenth day of our yatra.