A passage through Dolma La Pass
Trip Start
Aug 19, 2006
1
15
21
Trip End
Sep 13, 2006
ZongZerbu,
China
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
To day we have to traverse 23 km, of which steep climb to Dolma La Pass is 6 km. Dolma La is the highest point (5550 m or 18600 ft) we touch during our entire journey. It is most difficult phase of the parikrama. We start quite early heavily clad in warm clothing as it is icy cold all through this trek. We walk for about 500 meters along right bank of stream La-Chu then leave it to climb a steep and narrow mountain trail for about half a kilometre. The trail is about one to two feet wide bordered with huge granite boulders. We then ford Polung-Chu, a glacial stream and continue the steep ascent. This brings us into the Valley of Death
A Cairn Of Mani Mantra
. We reach a spot called Shiva-tshal where it is believed Yama, the Lord of Death judges the travellers of their worthiness. The old accumulated sins are shed here and then move on anew. The Tibetan tear their clothes, throw them around, cause injury to their person and draw blood as an offering to Lord Yama. They also pretend to be dead and lie down flat on the ground, motionless. The torn pieces of clothing lie scattered all over in the area. We now enter another valley. After a level walk for about 500 m we climb another very steep path similar to the ones we have already negotiated but more treacherous and hazardous. There is no route or trail worth the name. Slowly we cross one huge boulder after another. At long last we reach top of the climb, the Dolma-La. Here we are greeted by a short spell of snowfall. It was a surreal and awesome moment. The Tibetans believe that the trail is guarded by their goddess Dolma. It is she who made us to cross over to the top. We therefore, pray to the benevolent goddess.
I did not have the heart to make the entire distance of steep and narrow trail on foot. I did walk as much as the easy gradient allowed me and the rest I did on a sturdy Tibetan pony while my eager eyes took in the rugged landscape, the snows, the glaciers, and the source of pretty La-Chu. Ascending the climb on foot is indeed a tough test of faith and determination which some of the yatris displayed.
From Dolma La a majestic view of Mt Kailash can be had provided it is not hidden by clouds
A trek to Dolma-la
. Today it is veiled. Visually there is no snow anywhere near the pass but it may all be there under the mass of giant boulders. The hill we just crossed over is the hill of salvation and is marked by a natural rock which symbolizes Tara, the goddess of beauty. Arya-Tara or Tara-Devi or simply Tara is female Buddha as described in Tibetan Buddhist literature. The rock is bedecked with flags and festoons. We also tie a prayer flag and light incense sticks at its base.The temperature here at 5550 meters is near freezing point. It is extremely cold. At such heights icy-cold blizzards are known to strike any time without warning and also may cause breathing problems because of rarefied air. We feel its effect but it is not distressing.
Here the majestic hills and beautiful valleys, rocks, boulders and moraine and snow, all exist in peaceful tranquillity and primordial serenity, playing with the wind, flushed with and glowing in the warm sunrays or getting wet in the rain. We are the only intruders amidst such unalloyed rugged beauty in search of peace, happiness and blessings of Lord Shiva. And all of us receive them as the Master allowed us to be amid His presence in His abode.
And so after a short stop at Dolma-La we descend on steep slope to enter into another valley. Here slightly off the route, over 50 meters deep down the slopes is the emerald green, an oval shaped lovely lake called Gauri-Kund. It is generally covered with a sheet of ice all the year round
Lamchu River
. This time however, the lake is not frozen. It is the highest lake at 18400 feet and has a maximum depth of 80 ft. It is a holy lake where Hindus believe goddess Parvati takes bath. We now are on gentle slopes made up of huge boulders over underlying glacier. The trail is broken, there is no well defined route; in fact there is nothing to deserve the name of a path, even a trail. It's a huge field of giant broken rocks. We have to ford marshy grounds or walk over a mass of loose and tumbling stones or boulders under which a brook gurgles or glacier flows. Without a guide one is likely to be lost in these bizarre conditions. We follow the guide, trudge on wearily, some times jumping over the boulders. Finally we reach an almost level ground which opens up in wide valley with giant rock pieces scattered all over. Walking further we suddenly come to a steep descent. From the top of the descent I can see a tent on the wide green level grounds by the edge of a nameless wild stream deep down. After negotiating these slopes we finally land on flatter grounds and rest by the stream. Fording several serpentine streams and walking through marshy areas and heap of boulders we enter the valley of River Lamchu which is very wide and has extensive verdant meadows. I feel elated at being amidst such pleasing surroundings, especially after the arduous slopes and a chaotic scene of disorder. Herd of sheep, yak and horses can be seen grazing in these meadows.
Lamchu Valley
It is very pleasant and enjoyable walk on almost level ground. It is an enchanting valley and much greener than the valley of La-chu. finally we reach our camp Zong Zerbu, in the late afternoon. It is in a beautiful site and idyllic location near the river bank at a height of 4790 m. It has very comfortable lodging on rolling grounds. In front of the camp is a hillock known as Garur (eagle) because it looks like a huge bird lying with wings spread out and with the face looking heavenwards, intently watching the cloudless blue sky. Nearly a 100 meter climb from the campsite is Zuthul Phuk Gompa.
Through out in this valley as also in La-chu valley, we saw the Tibetan sacred mantra, "Om Mani Padme Hum", etched on rocks, rock pieces, stone and slabs or painted at vantage point on hill side rocks. We saw huge heap of such engraved slabs, like cairn of stones at many places by the road side. This mantra literally means jewel (of creation) is in a lotus. All Tibetans, monks, men and women, chant this mantra continuously, while walking, sitting or travelling and turn around their Prayer Wheel which contains this sacred mantra inside it or engraved upon it. This mantra finds place of honour every where; in holy places, in monasteries, in prayer flags and in all important places.
So far I was in a state of perpetual enchantment, moving on and on as if in a trance. Now I am completely drained of energy. Fatigue takes over the body, as soon as the worry and tension of achieving the objective is over
Zong Zobru Camp
. The continuous chattering of the mind has temporarily stopped. It is vacant and empty, now calm, in a state of thoughtlessness and tranquillity; it is free and detached. And there is only happiness and joy that permeates within, as if awakened from deep slumber. It is as if doors of the mind's dark channel have been opened to allow dazzling beam of light to enters ... time stands still; there is no room for artificiality; the smile is genuine; thought are pure; duality ends, of pain and pleasure, of happiness and sorrow...the ego melts and you are in a ocean of happiness and bliss. The soul is in rapturous song. Once again you are like a child in the lap of nature; a child who is thrilled when the hills respond as he loudly talks to them, a child who plays hide and seek with the twinkling stars, a child who demands from the moon to cook 'kheer' for his desert, and a child who only gives sweet, innocent baby smile.And I had a glimpse of such a sublime feeling... a feeling as if a burden is lifted from the mind... as if clouds covering the hills dissolve and lofty mountain shines in all its glory. The blue meandering streams continue to invite me... the dizzy heights still haunt me. I wish, I could live the moment over again. I crave for the encounter one more time... some times ...some where, once again.
Joy and happiness written in every face, for all of us have made the most difficult trek look easy by His grace on the 13th day of our yatra.
