Getting Schooled at Climbing School
Trip Start
Jun 15, 2008
1
5
14
Trip End
Aug 16, 2008
Marblemount,
Washington,
United States
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Days one through four involved various rock climbs in the North Cascades. On day two, the van broke down on a one lane bridge in the middle of nowhere. We had to get out and push it to the other side. Fun antics. While we waited on the tow truck, some nice lady who owned a farm nearby invited us to wait at her house, play ping pong, and pick her fruit. She even made us lemonade. Super nice. On day four, Ben led Kirk and me up the Early Winter Spire, a nice climb up to a rocky point looking out over the Washington Pass area of the North Cascades.
Days five through eight involved a glacier climb up Mount Shuksen (around 9,000 feet). This was similar to climbing Mt. Rainier...except we did it in a whiteout! The summit day consisted of roped glacier travel with about a hundred feet of visibility (at best). When we finally got near the top (which is rock), the glaciers were not connected to the rock. We had to go around the summit pyramid and find a bridge onto the rocks. From there, it seemed straight up to the top. Kirk and I were roped up to Jamie that day, and when Jamie said "Here we go," Kirk and I looked at each other like he was crazy. We were going to climb fifth class rock (meaning if you fall, you fall bad and long), in rain and a whiteout, and in crampons. No way. Well, we did it anyway. Again, mom really approves of this part. Jamie led the way and set the ropes, then belayed Kirk and me as we climbed. We couldn't see much at the top, but the sense of accomplishment was well worth it. Another 1:00 a.m.
Downtown Seattle with Rainier in back
start, another long day. Our clothes and tents were soaking wet all night. Not the best night's sleep. We also had an accident on this climb. Unfortunately, Karl, Micah and Ben (the other rope team) had a fall. As they were self arresting, Karl was below Micah and caught one of Micah's crampons on his index finger. We took him to the hospital the next day. His finger was broken, and he had to miss the last five days. Bummer. The good news is that he apparently bounced back and climbed Grand Teton later in the summer. Go Karl!
Days nine through thirteen. Only Ben, Micah and I went out for the last five days. Kirk was only signed up for eight days and Jamie had another climb. Ben led us back into the Cascades to an area called Boston Basin, where we got some pretty good weather and some awesome climbs. The highlight of the last five days was a very long mixed glacier and rock climb up the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. From a pure climbing perspective, this was probably the most interesting and varied climb of my summer. It involved some interesting glacier travel and a lot of exposure, a real nerve tester. We finished off the week with a triple cheeseburger at the Marblemount drive-in.
This was a great two weeks of climbing, hiking, and camping. The group and the guides were really great, and how often do thirty year old guys get to hang out in the wilderness and do a bunch of dangerous stuff that mom wouldn't approve of?
Oh, Kirk and I still had open wounds on day eight. Hope those healed up nicely Kirk. I've got some scars..
Early Winter Spire
