Nine Days Walking. . .

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Trip Start Jun 16, 2009 Previous
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  Navarrete, La Rioja, Spain and Canary Islands
Sunday, June 28, 2009

Hola!  As we walk across this beautiful country, each night we stay in a refuge or alburgue - very similar to a hostel.  In order to gain entry and a room, we show a Pilgrim´s Credential, which is similar to a passport, as each alburgue gives as a special stamp or cello.  Most charge 4-6 Euros and have quit a few beds.  So far the largest we´ve stayed in has 72 beds -  quite interesting!  Quite a few a run by churches, monasteries or other country's Pilgrims, who are giving back to the Camino.  We have comfortable stays at each one.

In Cizur Menor the refuge had room for 27.  A community dinner for 20 was organized quickly and Happy Birthday was sung to a Spanish Pilgrim in 14 different languages.  Absolutely amazing!

Walk to Puente la Reina ' up and over a range dotted with wind turbines

Alto de Perdon

.  Bought 2 L of freshly picked cherries along our path. 

Villages have been absolutely beautiful - each house has a flower garden, window boxes where roses, geraniums, hydrangeas and petunias grow and we´ve seem many, many vegetable gardens!  Even saw calla lilies in one garden, my favorite!

As we enter many of the small villages, church bells quite frequently ring - all churches are hundreds of years old, well maintained with beautiful statues and alters dripping with gold.  In Viana we saw 8-10 ladies cleaning the church - - dusting, vacuuming, sweeping. 

Stayed at a refuge run by Padres Reparadores - 72 beds - great grass courtyard where we relaxed all afternoon.    Municipal refuge in Ayegui was located in a sports facility.  No charm and we thought at first a huge mistake, but temperature during the night was cool, only with only 4 of us it was very quiet and we purchased breakfast in the AM.  Best night´s sleep so far!

Los Arcos - alburge run by Belgain Amigos was very hospitable and large .  Did not sleep well in a room with too many Pilgrims

Six-arched bridge in Puente la Reina

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Friday and Saturday our walks have been through fields of wheat and vineyards.  John Deere tractors are everywhere.  Appears that farming also attracts young men!  The hills have leveled out somewhat - have to say that I´m very tired of hills, both large and small!  Villages all have recycling stations located in central locations!  Small cars and mopeds are very popular along with bikes!

Viana:  Andrew Munoz´Alburgue in a converted monastic building provided a wonderful viewpoint where we could see 180 degrees over the countryside below (to Longrono).  Five of us made stirfry for dinner.

Our typical day, wake, walk approx 20 km, stop, shower, wash our clothes, relax, write in our journals, eat, check out the village, buy food for the next day.  Have not been eating in restaurants - spending 10-13 Euros each day for the most days. 

Many Pilgrims have blisters - we put lotion of our feet four times a day to keep them soft.  So far my shoes are OK, but I do feel stones through the soles.  May get insoles at some point

Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro - Estella

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Have met wonderful people from Finland, Sweeden, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria, England, Canada, Brazil, US - California, a priest from CT, Estonia, France, Holland, Ireland, Australia and Denmark.  Alot of Pilgrims are traveling alone - for a time of reflection.  One Spainard is walking to kick a cocaine habit.

Temperature is probably around 85 daytime and 60 at night.  Usually walking is finished by 1:00 - 1:30 because it just gets to hot in the middle of the day. 

Internet is hard to find - yesterday I spent 45 minutes preparing an entry to this blog, only to loose it when it told me I had an error on the page and it would publish.  I was not very happy. 

I have seen several Griffon vultures and today several storks - there is a nest at the church next dor to our alburge.

Today we crossed over a bridge in Logrono and are now walking into wine country. 

All for now. . . having an amazing time!

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