Ciudad Rodrigo
Trip Start
Unknown
1
2
Trip End
Ongoing
Ciudad Rodrigo,
Spain
Thursday, February 14, 2008
During the day people spend time at the bars, in the streets, and just hanging out. There is a lot of drinking, dancing, and having fun. The bars and streets were packed with people. In Ciudad Rodrigo there was a running of the bulls and La Corrida (bull fight). We were able to see both some of the running of the bulls and the bullfight. It was funny to see people dart out of the middle of the street when the bell would sound or when people would try to scare others by yelling or whistling. There were gates up to stand behind, or if you were daring, you could run in the streets. The part of the running we saw was smaller and the bulls were not as aggressive as during the bullfight. However, I still did not try to run! Haha.
The bullfight was really interesting. It was definitely better than watching it on TV, similar to seeing a live sports game. The bulls seemed a lot faster, stronger, and more aggressive in person. Also, you were able to feel the emotion of the people, the intensity felt by the toreros (the men with the capes), and the excitement of the Spaniards over their tradition. It was fun to hear the crowds cheer and see the artistic side of the event. The toreros are very deliberate both in the movements toward the bulls and the disposition toward the audience. The event begins with several men in the ring all helping to move the bull around and entice him. Then the torero will have a few individual exchanges with the bull. Then he takes two banderillas (almost like spears) and tries to stick them in the bull's back. Sometimes he did this up to like three times. Not all of the banderillas stayed in or even stuck to begin with. Then the torero uses his muleta (the red cape) to make the bull move back and forth. This part lasted for a while, maybe like ten or fifteen minutes. Then the torero would get his sword from one of the other men. He would move the bull around a few more times until he was able to take the sword and pierce it directly in the bull's back, right below the neck. The torero would continue to move the bull until it eventually fell. If it were not already dead, another man would take a small knife (almost dagger looking) and pierce on the top of the bull's head until it collapsed. Then the torero is judged and zero, one, or both ears of the bull are cut off to reflect the "grade" that he torero received. Next the torero receives applause and flowers and walks around the outside of the stadium. If he received the ears, the crowd waves white flags (either handkerchiefs, napkins, or whatever else they can find) to show that they want the ears. The torero then throws the bull's ears into the crowd.
There are six bulls during the entire corrida and six different toreros. We were there to see three of the bullfights. The three toreros we saw were from the novice division, and I believe were all 17 years old, the youngest age permitted. After the first three toreros finished, people from the public were able to go down into the stadium. Three bulls were let out individually while the people were down there. They enticed the bulls and then took off running for the walls, which had a couple steps you could climb to be up in the air. Some people were far more timid than others and hugged the wall during the entire time. Others were a little more daring and waved jackets at the bulls as they ran by. I was surprised people were allowed to do this. I am not positive, but I think the bulls they let out were the ones that were going to be used in the fights to follow. Because there were so many people in the ring, the bulls really didn't charge or move around that much. After some time they let out like five bulls with bells to round up and bring back the bull that had been out there. They did this three times, which I why I assumed they were going to be the bulls used next. It was really interesting to watch. Some of the people in our group were really bothered, but it was obvious to see what a cultural tradition and exciting thing this had become. It actually has origins from like the middle ages we learned in my culture class. Just like a sports game, it was much more exciting in person, and I am really glad I was able to see it live.
