Night and Day

  Dead Sea Region, Jordan
Wednesday, October 29, 2008

The difference between Israel and Jordan is like night and day. My Jordanian experience began the moment I stepped onto the Royal Jordanian A319 in Tel Aviv. Very professional airline, and very old school: all flight attendants are female but they also have a purser who is always an older man. Other than greet passengers, the purser doesn't seem to do anything but watch the female flight attendants work. The flight from Tel Aviv to Amman is only 65 miles, so no time for a movie or a meal. Bummer.

So close, but a world away. The flight on Royal Jordanian, as on all Arab airlines, begins with a recorded Islamic prayer. Hey, it certainly doesn't hurt. Short pleasant flight. We arrived early at 9.15am (after the one hour time change). Arrival in Amman was simple. Normal immigration and customs routine here. We got to go through the VIP immigration line because a flight from Khartoum had just arrived and the lines were long and SLOW.

Patriotic family

I found Jordan to be full of warm and friendly people. Perhaps this is an expression of the stability and security Jordan enjoys under its king. Compared with many of the Israelis I encountered I appreciated the laissez-faire nature of the Jordanians I encountered. I feel bad for those living in Israel; I can't imagine living everday with the threats they live with.

My biggest surprise came upon exiting customs, there was a driver from my hotel holding a sign with my name on it. I had not requested this, but it was a welcome surprise. My driver was George, a typical Arab name. He was Jordanian, but a Christian. He was very conversant. Instead of going straight to the resort, we first went to Madaba and Mount Nebo as they were on the way.

Madaba is one of the cities identified in the Old Testament as one of those conquered by the tribes of Israel during the exodus. This town is best known for its superb and historically significant Byzantine-era mosaics.

Madaba map

Madaba is also the most important Christian center in Jordan, and has long been an example of religious tolerance, a place where the Friday call to prayer from the mosque coexists with Sunday church bells; this is George's home town.

The main attraction here is the fabulous mosaic map depicting all the major biblical sites of the Middle East in a Greek Orthodox church. Best estimates are that the mosaic was made in the mid-6th century. When clearing a former site of an old church in order to build a new one, the mosaic map was uncovered. Unfortunately during construction of the new church the map was badly damaged. But much survives. The map is oriented east-west rather than north-south, with Palestine on the bottom left and Egypt's Nile Delta on the extreme right. The cities and villages are located remarkably accurately for the time, identified in Greek and represented in plan form, corresponding to a large degree to modern cartography. The Dead Sea, Jordan River, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho and many other places are easily identified.

Jerusalem mini-map

The Jerusalem mini-map is really cool: it is depicted as it was in the 6th century with its walls, gates and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as well as Roman features long since gone except for certain excavated parts Jerusalem today. Noticeably absent from the mini-map is the Dome of the Rock, because it had not been built yet (not built until the 7th century). My BIG purchase later was a handmade mosaic of a central portion of the map that we'll hang outside in the lower yard.

Felafel anyone

On top of Nebo

Only 10 miles further past Madaba is Mount Nebo. This mountain rises at the end of a long chain of mountains skirting the eastern shore of the Dead Sea and offers spectacular views of the Jordan River and the Dead Sea that lie 1000 meters below. It was from here that Moses was to have seen the Promised Land just before he died:

"Go up unto...Mount Nebo in Moab, across from Jericho, and view Canaan, the land I am giving the Israelites as their own possession. There on the mountain that you have climbed you will die." (Deuteronomy 32:49-50)

Nebo mosaic

The remains of an early 4th century church that was later converted into a Byzantine basilica is on top. Not much to explore except to view the magnificent mosaics that are on display from the church. Pope John Paul II came here as part of the millennium celebration, and there is a monument commemorating the visit.

man or woman?

Otherwise, people come to enjoy the sweeping views of ancient Gilead, Judah, Jericho and the Negev and to stand where Moses stood peering across the Jordan River to Jericho in the distance.

This way down

After a couple of hours of touring (and mosaic shopping), we finally got to the Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea Resort. The location of the resort was magnificent with spectacular views and sunsets over the Dead Sea. In the distance, you can see Jericho, the outer suburbs of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. At night the lights of these same cities beckon. It was very surreal to be sitting looking at where I had just been. Because of immigration and border formalities, it made it seem so much further.

Kempinski

But here everything was peaceful and the troubles on the other side of the border really did seem a world away. Arrival would be as expected from any luxury property: staff was professional, friendly, hospitable and helpful. Because of American Express, I got upgraded to a terrace room which had its own private terrace overlooking the Dead Sea as well as a separate balcony off the bedroom.

My terrace

No complaints here. Just too bad I couldn't stay longer.

The Kempinski resort is one of several along the shores of the Dead Sea.

What a view

The area is looking like a mini Sharm-el-Sheik. The Kempinski neighbors the Movenpick, Marriott, and Crown Plaza resorts. Currently the Kempinski is the newest. More are under construction. Ironically there are none on the Israeli side. The biggest difference between here and Sharm is that there is no diving in this sea...nothing alive, nothing to see underwater. The salt and mineral content is so high that the water is supposedly 24% solid. As a result you can float like a cork.

Pool or Dead Sea

I certainly did. Needless to say, this also makes plant and animal life impossible, so the only thing swimming in here are a few tourists. The water is very bitter tasting that it will sting if it gets in your eyes. You'll quickly discover any cuts you didn't know you had...don't swim after shaving.

Like a cork

The added buoyancy makes swimming very difficult because you're so high in the water and drowning is virtually impossible.

These resorts cater to Europeans who come for the sun and the restorative properties of the minerals in the Dead Sea and the mud. Mud massages are available right on the beach.

Mud massage

These resorts definitely cater to the package European holiday maker (especially Russians). Menus are European, there was nothing local about any of the menus. The two top restaurants in my resort were Thai and Italian. I couldn't even get shwarma at the pool grill, but there were hamburgers and French fries. On the second night they did host a Lebanese buffet grill, so the food was more local. The Kempinski is building the largest spa in the Middle East. It is HUGE, even the treatment rooms are huge. So large, that each contains its own shower and changing room, relaxation area and the treatment area itself. The staff were Thai women and Romanian men...strange for Jordan...next door at the Movenpick were Chinese staff. But, come on, nobody looks good half-naked under flourescent lighting. Oh well.

Sunset

The sunsets over the Dead Sea are just magnificent. The colors of the desert come alive.

Early to bed...wake-up was way too early this morning in Tel Aviv...tomorrow will be early too, off to Petra.

Cool clouds over Israel