The Trip to Tortuguero
Trip Start Jul 18, 2009
16Trip End Aug 03, 2009
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Where I stayed
Eventually the coach arrived, full of people and we were introduced to Allan who would be our guide for our stay in Tortuguero. He was very knowledgeable and pointed out the many sights that we passed on our way to Siquirres where we would pick up the motorboats. With our original route blocked by the landslide we were forced to take a longer route but it did enable us to see more of the area
We travelled through small villages each with a very obvious graveyard filled with large white tombs. Apparently, the dead are buried above the ground as the many earthquakes experienced in the country meant that bodies could move about if buried below the ground. I suppose it was to make sure the bodies were in the right grave and didn't suddenly appear on the surface after any seismic activity
We stopped for breakfast at a restaurant near Guapiles in the mountains and waited patiently in line to be served, the place was packed with tourists. The rain was falling quite heavily now and the mountains about us were shrouded in clouds but the views from our table were amazing. Breakfast was better than it looked consisting of scrambled egg and the ubiquitous rice that would form the basis for most of the meals we would eat here.
Back on the road we were lucky enough to see our first wildlife a very wet sloth hanging to a tree, we stopped for a photograph opportunity but it was difficult to distinguish the wet fur of the sloth from the leaves of the trees, luckily there would be better opportunities later in the holiday.
Finally we arrived at Siquirres, by now the weather had improved and it was beginning to feel quite hot
We all piled into the waiting motor boats making sure that we had put out luggage on board first. The boat trip was about an hour and a half but there were plentiful wildlife stops on the way. We saw bright pink spoonbills, colourful kingfishers and our first howler monkey although only distinguished as a black blob in the trees. Howlers are notably slow moving creatures mainly because of their diet of toxic canopy leafs that leave them most of the time in a kind of drug filled stupor. We also glimpsed our first cayman sliding effortlessly through the water, its snout and head the only giveaway.
Mawamba Lodge has a great location bounded by the Caribbean one side and the Tortuguero Canals on the other. The rooms were reasonably basic but this was made up for by the great location. The gardens were filled with beautiful flowers and lizards lurking in bushes or sunbathing on the beach. There is even an area where they protect the Gaudy leaf frog, collecting the spawn and then raising the tadpoles in tanks. Eric was in charge of the project and was able to show us these beautiful frogs up close. They hardly look real with their bright red eyes, orange suckered feet and blue underside. In fact they must be the most beautiful frog in the world. When at rest these colourful frogs blend in with the tree leaves and are surprisingly difficult to see, in fact although we walked through the frog area quite a few times during our stay I never saw another one
Allan took us for a walk around the extensive gardens showing us green lizards hidden in pineapple plants, iguanas up trees, hands of bananas, avocados, star fruits and beautiful butterflies. The most amazing is the beautiful Blue Morpho, a large butterfly with metallic wings shimmering green and turquoise the effect of iridescent scales on its wings. Taking a photo of these magnificent creatures was impossible because as soon as they settled they closed their wings hiding that incredible colouring. We were also able to see the Blue Jeans dart Frog and the incredible Black and Green Dart Frog neither of which looked real, more like the plastic figures you see in toy shops.
Dinner was in a large restaurant and you sat in groups with your guide. The food was good and we sat next to a Spanish family whose English was as good as our Spanish so there were a lot of hand signals going on. Then all of a sudden the staff came out with a large cake for Andy, my husband’s birthday. I don’t know who was most surprised particularly as it was two days early but a really nice touch.
We didn’t stay up too late as we were still coming to terms with the jet lag. The sea seemed incredibly loud in the night so much so that I got up to check that it wasn’t sweeping up to our room. Thankfully it was still some yards away.