Day 21: Eilat Mountains and Bedouin Camp
Trip Start
May 14, 2008
1
23
42
Trip End
Jun 17, 2008
Eilat,
Israel
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Shor seems like a nice guy and we're thinking that this is really going to be a good trip. We start in the Kibbutz Eilat fields that run right up to the Jordanian border. This area of the Arava Valley is well irrigated and everything is lush and green. We see melons, date palms and other crops being grown in the greenhouses. The agricultural area gives way to evaporation pools where we see a flock of flamingos that are permanent residents of the area, which is in a major bird migration flyway (but not this time of year)
Flamingos in the Arava Valley
. We learn that flamingos get their pink color from what they eat and that salmon is artificially colored. Who knew? Shor's sharp eyes pick up two antelopes and sorry to say, I didn't have the telephoto lens on the camera so I didn't have a chance of getting a worthwhile photo. In any case, they were so well camouflaged and moving so quickly, I probably wouldn't have gotten any photos of them anyway. We drive by the water treatment facility and learn that all of Eilat's water is treated here; they are not using water from any other area of Israel. Isn't that incredible? We stop at an old well and Shor sets out mats under a large set of Egyptian dome palm trees that are at the northern most place of their species. We drink tea and look out at the landscape. If you've been looking at the photos, you know that I love trees and if there is one to photograph, I will do that. We finally identify the Acacia tree, a tree we have seen many times in Israel but didn't know the name. Its roots are 18 times its height. And it's the key to desert life, supplying food and water for animals. We are really enjoying ourselves!We begin our ascent into the mountains, on a rough 4x4 route, with beautiful views of mountains and Israel/Jordan valley in the distance. Shor points out the subtle colors of iron, copper, sulphur and gypsum. We identify two types of caper bushes that are considered the "lion in the rocks"
Date palms in the Arava Valley
. Why? They provide a lesson to be learned - to survive, you must adapt. Their leaves face sideways to avoid evaporation. Their roots have acid that splits the rock so it can find water! Can you imagine roots with that capability? We see plants clinging to life. This has been a particularly dry year with only 7 ml of rain. Yet they seem to adapt, stay alive and wait for rain. We drive past a large Pistachio tree with a sign indicating that it is considered "sacred". When I get home I must read what makes a tree sacred? Is that different than "holy"? This one may be "sacred" because it seems to be the only one around in a very large area.Lunch is in the shade under the vertical side of the mountain. As the sun changes, we shift our mat so we can stay in the shade! There is a big spread of Israeli salads, hummus, pita, fruits and water. In the heat with no wind, you really don't feel like eating much. We eat slowly and relax. Shor keeps reminding us to drink water, which you would think by now we had mastered, but seem to forget and appreciate his reminders.
Shor asks us if we want to hike in through the Eteq Canyon and shows us the hike down and up and explains that it will be very hot and there is no wind. No water to cool us off as in the Jordan canyon hike yesterday
Eilat Mountains
! The Israeli side is much drier than the Jordanian side. It is a 1 1/2 hour hike and based on his comments we decide not to do it. We discuss other possibilities, instead of the same repetitive landscape sitting in the hot dusty jeep, being bounced around and hearing the roar of the jeep engine. Shor uses the "should have asked" comment that we heard from Gil the first day about an Israeli guide in Jordan. I wonder how I would have known what more to ask, given that I had asked Gil to suggest a tour in Israel to complement the tour in Jordan. Today was to be in the Eilat Mountains and hiking and tomorrow camel riding and another hike. It had sounded excellent to me! We're feeling frustration about spending a full day driving around in a hot, dusty, noisy jeep. This is kind of like choosing snowmobiling over snowshoeing or cross country skiing. We always opt for the non-motorized, more athletic back-to-nature activity. "Always"? Evidently not today, but in hindsight, coming from Miami Beach we are used to the heat and we should have just done the hike. And when I initially made the reservations, I should have questioned the activities as appropriate for the season, what are the "must see" natural attractions of the area, how much time driving, and how much time actually doing activities. Anyway, that's hindsight and learning for future trips. At the time, we agree that Shor will take us to some interesting views
Interesting textures & shapes on the mountain
. Just a short distance we come to a broad expansive view over the Timna Valley. Basically he tells us that no one goes into the desert for 2 days at this time of year.We're back in the jeep bouncing away, when Harvey, out of the blue, starts talking about artificial intelligence and a software project that might be interesting to study. How does his mind work? I'm sitting writing this journal and reflecting on his process. Maybe each of us need to be in an environment that we consider uninteresting with not much stimulation, to go inside ourselves and find seeds of creativity and life? This is the first time in several years that I have heard Harvey talk this way. I smile inside. Maybe there is some magic today underneath the frustration.
Harvey's input on this topic: I was bored out of my mind bouncing around in the heat and dust. So I decided to go into my own world. Usually this involves software and math. I was thinking about how incredible humans and animals are in their ability to heal themselves. This started me down the road on some ideas in artificial intelligence and how software should have some of the same capabilities that are found in nature.
We arrive at our khan (traditional Arab guesthouse for desert travelers, similar to a Bedouin camp), called Shacharut. We see the large main building that has Bedouin rugs covering the floor where people sleep and eat but we immediately take advantage of the toilets that are in a separate building with showers and are very clean
Shor & Harvey near our jeep
. Shor introduces us to a woman from the khan. I thought we had reserved a separate unit, but shared bathrooms, which I had seen a photo of on their website. I am surprised when she walks us over to an air-conditioned wooden building that has an actual bed and private shower and toilet! We're told that the generator shuts off at 11:30 and we are thinking, don't we want air conditioning at night?Right outside our room is a small pool facing a beautiful desert view! It looks so inviting and refreshing that the fact that we don't have bathing suits is not an issue. I am wearing those convertible pants that can be made into shorts, and hey, this isn't a wet T-shirt contest...and Harvey has his underwear, that looks like a Speedo. The water is COLD, but that makes it all the more refreshing. This pool tops the day as a metaphor. With all the barrenness, sameness to the landscape, Harvey gets an idea that interests him for further study. Maybe, his water spigot is opening again with fresh ideas? The pool is cool, clean and refreshing. Like his mind? Maybe this trip to Israel is just what he needed personally.
We have the pool to ourselves for quite a long time. A family joins us and they have been on a full day camel trek and talking about how much fun it was
Finding shade in the Eilat Mountains
. Since I read the book "Tracks", about a woman who took a camel trek from Alice Springs to the west coast of Australia, I have had this fantasy of being on a camel. I didn't want a get up on a camel, take a photo and get off experience. I know, it's childish, but I have dreams of being on a camel a bit longer. That's the reason for booking a four hour ride. At least that is what I thought. Shor introduces us to the camel guide and informs us that we have signed up for a 1 ½ hour trip tomorrow morning. I comment that it is four hours and they both state that is not the reservation. I'm disappointed, but as Harvey & I talk, my self assuredness about the length of time wavers; I have been having some memory issues and becoming unsure of myself. I wish I had not left the detailed itinerary with our luggage in Eilat! That would have solved everything so quickly!Later, Harvey takes off to talk with Shor and asks him to double check with the Desert Tours office about the reservation time. Shaharut is on a plateau and at sunset we stand and watch the sun set over the desert. The big, wide, open space and the slight wind feel good. It makes you want to take a big deep breath!
At dinner, we eat in the big main building, sitting around a big round table on cushions. We're served tahini, hummus, tomato and cucumber salad, eggplant salad and pita. Then the main meal of couscous, chicken with yams, carrots, potatoes and some tasty spices. Tea and cookies top off the meal. Shor still hasn't heard back from the tour office and says he will call them again. We head off to our room, glad that we have paid the extra money for our private room with bathroom.
Click here for today's photos.
Comments
Great post on Eilat!
The resort town's in the news today. I featured your blog on http://blog.travelpod.com
Louise Brown
TravelPod Community Manager