All alone among the Fijians
Oct 02, 2006
I managed to hitch a car down the south road of the island which was partially marked as a hiking trail on my map. So shaken and stirred I bounced around the back of a pickup truclk with about another 8 people. To give you an indication how far off the beaten track this is: I asked them if they had a lot of travelers come through here
. The lady answered "Yes, we had a Japanese guy come though here about two months ago". This car was going all the way though to Savusavu (second bigest town on the island) which I also planned on visiting. But I decited to accept the offer of a friendly lady in the truck who invited me to their farm somewhere halfway. So after about an hour and a half driving through a rainforest with a view of the ocean we got off the car. A little road led into a coconuttree plantation. Another 30 minutes walking through a tropical rainstorm led us to their farm. A little paradise within paradise.
I chatted with the lady for a while until the husbant came back home on his horse. The lady did not accept my kava powder and told me to give it to her husbant. He claped before taking it and quickly got his kava gear out. He made us two bowls and we drank for about 3 hours, Exchanging stories as the sun went down. With candlelight we ate the meal prepared on a wooden fire. Simple, but very tasty. Everything cooked in coconutoil.
We all went to bed.
My bus to the boat was leaving at 5 AM so with some sleepy eyes I sat myself at the windowless window. Enjoying the rising sun I made my way to the boat which was first to leave for Viti Venu, and from there continue onward to Valua Levu, the second largest island in Fiji. This 30 year old boat wasn't pretty but did manage to get me there around noon. The ticket I had would bring me to Lambasa, the biggest town on the island, but I had set my mind on taking the road less traveled and left the bus for what it was and walked off the boat.