Parks, Docks and of course more steaks - BA Part 2

Trip Start Apr 12, 2011
Trip End Apr 01, 2012

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Flag of Argentina  , Capital Federal District,
Monday, May 16, 2011

Now having explored a good part of the south of BA, we go to the north which is traditionally a bit more affluent as a lot of Portenos (people from BA) moved north to escape disease epidemics about a hundred years ago. This part of town (Recoleta) is filled with big green parks, museums and art installations and so you can escape the busy BA traffic.  We wander through the parks and up to the MAMBA.  This is mostly modern art and has a lot of Latin American artists we haven't heard of yet so it’s pretty interesting.  Plus there is a modern art exhibition about the disappearance of people in the 1970’s which includes materials such as dried blood and animal fat so I imagine it would be pretty controversial.

Another part of the north which we explored was Palermo which had even more green space with rose gardens and duck ponds, very pretty part of town but you don’t quite manage to escape the city noise thanks to the train lines and airport (so it’s not just London where you can’t escape it).  Next we visit Palermo Viejo/Soho which still has an old feel, lots of quirky shops, bars and restaurants.  We’re still trying to decide where we prefer San Telmo (a bit gritty but lots of character) or Palermo Viejo (a bit nicer but probably missing some atmosphere).  We do find plenty of graffiti in Palermo so we think it has potential to have it all. Again, we head for some food (all we seem to do is eat – but it’s all so good we can’t say no).  This time we go to a retro American burger place which seems to have gone for original features and so we think it’s retro cool....rather than just being any burger joint.  Plus it has best burgers yet so we’re happy, although I’m beginning to feel like we should eat something apart from red meat.  The rest of the evening is spent sampling local red wine and so it’s a very enjoyable evening.

Next day we head to Puerto Madero, which is more docks but the ones the city have put money into regenerating (unlike La Boca).  This is also the financial district so all the restaurants and bars are really nice and we spend some time wandering around here pretending we wouldn’t want to go into these fancy restaurants anyway.  We also take a walk around the ecological park beside here which seems to be a popular running route and takes us out to see the river (Rio de la Plata or 'River Plate’).  This stretch of river is the widest in the world and we now understand why our ferry to Uruguay is going to take three hours despite being just across the river.  The ecological park is interesting in itself as its very wild marsh-type land in the centre of the city and a good couple hours walk.  Having done our walk we deserve some lunch and so we find some street parillas which must be set up for the many offices nearby.  We manage two massive steak sandwiches and drinks for a fiver, finally the food and prices we were expecting to find in South America! Very tasty!

I have to admit that our next stop was a Starbucks but in our defence it had good seats in the sun and Jonny was suffering from withdrawals from a large coffee so we counteract our local food with some drinks from a global chain.

The big event for us today is Laura Marling gig, she is playing in a venue in San Telmo and we manage to get tickets.  We also bring along about four people from the hostel that are also fans so we have a crowd together.  We learnt that gigs in Argentina are quite different from back home.  The time on our tickets said 9pm and we turn up at 9.10pm, the support act is almost finished.  Laura comes on at 9.30pm, plays for an hour and then everyone leaves (we think to go for dinner).  So it was a quick gig but she was so captivating that it was definitely worth it.  Not sure she knew what to say to the several declarations of love and marriage proposals from the Argentineans...

Last day in BA and so we try to get round to the things we keep meaning to do.  We go to the Fine Arts Musuem in Palermo which has a mix of modern and traditional Latin-American art. Interesting to see the kind of lives people had and the type of art, not all so different from what we see in Europe.  Then back to Palermo to look at more shops and restaurants for the afternoon.  Of course we need afternoon cake where we share a massive piece of apple pie.  Dinner with Dan and Jen and we need to go to a parilla for our last night in Buenos Aires – La Escondida, we have the best steaks so far.  But we’re not sure if it’s solely down to the steak as we have finally mastered how to order a steak medium-rare and so we’re all happy.

I do really feel that now I should cut down on the red meat but next is Uruguay who is also very proud of their beef and so it would be rude not to....

Really enjoyed our week in BA and feel we have done the main sites but there is still so much to see.  Unfortunately I don’t think we can justify staying longer just to try out different restaurants and bars so off we go to Uruguay.    

Full photos here:


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Andy & Dawn on

really enjoying your seem to be having a great time. Andy salivating over steaks!!! Keep safe. xxx

David Millar on

Another brilliant Blog..Steaks sound amazing.Glad all going well. Amanda asking for you today.Gave her details of your blog. Love Dad xxx

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