The next day, I had planned to try the same thing at another campground on the beach, but I changed my mind after getting there early
. I decided to push on and get closer to the hotel I had reserved for the next night near Capua. I ended up stopping in an orchard to take a break from the heat. I had already managed 60 miles so far, so I decided to just make the orchard my campsite for the night. The fruit on the trees was still green, so I figured it would be a quiet place to hang out for a night. Not so, as I discovered at 0530 the next morning. A farmer drove his car right up next to my tent, looked down at me, and just shook his head, saying, “No, no, no, no…” Then, eight other guys walked past and started going to work. Needless to say, I took that as my cue to leave ASAP. Haha, well, it was bound to happen sooner or later with my occasional illegal camping.
Amazingly, the lady at the hotel I had booked for the night was kind enough to let me have my room when I arrived at the hotel at 9 in the morning. It was my intent just to leave the trailer and bags while I spirited down to the town, but having a shower first was much appreciated. I spent the rest of the day seeing the Roman amphitheater in Capua, then riding up to a town that rises 1000 feet over the surrounding area, where I stayed until night fell. I really do appreciate a good view.
The historic royal palace in Caserta, right next to Capua, was a must-see before I left the area
. It is closed on Tuesdays, so I didn’t get to visit until the next day, when I had to make it down to Portici, next to Naples, and where my hostel was located. The palace was rather extravagant on the inside, and I have never seen a place (1200 rooms in all!) quite so colorful. The gardens stretch out about two miles in length and run up to a hill, where water from an aqueduct runs to feed the fountains through the gardens. I had seen a photo online from up on the hill where the water originates, and the view from that spot was something I really wanted to see. The way up was closed, but after watching some youths skirt the barrier, I reminded myself that I am in a country where nobody follows the rules. Breaking the rules was well worth it this time, for although the disused path was lined with trash and some 15 adolescents were cavorting about in the water at the top, the view was impressive.
Due to my interest in the TV show "Spartacus", I just had to stop in Capua on the way to Naples. There is the second largest Roman amphitheater behind the Colosseum, and it is only 20 miles north of Naples, so why not? The route from Rome took me along the coast for two days before I went inland to Capua on the third day. This section of the coast is rather expensive with regards to camping ($30/night), so the first night, I camped in the woods across the street from a campground, swam in the sea, then used the showers and facilities inside the campground before retiring to my tent. If they are going to make it that easy, you know I'm gonna do it. The only drawback was the mess of mosquitoes hanging out in the marshy ground in the woods…I got over a dozen bites that one night.