Qutb Minar, Jama Masjid and Akshardham Temple

Trip Start Feb 16, 2007
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Trip End Mar 18, 2007


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Sunday, February 25, 2007

Sunday we hit Delhi for a second time to try to visit some of the things we missed the time before. Our driver was Amzad, he was the same driver who had taken us out the week before but his memory seemed to have lapsed and he was insistent we should go to the India Gate and Red Fort. It took us a while to explain to him that he had taken us there the week before! Our first stop was the superb Qutb Minar. Started in 1198 and the majority of it finished by 1368 it stood an impressive 73m tall and had survived earth quakes and the like. Some of the stonework on it and other buildings in the complex was very ornate and was the highlight of this place for me. Irina had wanted to come to this complex since day 1 to see the Iron Pillar - A 7m high pillar thought to have been made in the 3rd centuary. Scientists today haven't been able to work out how the people of that day with their technology were able to make a piece of iron with such purity. Supposedly it is not meant to rust, although Irina and I are convinced we could see the start of some rust specs near its base! There was a zebra crossing from this complex back to the parking lot, but try crossing when there was a car insight only at your own risk! The pedestrian certainly is not the king of the road in this country.
 
Next our guide suggested we stopped at Safdarjang's Tomb on our drivers suggestion, this place only had a small mention in my Lonely Planet guidebook. Another great example of Mughal architecture we were the only westerners in the place and it was rather pleasant. Arabic at Safdarjang's Tomb
Arabic at Safdarjang's Tomb
The tomb itself was impressive, there was a nearby mosque with some pretty domes on the roof and best of all, no tourists. The grounds of this place were full with couples! Apparently this was the place to come of you wanted to lie on the grass and make out with your lover.
 
Our driver tried to take us to one of the emporiums even though we had told him 5 times we didn't want to do any shopping, we quickly told him to continue when he stopped down what appeared to be some dodgy back alley! Next was the Jama Masjid even though we had told our driver we though it was closed for lunch he was insistent it was open, he was a Muslim after all, surely he would know! He was also insistent that we spent at least 2 hours there. We figured he had other errands to run! Well the mosque was of course closed, we turned round to head back to the car and of course our driver was gone. The 4 of us took a cycle rickshaw with a really friendly rider and went to explore the spice and silver markets around Chandni Chowk, the main road through Old Delhi and some of the back streets.  Apparently this road is mental during the week and barely passable. Today however was Sunday and all the shops were closed. Still I think everyone was happy to have a little ride out on a cycle rickshaw. We gave our drivers $5 for the 40 minute trip, about 5 times the going rate!
 
The mosque was superb. We, of course, had a guide latch on to us almost immediately who gave an interesting little tour. At the end he demanded $6 per person. Fantastic coloured rock carvings at Qtab Minar
Fantastic coloured rock carvings at Qtab Minar
I handed him $4 and he didn't complain too much so I think we were grand. After leaving our guide we were free to explore at will. For an extra 50c we bought tickets that would allow us to go to the top of the minarette. There were strict rules that females should be accompanied by a male. Aparently this was due to concerns about their safety. Luckily for them I was willing to take on the risk of allowing to join me, although my repeated requests for tips were constantly ignored. Darcy had arrived from the US and joined Irina, Wendy and myself this day. The winding stairs up the tower were extremely thin and passing people coming the other way was a bit of a problem. The space at the top was also very crowded for the 20+ people who were up there. There were however superb views over Delhi and over to the Red Fort.
 
Back to the car, luckily our driver had returned from his errands and we were heading to the Akshardham Temple. A temple so new it wasn't even in my guide book! Nothing electronic and no bags could be taken into this place. The place was mobbed with Indians and we saw 5 westerners there at most. Some of the stonework around the entrance was shoddy for something that was finished in 2005 and many of the stones had chips in them. We next walked around some gardens where it looked like they had plastic statues of the famous gods and people of India. It was fairly interesting to read some of the history of India. All of the people were made to look larger than life, even the status of Ghandi looked like he'd been taking steroids! The main temple at this place looked impressive from the outside and it certainly impressed from inside. The walls and the roof in particular that were marble with some ornate carvings on them. Highly recommended.
 
After this temple it was back to our hotel for another trip to the Kebab Factory. Our driver looked disgusted with his tip, but he got the fairly standard 200 rupees and went missing for a good part of the day and had tried to take us to a shop we didn't want to go to try to get some extra commission. Dinner was fun, I tried the meat platter this time with 2 helpings of the extremely tasty kulfi pistachio ice cream.
 
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