Gonder - Camelot of Africa

  Gonder, Ethiopia
Saturday, December 31, 2005

Ceiling at Debre Selassie Church

Wasn't looking forward to the trip to Gonder, but it turned out to be really pleasant. Arrived at bus station, no touts, got a bus and seat immediately and we were gone, even arrived ahead of schedule, the burned out tanks on the side of the road were a bit disconcerting, but the scenery was fantastic, plenty of egrets and some cool black and white storks with bright orange beaks. Went to a church that was described as one of the treasures of Ethiopia for it's paintings, Debre Barhan Selassi Church. They didn't open when they should have. I arrived and I was alone, I had to wait for an hour, but they soon opened it when the big tourist bus arrived though! Nice painting but I think I preferred the ones at the monasteries in Lake Tana, a bit more colourful.

Fasilides castle from Goya Hotel.

Met 3 Bostonians at the posh Goya Hotel, that was placed high on the hill, I'd gone there to have a beer and watch the sunset. Had dinner with 2 very German Austrian guys :-)

Fasilides castle

Hooded Vultures

Tree in wall

Second day in Gonder and I visited a couple of the main tourist attractions, the Royal Enclosure (castle) that gave Gonder the nickname of the Camelot of Africa. Also visited Fasilada's Bath. A place that really kicks into life on Timkat (Epiphany) when they have a mass baptism there - Interestingly the Ethiopians use a different time and date system to us, so their epiphany is on Jan 22! The skies of Gonder are always full with black kites and I've also spotted a number of vultures and there more bloody pigeons here than Trafalgar Square.

New year eve tonight and I went out with Zak (originally from Sudbury, Mass) and his Ozzy wife. We went to see some traditional Asmari music and dancing, the Ethiopian women can really move! They played a one stringed fiddle that made an interesting sound. I think we caused a bit of a fracas when we left for not leaving enough of a tip, the singer kept grabbing my hand and placing it on her forehead - I thought she had the hots for me, but apparently you're meant to place the tip on their forehead! I was totally oblivious to the fact we'd pissed them all off until someone mentioned it to me halfway home - I guess that means it was a good night :-)

One other funny thing in Gonder, one hotel there named after the Simien Mountains, but they had a bit of a typo in the name - they named it 'The Semen Hotel' - well it made me laugh out loud!