Drymen - Rowardennan
Trip Start
May 18, 2002
1
3
9
Trip End
May 26, 2002
Rowardennan,
United Kingdom
Monday, May 20, 2002
Weather doesn't look too hopeful today (wet) and Jon depressed us all (well me anyway) by passing on the forecast of rain all week. Ahhhh! So much for this being the best time of year to come hiking in Scotland!
Breakfast. I decided against the full English (Scottish) breakfast, and just had egg and toast. Eli was fun to watch, as she dealt with a variety of new and exciting breakfast items. A strange sausage, 'lom' sausage, not lawn (the spelling is important, as Sinead made a joke (which none of us got until she explained days later) about dogs). Anyway, Eli didn't appreciate the sausage (think had haggis in it). And then there was the fried bread that she happily bit into thinking it was toast, and then spat out when she got a mouthful of grease!
Set off about 9:30. Dry(ish) to start off with. Skirted Drymen by going over fields round the back, which were a little muddy in places, but not too bad. Legs are feeling ok as was trying preventative massaging of calves last night, which seems to have worked. Think I can manage the seven mile hike until lunch at Balmaha.
Very long bit through forestry land. Walked along with Sinead and Ronan, making up politically correct nursery rhymes. (All because of Ronan's reading of that politically correct book last night). Sinead started off with "Three visually impaired rodents" (or something similar). Then we all tried "Little Miss Muffet" as "Chronologically disadvantaged female member of the Muffet family", but got sidetracked by a serious discussion of the 'intent' of the spider when it sat down. Ronan claimed it was innocent and just wanted to be friends and that she overreacted,
whilst Sinead and I held that it had rudely invaded her personal space. After an exciting half hour or so of argument moved on to a nursery rhyme competition, where had to take it in turns to come up with different rhymes. Sinead was scarily good. (Can tell already that this is obviously going to be a very intellectual trip.)
Stopped to take off waterproofs as doesn't seem like it is going to rain. (Think I need to get some better ones, that breathe, as am sweating a bit too much inside mine, so actually getting wetter than if wasn't wearing them). Sinead now covering her bag with her waterproof, like a cape! Seems like a reasonable idea, so copied it.
Nice walk so far, but then for some reason ignored a short cut to town, and headed up this incredibly long hill that started out ok but then went on forever! Lots of people on it, very few with backpacks. (There is this shuttle service that will take bags between hostels for you but we're not using it). Didn't totally enjoy, as I started to fall behind, and once started to slow down couldn't seem to pick up any speed again, so the others getting further away. (Am obviously being abandoned and will be stuck here forever). Should have got my sticks out but just felt couldn't come to a complete stop or might never start again! Jon and Sinead waited for me at one point (so maybe they aren't so bad).
Finally got a bit flatter, and therefore easier, and also stopped for a mini break, so more hopeful of making it off the mountain. Another alternative route, with a path up to the summit, but I decided that didn't really need to do it so continued on the way down, joined-by Eli who agreed that the views probably weren't that much better from there. Bit of a steep way down but sticks are definitely helped here as added extra support.
Nice little woodland area. Eli says all the water and plant life reminds her of rainforests. (Said that there were dry ones in Costa Ricca, but how - doesn't that kind of defeat the meaning of `rain'). Reached a carpark and visitor center so stopped for restrooms and to wait for the others. Bought postcards with gorgeous views. Met a couple of the girls from the first night in Milngavie. They all look far too relaxed and fit eating their rice crackers, but also don't have their backpacks (making use of the shuttle service) so that could be part of it.
Others arrived, so headed over to the Oak Tree for lunch. Big pub but not bad. Toasted sandwich and chips. A bit chilly as they kept opening the window and door - do we all smell that much - but the beer helped (more 80 shillings). After another long lunch went to the village shop and bought some sweets and Eli stopped me from making a tactical and fashionable error. They had these ponchos like hers and for a few brief moments I was tempted by the thought of swanning around Scotland in a tartan one, but realised would be out of place in New Hampshire so went for a plain blue one. Shame really.
Strawberry chews not that exciting and Jon had the ingratitude to throw his away! Would never have known if not for Ronan kindly asking him why he was getting rid of it. Jon wasn't quite so grateful, but at least I know about his underhandedness (and Ronan's honesty). May take a while to forgive.
Climbed up hill on edge of town and looked down on loch. All very nice. Walking through a wood for a while with literally thousands of bluebells carpeting the place. Brilliant. Had to take lots of photos, so hope the colours come out.
Went along the waters edge on and off. Sat down for a while on some rocks and skimmed stones. Jon by far the best (a wasted youth!) but the rest of us are not too bad. Ronan wandered off into the distance. Elderly couple came past with their dog, who was so enthusiastic to chase sticks but as the couple didn't notice Eli obliged. I tried too, but it kept bringing the stick back to Eli and ignored me.... Couple kept chatting to Eli, but she admitted later that she didn't really understand a word of what they were saying! But its' good to talk.
Was nice to stop and just enjoy the scenery rather than having to keep walking all the time (and this less than an hour after the lunch break - it's a hard life). Then saw our first Highland C000s over the road in a field. Francois was very excited.
A lot of the walk today was through land that they are trying to reclaim back to "natural" woodland. They've cut the fir trees down and fenced the whole area off from deer, so slowly oaks and birch etc are beginning to grow back, and lots of wildflowers all around. Doesn't look too great yet, but can see potential. Way too many ups and downs through the wood as well, which all seemed a little unnecessary at times as the path kept rejoining the same road so if had stayed on that it would have been much easier. But it's the doing the distance that counts (isn't it) and the woodland path is far nicer too.
whilst Sinead and I held that it had rudely invaded her personal space. After an exciting half hour or so of argument moved on to a nursery rhyme competition, where had to take it in turns to come up with different rhymes. Sinead was scarily good. (Can tell already that this is obviously going to be a very intellectual trip.)
Stopped to take off waterproofs as doesn't seem like it is going to rain. (Think I need to get some better ones, that breathe, as am sweating a bit too much inside mine, so actually getting wetter than if wasn't wearing them). Sinead now covering her bag with her waterproof, like a cape! Seems like a reasonable idea, so copied it.
Nice walk so far, but then for some reason ignored a short cut to town, and headed up this incredibly long hill that started out ok but then went on forever! Lots of people on it, very few with backpacks. (There is this shuttle service that will take bags between hostels for you but we're not using it). Didn't totally enjoy, as I started to fall behind, and once started to slow down couldn't seem to pick up any speed again, so the others getting further away. (Am obviously being abandoned and will be stuck here forever). Should have got my sticks out but just felt couldn't come to a complete stop or might never start again! Jon and Sinead waited for me at one point (so maybe they aren't so bad).
Finally got a bit flatter, and therefore easier, and also stopped for a mini break, so more hopeful of making it off the mountain. Another alternative route, with a path up to the summit, but I decided that didn't really need to do it so continued on the way down, joined-by Eli who agreed that the views probably weren't that much better from there. Bit of a steep way down but sticks are definitely helped here as added extra support.
Nice little woodland area. Eli says all the water and plant life reminds her of rainforests. (Said that there were dry ones in Costa Ricca, but how - doesn't that kind of defeat the meaning of `rain'). Reached a carpark and visitor center so stopped for restrooms and to wait for the others. Bought postcards with gorgeous views. Met a couple of the girls from the first night in Milngavie. They all look far too relaxed and fit eating their rice crackers, but also don't have their backpacks (making use of the shuttle service) so that could be part of it.
Others arrived, so headed over to the Oak Tree for lunch. Big pub but not bad. Toasted sandwich and chips. A bit chilly as they kept opening the window and door - do we all smell that much - but the beer helped (more 80 shillings). After another long lunch went to the village shop and bought some sweets and Eli stopped me from making a tactical and fashionable error. They had these ponchos like hers and for a few brief moments I was tempted by the thought of swanning around Scotland in a tartan one, but realised would be out of place in New Hampshire so went for a plain blue one. Shame really.
Strawberry chews not that exciting and Jon had the ingratitude to throw his away! Would never have known if not for Ronan kindly asking him why he was getting rid of it. Jon wasn't quite so grateful, but at least I know about his underhandedness (and Ronan's honesty). May take a while to forgive.
Climbed up hill on edge of town and looked down on loch. All very nice. Walking through a wood for a while with literally thousands of bluebells carpeting the place. Brilliant. Had to take lots of photos, so hope the colours come out.
Went along the waters edge on and off. Sat down for a while on some rocks and skimmed stones. Jon by far the best (a wasted youth!) but the rest of us are not too bad. Ronan wandered off into the distance. Elderly couple came past with their dog, who was so enthusiastic to chase sticks but as the couple didn't notice Eli obliged. I tried too, but it kept bringing the stick back to Eli and ignored me.... Couple kept chatting to Eli, but she admitted later that she didn't really understand a word of what they were saying! But its' good to talk.
Was nice to stop and just enjoy the scenery rather than having to keep walking all the time (and this less than an hour after the lunch break - it's a hard life). Then saw our first Highland C000s over the road in a field. Francois was very excited.
A lot of the walk today was through land that they are trying to reclaim back to "natural" woodland. They've cut the fir trees down and fenced the whole area off from deer, so slowly oaks and birch etc are beginning to grow back, and lots of wildflowers all around. Doesn't look too great yet, but can see potential. Way too many ups and downs through the wood as well, which all seemed a little unnecessary at times as the path kept rejoining the same road so if had stayed on that it would have been much easier. But it's the doing the distance that counts (isn't it) and the woodland path is far nicer too.
Starting to feel colder now. Walked along the road by the side of the water. Made noises by blowing through grass stretched between thumbs. Also noticed cultural differences between Irish and English in the way that play with plantain stalks/heads. Irish use like conkers and try to knock the head off the other persons stalk, whereas we always folded the stem over and pushed it along to shoot the head off at other people! (And who said that this wouldn't be a great learning experience).
Sinead and Ronan impressed with some very nice dry stone walling. Then back in the woods and yet more bluebells, and even more ups and downs. My feet are starting to hurt a bit so hopefully we are nearly there. Feel that we've walked at least as far as did this morning, and this afternoon was only meant to be seven miles too, (or at least that's what Jon said).
Came out of the woods again and walking around another lake, with some sort of rescue attempt being made out on the water. There is a helicopter hovering out there over a boat or something. Seemed to be trying to pick somebody up. All stood and watched it. Was there for ages before finished so I wandered on ahead a bit and sat and waited. Saw the two guys from the pub at lunch (one French) just ahead.
Started getting to the point that expected to see the hotel that is near the Youth Hostel around the next bend, and it never showed. Then all very disheartened when met two guys coming the other way (at about 6pm, so this is a bit late) who said it was still another two miles!!!! All feeling a bit let down by that. We're never going to get there. A little later Eli even overcame her dislike of strawberry sweets to ask for one of my chews to keep her going! And Sinead had a half too. Things are getting bad.
Getting colder and darker and more hopeless!!!
Finally, reached a real road again and a man who said it wasn't far. Please let it be true. Saw the hotel, which meant the hostel is only 15 minutes away. Mind you seemed more like 50 as yet another vanishing building even though following the signs. Feet are definitely sore now. And finally we arrived.
Big old grey stone house on the edge of Loch Lomond. Very nice. Showered and put stuff into the wash. Drying room is very hot, so just hung it out there when done. Made beds - well put sheet liner on and pulled duvet over top - hard work. Listened to Sinead - the stick expert - and unscrewed poles completely so they could dry out.
Then, when all set, met the others in lobby and hobbled off to the hotel for dinner. (Jon didn't hobble as he feels no pain.) Ronan a bit concerned about his 'good' knee as it's hurting....
Pub was a bit lacking in character/charm, but we got our 70 shillings and the food was good. Mind you, the bar staff were a bit shirty and refused to let me have icecream on strawberry meringue instead of cream, as the strawberries would not be able to stick on! (I didn't actually care whether they stuck or not, but obviously the bar staff really do, so no go).
Checked tomorrow's route, as its a twenty mile day, to see if there are any escape points, and there are, so feel better about starting out. Eli rang Alan as he heads off to Ireland later today. Then back to the hostel. Checked on the ferry situation, and can get one from Inveranan to other side of the loch and then bus to Crainlarich (for the next night) but only a bus every three hours - so that's not so good - may have to walk it all ah my feet Room is a little small and stuffy when full of people (and gear) but bed is comfy and am tired.
