Bridge of Orchy - Kinlochleven
Trip Start
May 18, 2002
1
6
9
Trip End
May 26, 2002
Bridge of Orchy,
United Kingdom
Thursday, May 23, 2002
Eli, being the one who was determined to get up early so she could start early, then slept through her alarm (the only one who did I might add) and was then surprised to see us all moving around when she finally woke. Jon taking medicine for hangover. And I've been bitten! Lots of little red marks
Full cooked breakfast - again. Supposed to be getting it early, but took a while. Set off reasonably early (8:30) with Eli who just wants to get going (and with twenty-one miles ahead I totally agree). Three miles to Inveroman, where Jon wanted us to stay last night, but wasn't able to get space.
Headed off, heads up looking forward to these three miles. Going to be moorland today and Eli quite excited at the prospect. Feels very fresh, but going to rain soon, and fairly quickly had to stop under a tree and put jackets on. Talked politics (Middle East) - so this is the 10% of intelligent conversation that had to have this trip.
Sinead and Jon caught up with us fairly soon after we'd left the trees and were on a sort of moor. Francois somewhere in the rear. Sinead and I discovered this cute five pointed star shaped fern/flower, so we named it the `Sinanna Star', as obviously its never been seen before! Rain. Sort of miserable, as feel quite exposed up here as all a bit bare, but ok so far. The valley below, around the loch, all looks very waterlogged with long fingers of water stretching towards Inveroman.
Arrived at Inverornan really quickly, only took about an hour (now 9:30). If we can keep this up then today shouldn't be too bad. Only thing in Inveroman is the pub/B&B on the side of the road. Very cute place. Saw some of the guys who were drinking heavily last night leaving - they hiked here last night in the dark and set up camp! Eli and I had to take about photos, on about ten different cameras, of some other people who had stayed in the pub and who were just setting off. Had a rest and put on waterproof trousers. Eli has already put hers on and has her walking trousers hanging from the top of her rucksack, 'drying' (so must have done some sort of striptease on the top of the moor).
Walked along the road. Like I said, all very wet and waterlogged/flooded in places. Passed Ian Flemming's house, then through gate and off the 'main' road and onto the army road and real moorland. Apparently there were deer here. Sinead and Eli said they pointed them out to me and I made some sort of comment, but I seriously don't remember seeing any, let alone talking about them! (Do remember Eli sharing some interesting facts about her travel toilet habits).
Army road was really open, and could easily walk along together, so did a lot of singing to make it all more interesting. Eli, Sinead and I did renditions of all the musicals we could remember - Annie, My Fair Lady, Oklahoma, The Sound of Music (which then broke off into a discussion of the sexism of 'I am Sixteen'). Considering bringing out a double cd set of songs and nursery rhymes, with guest singers to fill in all the bits that we can't remember.
Saw lots of people out today, mainly as they passed us. Not that many people have full back packs on, so can feel morally superior, even as being crushed under the weight of all those little extras. Eli has been dumping stuff every place that we stop, so her bag is getting lighter and lighter - so just need there to be no bugs and the sun not to shine (think she is on to a winner there).
Planned to go hiking with Sinead (and Ronan) in Ireland and Scotland when I eventually return. Is all so close and relatively cheap to get to. And great scenery.
Pootled along by myself for a while as Jon and Eli ahead and just too far away to catch up to, and Sinead and Francois behind. Lots and lots of water around. Fast moving streams (or brooks) rushing through the grass and heather. Remarkably loud when get closer.
Cool(ish) and damp, with many showers. Tried to find somewhere to stop for a break, but all possibilities either too wet or already occupied by delightful rotting bodies (sheep etc) or it started to drizzle, so not that inviting. Eventually found somewhere and is a definite relief to put the bag down and have some chocolate, and a little comfort break behind convenient hillock (no trees).
Got to be a bit of a trudge. This bit of moorland is all open so no shelter and just went on forever - ten miles until the pub at Kingshouse. Was all starting to get very painful (especially my knee) by the time we saw any signs of buildings and a road in the distance, and I will always be grateful to Old MacDonald, and his farm, for keeping me going. Sinead and I decided he should have a more interesting mix of livestock - the obvious hens and pigs etc, but also bears and parrots. (Eli's later addition of peppers was a bit harder to find a suitable sound for - think there was some sort of communication problem there).
Finally reached Kingshouse, at about 1:30, or at least we hoped it was - had to be as there are no other buildings in sight. Very wet by the time we got there. Full of people, and everyone and everything is damp. Hung coats and trousers in the toilets and collapsed on seat. (Knee is killing me - can't bend it as it goes into spasms - want my mum). Beer, gorgeous tomato soup and bread, and Snickers helped. Feeling very soggy and is not my happiest moment...
Better when got back outside at about 2ish. Have still got miles to go so can't have too long a break. Suddenly saw Sinead and Eli run over the bridge (they have the energy to run!) without their packs. Chasing Sinead's bags rain cover (a black bin liner) that has somehow managed to escape. Missed this brilliant photo op where it was between them about ten feet up in the air, as it quickly dropped down again and fell in the river. Sinead is very sad.
Cold wind blowing, so wrapped up warmly and headed off for about three miles along country road towards the Devil's Staircase! Quite happy at first as feet have had a break and the sun is out. Not many sheep along this bit. Interesting to watch Francois try and cross all the streams (or brooks - we couldn't decide what the difference was) especially as any stepping stones that there are, are mainly under water.
Started to rain again. Very muddy bit as went back down towards the main road. My boots are starting to leak and my knee hurts and felt miserable (so there). Bit of a dodgy bit where actually had to walk along the side of the road with lorries and cars whizzing by at speed - forgotten how fast people drive over here. Rested in someone's driveway then started the long drag up to the Devil's Staircase. It's not supposed to be as bad as it sounds, but at that point I seriously thought of turning back and trying to hitch a lift as knee not so good, but managed to walk it off so ok. Definitely a drag up, but as Eli said when stopped and looked back (and up), "we're almost there".
The relief of reaching the top was amazing. Felt that we were almost there. Took a photo of us all in the rain then hobbled off downhill. Nothing much to see. Just hills and rocks - but all very impressive - definitely feels like in the highlands now.
Bit of a wide stream gushing down and the stones are under water and no other way across so Francois finally had to admit defeat and paddle. Not without complaint, as said that even though his feet had been wet before at least they had been warm and this water was icy. Very rocky path and slippery underfoot as wet, so being careful. Sticks coming in very handy. Emergency Snicker stop for energy. Starting to get late(ish) but have to be nearly there.
Came off the moorland and could sort of see buildings in the distance. Went past a hydro-electric station and now on a proper road again, so can't be far. Surprising though the road just kept going down and winding round. This is not right. Lost sight of the others, and Sinead and Eli behind, but eventually came across Jon and Francois resting at the side of the road. Lovely to sit down. They think we still have another 40 minutes or so to go, but a bloke we passed going up had said it wasn't far! Is all sunny now, so took waterproof trousers off. Bit damp inside (will definitely have to get some that breathe).
Horrible, horrible, horrible place. Could see Kinlochleven, almost touch it even, but then it vanished and moved further away. Me, Sinead and Eli were like the walking wounded returning from war. Absolutely pathetic. Jon and Francois had bounded off into the distance as if they'd just been out for a short stroll and not hiked the length and breadth of Britain. The three of us hobbled down and around, then round more corners and still the bloody town was nowhere in sight. Feet, knees, everything hurts, but all still able to laugh (albeit a trifle hysterically). Had bets on how many times we would have switchbacks in the road and we were all wrong (even me who was being the most pessimstic). Took forever and I for one was quite ready just to sit down and give up.
Finally saw Kinlochleven again and it didn't move away. Then there was Jon and Francois, and then the hostel, and Ronan waiting. And then Jon had the nerve (and energy) to run to meet him!!
Ronan only has one trouser leg attached to his shorts and very impressively wearing an elastic bandage from thigh to ankle on his other leg. Has been to a doctor today, who told him to rest it. Also has a new red top - so very productive day in Fort William.
Hostel very nice. Newly done up. Rooms very nice, three beds in each and under the eaves, and space outside the room to store stuff. Just collapsed on bed as felt dreadful. Eli very good. Thinks I'm dehydrated as really didn't drink that much water today. Soaked feet in hot water in sink and started to feel better, especially after drank all the water she forced on me. Shower was wonderful - despite have a very short timer button. Sinead and Eli put all the stuff in the drying room and put clothes into wash (wonderful people) whilst I just did the interesting invalid bit. Eli's first aid book is a little limited as it doesn't contain a description for dehydration (unless it's a special version accompanied by a headache - which I haven't got).
There is a bunk bed and a single so Eli had better not kick me in the face in the night. Sinead did suggest move the single away from the wall, but its an integral part of the structure, so can't do that.
Went out to meet the boys at the pub over the bridge. Kinlochleven seems like a nice place, with lots of buildings being renovated. Cute, sheltered in a valley with tree covered sides, and with the sun shining down and, now that I'm all clean and comfortable (apart from the limp), it's a wonderful place. Pub was very busy as there is going to be live traditional music tonight. The others had managed to get a seat round the comer, and Ronan then persuaded the nice staff to let us 'borrow' three outside seats so we could all sit. Time to get more 80 shillings, helped by chatty locals at the bar.
They have stopped serving food, so took it in turns to go to the chippy over the road (so as not to lose seats). Went first with Jon and Francois. Not the best fish and chips that I've ever had. Batter is very thick, hard and greasy (made by a Yorkshireman so what do you expect), but the chips were good and was hungry. Had to tell Francois that this should not put him off fish and chips for life as not a fair example. Couple of elderly women on the next table who waited until we were about to eat before they started talking to me. Very impressed though as they are also doing the WHW so have just finished the twenty-one mile day too, and they look much livelier than we do!
Back to the pub and sent the second installment over. Music has now started and isn't bad (although next day couldn't stop the 'Irish Rover' from playing continuously in my head). Was only going to stay for one drink as tired, but easily persuaded, Jon too, especially as Eli bought a round of whisky. Chatty old guy told us we should really have a Whisky Mac (made with ginger ale).
Started to rain again as we went back. Jon said the hostel guy said it was going to be sunny tomorrow, so let's hope so. (Nice hostel guy has put the dried washing by our door.)
