Last days in Buenos Aires

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  Buenos Aires, Argentina
Monday, February 25, 2008

On returning from Puerto Iguazu and a period of necessary R&R, we have taken a couple of day trips to various parts of the city, most notably Palermo and La Boca. Palermo is a large, upscale neighborhood, many embassies are there, and also the Museum of Latin American Art (MALBA). We enjoyed a relaxed late lunch in Chivas (named after the whiskey, there are actual display cases on the walls containing bottles of Chivas Regal) where we watched business men and well off residents of Palermo take long lunches. There was also a full formal display of a Renault Megane convertible, just like in an Auto Show, inside the restaurant!

The museum itself was less impressive - most of the galleries were closed to visitors on that day and there was only one Frida Kahlo and one Diego Rivera on display that we could find. There were several paintings by the Argentinian artist Antonio Berni, new to us, but deserving of attention.

El Caminito, La Boca

Architecturally the museum is a modern steel and glass structure interesting in itself.  Afterwards we strolled the side streets, admiring the wellkept, stylish houses on tree lined streets - former mansions that are now mostly embassies.

On a different day, we went to La Boca. We have become quite proficient users of the Subte, short for Sub Terraneo, or under ground  (the BA metro), and took it downtown and changed trains to get as close to La Boca as possible before taking a taxi to El Caminito (small street). This is a touristy block of colorfully painted buildings which nevertheless is enjoyable for itself and the effort that has gone into recreating the working class neighborhood of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Genovese immigrants brought with them the habit of painting their homes in bright colors, using paint taken from the shipyards on the nearby Rio Riachulo, along with any left over metal.  These new structures, tenements in effect, provided additional housing that was desperately needed at the time.   An artist resident and former orphan adopted by a local BA family, who had worked as a stevedore, Benito Quinquela Martin, is credited with helping preserve the neighborhood, or at least a few blocks. La Boca remains a rundown working class neighborhood and the home of the Boca Juniors, one of Argentina's top soccer teams.

El Caminito, La Boca

You will see a photo caption which has a reference to mate - this is not pronounced 'mate' but 'mateh' with the 'a' pronounced as in mat. I realise that I have not mentioned mate. A peculiarity of Argentina and Uruguay is the drinking of mate - a tea made from the Yerba Mate plant which is a relative of holly. Those who drink mate show every sign of addiction; they carry their mate cup and metal straw (bombilla) around with them and a thermos flask tucked under their arm for frequent refills. Drinking mate is a social ritual, the cup and straw is passed around to all present. At one time rich families had a servant whose sole job was to prepare mate!

The weather continues to be sunny, hot, and humid, so we were happy to take an air conditioned cab back to our apartment for an unstintingly paid $10, a journey which would have cost about $30 in Chicago, and at least 30 pounds in London.

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

Sign, El Caminito	Mural, El Caminito	Mural, El Caminito	Houses, El Caminito
Houses, El Caminito	Houses, El Caminito	Mounted Policeman, Palermo	El Caminito
Palermo	Buying painting, El Caminito	Houses, El Caminito	La Boca
Carlos Gardel, Evita, Diego Maradona	Behind el caminito	Doorway, La Boca	Playground, La Boca
La Boca	La Boca	Mural, La Boca	Tango singer, La Boca
Musician, La Boca	Gimme the ball!!	Tourist and tango dancer	Want to share my mate?
Rio Riachuelo, La Boca	Benito Quinquela Martin

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