Finally: Douala!
Trip Start
Jan 16, 2007
1
13
31
Trip End
Feb 12, 2007
Douala, Cameroon
Friday, January 26, 2007
Since I travel with a laptop and video equipment, and since I also had to pack for the European winter, I had more than the 30 kgs combined suitcase, carry-on limit, so I had to pay about $40 US extra. I find this a bit unfair, because some people don't use their full allowance, and if one used hard-shell luggage like I have to do, one reaches 30 kg in no time. For the first time this trip even Delta charged for the few kg over 20 I was when leaving the US. Sponge off the consumer for all you can seems to be the word in the airline industry these days.
The Air Madagascar flight left at 05:00 for the 2 ½ hours flight to Johannesburg. The airport was a madhouse, and I had just enough time to arrive at the next gate before the Inter Air flight left for Congo, Brazzaville. That took about 3 ½ hours. Then after an hours' layover, came the following leg to Cotonou, Benin. The flight crew only spoke English and Afrikaans (no French), so there were some interesting Babel-like communication difficulties with the passengers going from francophone Congo, to equally francophone Benin. That flight was also memorable because the young boy in the seat in front of me became ill. I noticed just in time to get my shoes out of the way. I turned the fan on my face full open to avoid the odor since that can have a domino effect on other passengers.
Arriving in Cotonou, we descended into a gray-brown cloud: the harmatan. At certain times of the year winds blow south from the Sahara carrying with them giant clouds of sand and dust. The air is heavy with humidity and gritty. The dust covers everything. From the air the buildings and streets of Cotonou all looked to be the same color. At these times of the year, respiratory problems increase dramatically since people have to breath all that dust all the time, there is no escape other perhaps than air-conditioning that somewhat filters the air.
In Benin I had a five-hour layover. They don't have real transit facilities at the small airport, so the immigration officer said he would just keep my passport, and I could find him again when I was ready to leave. I'm never comfortable without my passport, but didn't have much choice. I spent several hours in an air-conditioned bar-restaurant in the airport, until it was time to check in. Since in Madagascar they wouldn't check my suitcase all the way through, I had to collect it in Benin. Of course that meant I had to pay another excess baggage charge: $50 US this time. The price seems to be going up, the farther into Africa I go! As I made my way toward the departure lounge, the immigration official wanted to charge me 10000 CFA for a transit visa. I explained that I hadn't left the airport and that I shouldn't be required to pay for transit visa. He sent me to the head police office where I had to explain again. Finally the officers agreed to let me go without paying. After a confusing wait in the departure lounge (no announcements are made and there are no signs, travelers have to constantly ask: is this my flight that is leaving? After getting in the wrong line 3 times, I finally got in the right one for my flight to Douala. The Air Ivoire flight actually left within a few minutes of on time which was a bit amazing: 4 flights around the continent and all of them (nearly) on time!
I finally arrived in Douala, Cameroon my destination about 23:00, which was 02:00 Madagascar time. Several church members met me at the airport and accompanied me to my usual hotel catching up on the news as we drove through the dark streets. I thanked them, checked in and talked briefly on the phone with Marjolaine to let her know I arrived safely and am very ready to sleep after a 26-hour non-stop day!
