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Landing in Normandy
Entry 7 of 31 | show all | print this entry |
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This morning after a quick breakfast I headed for Normandy. I had two visits to make in this green and fertile region. I stopped for lunch at the town of Les Andelys which is right on the Seine. It is famous for the ruined castle overlooking the town and the river.
The Château Gaillard was constructed on the orders of King Richard the Lionheart. We often think of Richard being an English king, which of course he was, but he was also Duke of Normandy, and didn't actually speak English, which was considered a backward and uncivilized language at the time.
As a cultured man (and a Norman) he spoke French! Richard had the castle constructed on the heights, with a good view of the Seine going both directions, as a protection against Vikings that sometimes raided up the river, rowing up even as far as Paris for pillage and plunder. It's still a very impressive place, and since it was a sunny day under blue skies, the vista was stunning.
I drove by the restaurants in town and found one, on the banks of the river, noticeably surrounded by cars. That's the one I chose. It was a working-class restaurant offering an excellent lunch deal. For 12 Euros one could have a four-course meal: a salad-bar first course (salad bars are catching on in France now), followed by either pork chops, baked ham or beefsteak with choice of vegetables, a cheese platter with half a dozen different kinds of French cheese to which we could help ourselves, and a wide choice of deserts like crème brulé, chocolate cake, tarte normande and several others. Even wine was included à volonté (meaning as much as you want) in the price. Not bad for 12 Euros (a McDonald's value meal here will set you back 8 Euros). The place was so popular that they were filling all the chairs at every table, so I joined a table where a couple of construction workers had already started their meal, and soon we were joined by another fellow as well. Everyone in the place seemed to know each other; they all (except me), seemed to be calling each other tu which is the informal (and singular) way to call someone you in French. That form is not used with strangers, only good friends known a long while. Even the patron, was addressed as tu. We used to have a tu form in English: thee, thou, and thine that are found in Shakespeare and the King James Bible were singular pronouns. The word you we use now for everyone, singular or plural, used to be only for plural usage. Enough grammar, let's get back to lunch. The food was quite good, and I enjoyed unobtrusively listening in on the conversations around me. It was pretty hard not to hear them because we were packed in pretty tightly. There was lots of joking and teasing between the owner, his wife, the servers, and the clientele. The French in general really enjoy the dining experience, and try to make the most of it even if it's just a work-day lunch. After lunch, I drove on, passing the city of Rouen along the way. It was in the central square in front of the Rouen Cathedral that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. In the fields along the highway, the architecture of the houses became typically of Normandy: long, low, split-beam houses (the construction style we sometimes think of as Tudor) with slate roofs, dotted the landscape. I arrived in a quaint Norman village near the Seine, where I had a very enjoyable visit with a family I've know for nearly 25 years. We used to work at Youth Camps together in France, including one that was hosted on the farm plot around their house. We walked around the grounds and reminisced about the camps held there years ago, for children who are now grown up and have children of their own. Time flies. I continued on a few more hours to Bayeux, where the famous Bayeux Tapestry was woven, and where it is now displayed in an excellent museum. It recounts the rousing story of the Norman Invasion of England in 1066, when the Duke of Normandy, William (later known as the Conqueror but earlier known as the Bastard - not because he was unpleasant, but simply because his mother was not legally married to his father) beat Harold, the sitting King of England, at the battle of Hastings - thereby taking over the throne of England. The present English Royal Family is descended from William.
Tomorrow I plan to check on some arrangements for the 2009 Feast of Tabernacles which we plan to hold in the Normandy resort town of Portbail on the Western shore of the Cotentin peninsula, and then I should drive on to spend the evening with Daniel and Cindy Harper near Cherbourg.
Latest Comments (3)
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Great information (reply) May 2, 2008 22:10 EST by mdevans333
Hi Joel,
I've been reading your log for about one hour. It is my first time ever. I love the way you incorporate cultural aspect, history, visits with members ... into your log. It is fascinating and captivating! I think that you should, one day -- maybe at retirement -- put all these logs together into a book.
Marguerite
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hey dad!! (reply) Apr 19, 2008 16:45 EST by fmeeker
Well, first off I want to tell you that your pics are beautiful, as always!! You have so much talent in photography, among the many other things you're good at!! And some of those town names sounded pretty familiar, Rouen, Bayeaux.. Bringing back lots of memories!! lots of love,
Fiona
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Great photos (reply) Apr 16, 2008 09:31 EST by maryhendren
Hi Joel,
Thanks for the interesting comments and historical references. Hope your plans for FOT arrangements go smoothly and you continue to have beautiful picture-taking weather.
Regards,
Mary
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