Jodi_nelan's travel blogs:
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Vegetarians Beware!
Entry 4 of 16 | show all | print this entry |
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After Mexico City, I took a very expensive bus down to Oaxaca (oh-HOCK-ca), a town I planned to visit last winter. Those plans, though, had been thwarted by violents political protests that had effectively shut the city down.
Oaxaca is a touristy colonial town with a couple of great town squares and extensive markets. The squares are lovely with trees, benches, children playing, and colorful gardens, and they are flanked by expensive hotels and restaurants. Walking around, I couldn´t help but wonder how many tourists confine their visits to the squares and the few streets dedicated to high-end shops. It seems a shame as there is so much authentic life to see.
The day after I arrived, I caught a bus to Tlacolula (lock-OH-lou-la) for the Sunday market. If you haven´t noticed already, I am a market-a-holic. And I´ve decided that if the social work thing doesn´t pan out, I´ll be a buyer for free trade/ sustainable commerce retail stores.
I just love wondering around and talking to folks about what they are selling. ¨What is that used for? Did you make it? What town are you from?¨ All you have to do is start off with, ¨Estoy solo mirando¨ -- I´m only looking-- and then you´re free to chat away.
After exploring the market, I headed up to the cathedral where people were filing in for mass. I went in, too, mainly because they were handing out branches at the door, and I thought something special might be going on. I soon found myself in the middle of a pew, sandwiched between some old ladies and a family. Behind me, people kept coming and coming until the aisles and the doorways were all packed. At that point, I realized I was in for the long haul-- gracefully ducking out was no longer a possibility.
I´m not too familiar with American Catholic services, but I doubt they feature a brass band and synchronized fireworks. I´m also pretty sure they lack the SRO turnout. Seeing all this, I begin to think about my time in Guatemala when Pope John Paul the somethingth died. Just below the mourning was a sincere hope that the next pope would be from Latin America. He wouldn´t be. The heart of the Church is in the developing world, but the hand remains in Europe.
Anyway, all that standing/ sitting/ kneeling got me hungry, so I headed over to the comedor (eatery) section of the market. Most of the comedors consist of a little kitchen surrounded by counters and benches. I chose one that met my (not so strict) criteria. It shall be busy with friendly looking people who are eating things that look yummy, and there shall be enough room for me to sit.
The comedor I chose had but one thing on the menu: soup. As I ate, I become increasingly puzzled by the meat floating within. It looked like chicken skin, but the texture was like a slightly tough and chewy fat. Turns out, it was menudo. Also known as tripe or the cow´s first stomach. I know a lot of you are crinkling your noses right now, but come on, if your going to eat one part of the animal, why not eat the other parts, too? Besides, it was good (aside from the odd texture). In between chicken and beef, slightly smoky.
The next day I went to an archaeological site (very cool), and then it was into the market comedors to find some mole (mole-EH). A speciality in this region, mole is a chocolate-based sauce you serve over meat, usually chicken. Needless to say, it´s friggin´delicious. I practically licked my plate clean.
Making my way through the market for the last time, a peculiar booth caught my attention. It was nothing but huge baskets filled with various dried insects.
¨What are those for? Do you eat them?¨ I asked.
¨Yes, in quesadillas!¨ And insect vendor motioned over to a woman with a basket full of quesadillas for sale.
Uh oh, I ate two of those my my first day here.
In all fairness, the Cricket Quesadillas were pretty good. Spicy and filling.
I am tempted to write that in the future I will put more effort into finding out what I´m eating before it goes into my mouth. But doesn´t that take all the fun out of it? Besides, insects are the one thing I´ve always said I wouldn't eat, and now I have. From today onward, I fear no food.
As charming as Oaxaca is, I`m leaving after two nights. It`s really hot here, a dry heat that leaves me woozy by midafternoon. Also, it`s a bit too touristy for me. I don`t mind the backpacker/ bohemian types, but the tourists here are the suitcase/ pack-a-hairdryer type. And if that makes me sound like a snob, so be it. My apologies.
Question time! If you HAD to choose the following to eat, what would it be?
a) Menudo Soup
b) Cricket Quesadilla
c) Both a & b!
Latest Comments (7)
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Re: Cow's stomach for sure! (reply)
Jul 8, 2007 12:00 EST by jodi_nelan
They weren´t crunchy though...they were ground up in cornmeal. I didn´t even know I was eating crickets at the time. They tricked me!!!
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In reply to:
Again, it sounds like you are having a marvelous time on your travels.
I would choose to eat the cow thing, as we eat cow anyway so it doesn't sound so disgusting. Bugs just g... show all
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Re: both (reply)
Jun 15, 2007 16:22 EST by jodi_nelan
Yea!! Jo got the right answer!
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In reply to:
TRY EVERYTHING AT LEAST ONES IN YOUR LIFE
(foodwise that is)
so, my answer is both a & B
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Re: Yum Yum (reply)
Jun 15, 2007 16:20 EST by jodi_nelan
No one will ever come to our house for Thanksgiving if this stuff is on the menu!
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In reply to:
Is this the choices for Thanksgiving this year? You know how Mom loves a good recipe!
I would dig into the soup, but would only eat the bugs if I didn't know what they were or was really drunk.
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Yum Yum (reply)
Jun 7, 2007 09:30 EST by knelan
Is this the choices for Thanksgiving this year? You know how Mom loves a good recipe!
I would dig into the soup, but would only eat the bugs if I didn't know what they were or was really drunk.
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Cow's stomach for sure! (reply)
Jun 5, 2007 19:51 EST by gingwilliams
Again, it sounds like you are having a marvelous time on your travels.
I would choose to eat the cow thing, as we eat cow anyway so it doesn't sound so disgusting. Bugs just gross me out and I'm not sure I could handle the crunchiness of a cricket. I'd probably upchuck.
Ging
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both (reply)
Jun 5, 2007 18:28 EST by jorisvc
TRY EVERYTHING AT LEAST ONES IN YOUR LIFE
(foodwise that is)
so, my answer is both a & B
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HOLA (reply)
Jun 5, 2007 18:24 EST by kristadrake
Hey Jodi!!!
Sounds like you're having a geat time!! I always read your entries outloud to Chris and we LOVE them. Not only are your travels so exciting, but your writing is AMAZING!!! To answer your question, Chris and I decided on the cow soup...Eating bugs freak me out!!
Hope to hear from you soon. Happy travels!!! We are so jealous of you, 9 to 5 jobs are for the birds. Totally ove... show all
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