Am I on Mars?

Trip Start May 29, 2005

Trip End Dec 17, 2005

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Flag of Tunisia Redeyef, Tunisia
Friday, December 9, 2005

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02 Dec, Friday
Start point: Tattouine
End point: Ksar Ouled Soltane
Via: Chenini, Douiret, Ksar Ouled Soltane
Odom(Km): 85.90
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.24
Ave(Km/h): 17.8
Total Ascent(m): 908
Max Altitude(m) 550
Max Speed(Km/h): 53.4

I woke up to no rain or fog so it was time to get moving again. First stop, Chenini. This hilltop village is the largest of such an example. The small houses were used as modest dwellings or for grain and oil storage. Climbed up to the top exploring the insides of these huts whose stone surfaces are warn smooth from centuries of use. I squeezed through a tiny opening in the wall to find myself standing amongst giant amphora filled with oil and grain. There was a collection of old farming implements, tin cup, enamel bowl and lots of esparto grass baskets. The contents have not been touched for many years and the olive oil had a bit of a stale smell to it.
A few photos later I returned to the bike and continued to Douiret. This is similar to Chenni and again allowed more creeping around looking into peoples houses to see how they lived - I guess crouched most of the time!
Then to Ksar Ouled Soltane - famous for its 2 courtyards towering up to 4 stories high. By the time I got here the place was deserted and it was in the advanced stages of getting dark. I peered into a couple and saw one that looked clean, dry and had a door. This would make a great place to camp down for the night I thought. So I did.

Spot the black sheep

Chenini

Douiret

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03 Dec, Saturday
Start point: Ksar Ouled Soltane
End point: Toujane
Via: Medenine, Matameur
Odom(Km): 96.00
Moving(hrs.mim):
Ave(Km/h):
Total Ascent(m):
Max Altitude(m)
Max Speed(Km/h):

Ate breakfast watching the sun cast its early morning shadows over the organically shaped ghorfas. Carried by a strong wind I made it effortlessly into Medenine for a lunch stop of my favouate soup - Lablabi. Didn't do any exploring as the town was busy and I wanted to press on. Near by is the little town of Matameur and its ksar. Chatted to the man who was renovating some of the ghorfas into bedrooms.The setup was similar to Ksar Hallouf and looked quite pleasant and welcoming. Stayed for mint tea and chatted to two Spaniards who turned up. Now against the wind, my speed dropped from 33 to 11Km/h, and more effort was required - such is the power of the wind. Made it to the hills before finding a camp spot sheltered in a compensation dam - hope it doesn't rain tonight!

Early mrning over Ksar Ouled Soltane

Matameur and my Tea companion

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04 Dec, Sunday
Start point: Toujane
End point: Matmata
Odom(Km): 54.00

A gusty wind kept me awake, and it was nothing to do with the large quantity of dates I have been eating. As I was close to Matmater I decided to sleep in and was ready to go at a tardy 8.30am. The route from Metameur to Toujane to Ain Tounine to Beni Zelten was superb, with sweeping views across the eroded Mars like landscape down to the plains below and ending in the blue gleam of the distant east coast. Passed through villages containing some interesting architecture. The area is well known for its underground dwellings built by the Barbers - indigenous North Africans. They are a series big holes in the ground connected by passageways. Off the holes are rooms, and it is in one of these I am staying tonight. Its claim to fame is it is where they filmed the Starwars - Luke's home where he lived with his foster parents. I ate dinner in the courtyard surrounded by bits of the original set - close up it's a real Blue Peter affair!

Try and fun a bush to pee in here

Sarwars hotel in Matmata

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05 Dec, Monday
Start point: Matmata
End point: Douz
Odom(Km): 99.00

After Tamezret, a pretty stone village, the road passes through no villages until Douz. I peddled on and stopped at a cafe for water were a few fellow tourists had assembled. Arranged to meet up with Ken, a friendly Brit - the first one I've met outside Tunis. The other was a member of the delegation at the presidents summit who I asked to take a photo at Carthage.
After some fairly monotonous pedalling and more learn French with Michelle Thomas, I arrived and pitched up. Ken arrived on cue and suggested we find beer. The evening was going to be fun. A meal and a good chat in a language other than French was just what I needed.

Typical village

Typical goat

Typical sunset

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06 Dec, Tuesday
Start point: Douz
End point: Kebili
Odom(Km): 107.00

Set off on a circular tour of the area west of Douz via El Faouar and soon bumped into two fun Italian cycle tourers, Mark and Marko. I soon saw Ken who was sipping coffee in a roadside cafe - it all happens at once out here! After a brief chat with Ken I rejoined the pack for a route that took us through small villages, palmaries, dunes ended at an expansive salt lake. Young boys were again causing problems enroute. In Kebeli we located the youth hostel and 6TD, 2.20 pounds secured us a base from which we ventured forth into to the night. The eatery we found had a chicken rotisserie - spit roast chicken which went down well. Then engaged in the all male cafe culture by sitting out on the street, drinking tea and smoking the sheish watching the world go by.

'Finger of light' dates still on the tree

Passing down a branch of dates

Sorting

Sunset on the way to Kebili

Mark and Marko relaxing in the local style

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07 Dec, Wednesday
Start point: Kebili
End point: Tozeur
Via: Tozeur
Odom(Km): 94.00

It is difficult to describe to someone who has not cycled into the wind for a whole day how draining it can be. They always imagine hills are the challenge - which they are but have a maximum height and an added bonus of the views and a downhill part. I expected a stiff headwind crossing the vast salt lake of Chott El Jerid but no - it was very calm and even slightly in our favour. Stopping mostly for photos and a lunch that included one of my favourite (and Marko's) snack called horn of the Gazelle. It's a package of near transparent sweet pastry stuffed with a honey soaked nut mix - and of course it is in the shape of a horn.
Following the rains that had completely submerged the Douz campsite, all the salt in the salt lake had dissolved and where there had been white as far as the eye could see, now there was only water.
Lunch over we continued into Tozeur where I unpacked in the bungalow on the campsite. Marko and Mark checked into a hotel off the main street. Sampled more cafe culture and a then recharged in a restaurant where I had a very tasty local speciality. Back to a cafe and more sheesha before we parted. My plans are to cover more ground tomorrow so I said my farewells to Mark and Marko, a relaxed, fun and witty pair.

Faster Faster

Marko

Salt lake of Chott El Jerid

Lunch break. We didn't need any salt - look behind.

Lake break

Entering Touzeur

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08 Dec, Thursday
Start point: Tozeur
End point: Redeyef
Via: Tamerza, Mides
Odom(Km): 96.00

Up and on the road for the sunrise over Tozeur. Took the turnoff Towards Tamerza which took me across a salt lake and past a camel crossing point. In the distance a mountain range of red folded rocks loomed ever closer and provided a spectacular backdrop on my right hand side. Crossing the range was no great challenge but was slow progress due to the number of spectacular photo opportunities. Deep gorges run through the mountains and in one place a cascade of water emerged into an inviting pool. It was difficult to miss due to the number of souvenir stalls next to it. In summer this place is going to be a magnate for those wanting to cool off, but in winter it's just a bit too cool for me to contemplate.
Then through the town of Tamerza and lunched overlooking the ruined old town. Next stop, Mides, 1Km away from the Algerian border. It was washed away by freak rains in the 1960s and the occupants decided to rebuild elsewhere - this time using cement instead of mud. I walked around the abandoned village with collapsing or collapsed houses. The old village is perched on the edge of a gorge where they filmed the English patient. Walked into the gorge looking for caves, but found none - I couldn't explore much as a river ran through the middle.
Camped up just before Redeyef in a dried up river and settled down when I heard a flock of sheep and shepherd in the distance. He stopped to talk, the only problem being his 130 sheep carried on walking. He asked if he could return later to which I agreed. This gave me time to update my journal with the last few days and prepare for tomorrow.
Ammar returned with a friend, BouBoker. The were both very laid back and friendly. We started a camp fire, drank coffee and talked about the practicalities of living so close to the border. Ammar showed me the two SIMM cards he carries around for his mobile. "If I want to talk to my Algerian friends, I use this one. If I want to talk to my Tunisian friends I use this one". He like me would otherwise suffer from the extortionately high costs of international phone calls which dwarf what we pay in Europe. International pre-pay cards are not available here as the phone service is a government monopoly with a great earner they wish to protect.
He also regularly sneaks across the border at night to visit friends on the other side. They showed how to write my name in Arabic and we spent a pleasant evening by the glow of the fire and the light of the moon.