Olympia, Mikines, Mystras, Sparta - Its non stop!

Trip Start May 29, 2005

Trip End Dec 17, 2005

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Flag of Greece Olympia, Greece
Sunday, October 30, 2005

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20 Oct, Thursday
Start point: Nafplio
End point: Agh. Triada
Via: Palamedes fort, Nafplio town
Odom(Km): 24.87
Moving(hrs.mim): 1.48
Ave(Km/h): 13.8
Total Ascent(m): 206
Max Altitude(m) 195
Max Speed(Km/h): 52.6

Spent most of the night being dive bombed by hungry mosquitoes as I tried to sleep. I left the tent open while I ate dinner. Awoke to covered in bites and surrounded by big fat mozzies bloated with blood struggling to fly. I took great pleasure squashing them.
Then to the fort that towers 220 metres over the port town of Nafplio. Built between 1686-1715 it was a maze of walkways, vaults, corridors and watchtowers. I spent a few hours walking around the site admiring the fantastic views over the town, port, sea and mountains. Then into town and toured the narrow backstreets and hidden squares. This town has much to offer, despite the rather busy traffic in parts. I found an internet cafe to update the last 2 1/2 weeks of journal entries and it was soon time to find a camp spot.

View of the fort from main town square

Looking down from the fort

Exploring

Backstreets of

Overlooking the port defences

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21 Oct, Friday
Start point: Agh. Triada
End point: Zaritsi Bay, near Paralia Tyrou
Via: Mikines
Odom(Km): 85.19
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.16
Ave(Km/h): 16.1
Total Ascent(m): 751
Max Altitude(m) 193
Max Speed(Km/h): 48.9

A cool and damp start reminded me of the times I set off in the mornings at the end of July. Fully warmed up, I soon reached Mikines, near the town of Mycenae. This walled city dates from the second millennium BC, thats 4000 years old! If you are familiar with Homer (and I'm not talking about the Simpsons) then it was described as a city 'rich in gold'. The Mycenaeans established a number of walled settlements, each ruled by a king - this was a big one. I visited the tomb of the king - and had lots of fun with the echo in the domed chamber. Then toured the walled city, of which little survives except foundations. The museum has a good collection of excavated finds and even decorated plaster work from some of the houses.
After tour complete I headed to the coast road for a superb 4 hours of cycling along a road with unsurpassed coastal views and relatively little traffic. I have the rather disturbing habit of stopping of at supermarkets and buying something very sugary - today I saw 6 cornettos for 1.30 Euro. I ate the lot followed by a 200g packet of crisps in the car park. Its just one of the many bad habits I have picked up on my travels.
Found a closed campsite on a beach - in fact everything is closed. I have not seen a single person since arriving. It is the low season after all.

Mikines from afar

Tomnb of the king - with dome interior

Enterence gate to the city

bural chamber

ruins of the city

Pasage way to underground spring

Coastal view
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22 Oct, Saturday
Start point: Zaritsi Bay, near Paralia Tyrou
End point: Agh. Anargyri
Via:
Odom(Km): 81.40
Moving(hrs.mim): 6.27
Ave(Km/h): 12.6
Total Ascent(m): 1628
Max Altitude(m) 1205
Max Speed(Km/h): 53.6

Followed the coast road for yet more superb views then headed inland to cross a ridge of mountains . On the way up the road snaked its way to a height of 1200 metres in the shadow of Mt. Parnonas, a peak of 1839. The monastry of Eloinis provided a halfway rest point. The terrain plateaued at 1000 metres and ran through damp pine forests. For every climb there is a descent - and this was 900 metres and fast. At the bottom olive groves rule the landscape.

Fly tipping is the biggest detraction from Greece. Find a superb view, look down and this is what you see.

The monastery of Eloinis

The only way is up

Hilltop villages

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23 Oct, Sunday
Start point: Agh. Anargyri
End point: Mystras
Via: Sparta, Mystras
Odom(Km): 37.80
Moving(hrs.mim): 2.33
Ave(Km/h): 14.8
Total Ascent(m): 431
Max Altitude(m) 375
Max Speed(Km/h): 51.5

Continued the last couple of Km from where I camped to the major town in the area, Sparta. This is a place famous for its elite warrior class, the Spartiates. From the 9C to 4C B.C they were the landowners and holders of government posts. The approach to the town which is nestled in a valley was breathtakingly beautiful. I couldn`t dream a more beautiful landscape - maybe it has something to do with the high rainfall the place receives but the odd shower did little to damp my impression of the place.
Ancient Sparta was abandoned in 371BC and the modern city has little in common. As I toured I noticed a number of digs in different parts of the city reveiled a large complex of foundations of the old town. Where better to find out more than the archeology museum. Like many museums, it told me very little about the site I was standing on. Ancient Sparta is a place dripping with history, full of fantastic stories and a unique way of life. At the 20th item in the museum that said "Pot, 5C BC" I gave up and continued to my next destination, Mystra.
Mystra is a hilltop Byzantine city full of churches, monastery, houses and a citadel. At its peak 42000 inhabitants were crammed in the city walls but wars and power struggles lead to its abandonment around 1820. Many of the buildings are now romantic ruins and very photogenic. Walking the whole site requires a level of fitness, so the devout catholics with their stilettos and D&G sunglasses only made it to the lower churches to make their offerings and I was left with the site to myself. I walked to the top where the last fortifications are without seeing anybody. Check out the pictures for the view from the top and on the way up.
Camped on a campsite! First time for ages. I regretted it as soon as I paid the 7 Euro. The owner has 3 dogs and of course the site was strewn with dog sh"t. I though I found a clear spot and as soon as I started cooking the smell hit me - under the chopping board was a rotting pile that had melted into the soil.

Overlooking the valley on the way to Sparta

Mystra

Basilicas

Ruined Palace

Ruined houses

Deserted back streets

View from the top - its a long way from the bottom of the city to the top!

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24 Oct, Monday
Start point: Mystras
End point: Kotronas
Via: Gythio
Odom(Km): 78.07
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.57
Ave(Km/h): 15.7
Total Ascent(m): 840
Max Altitude(m) 308
Max Speed(Km/h): 49.9

Exited the campsite and spent time in a Sparta internet cafe. Printed out pictures taken on the cargo ship "Trader I" to post to the crew as promised. I talked to the shop owner and outlined my plans to reach the tip of the peninsula. He gave me some useful information. The east side is wild - both the people and the terrain. The west coast is pretty. Also there is a celebration to mark the blocking of the passage of the Italians during the second world war on the 28th of October. After much messing around I continued down the east coast of the Mani peninsula to Gythio, an attractive port town. Then through small villages and beaches until the sun dipped below the horizon.

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25 Oct, Tuesday
Start point: Kotronas
End point: Cape Matapan
Via:
Odom(Km): 51.63
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.19
Ave(Km/h): 11.9
Total Ascent(m): 1197
Max Altitude(m) 403
Max Speed(Km/h): 51.0

Reached the southern most part of mainland Greece, Akri Tainaro. The further south, the more wild the landscape and the locals become. Vendettas played a big role in village life and the building style reflects this. Many of the old houses resemble mini forts! The basic plan is a square tower of 3-4 stories and no windows on the ground floor, there are even crenellations on the top. A Greek mans home IS his castle. Complete absence of traffic on the road and its twisting, climbing and decending path provide exellent cycling terrain. The weather is hot and I even had to dig out my sweat band for the more challenging climbs! On reaching the southern most tip I camped next to the temple of Poseidon, now a site of a ruined church. The alter is strewn with coins illuminated by an oil lamp. On the slopes in front are hunters shouting orders at their dogs and firing shotguns that echo around the bay area. I hope they are gone by the time I sleep - and I don't end up as fair game!

Villages with towers are common

Many ancient churches can be found

The very tip of southern Greece

Site of the Temple of Poseidon

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26 Oct, Wednesday
Start point: Cape Matapan
End point: Saxoneika
Via: Vathia, Diros Cave
Odom(Km): 70.99
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.39
Ave(Km/h): 12.5
Total Ascent(m): 1371
Max Altitude(m) 376
Max Speed(Km/h): 51.7

The southern tip of Greece is sparsely populated. Nowhere demonstrates this best than a mostly deserted village called Vathia. I wandered around, walking into houses that had been deserted between 30-80 years. Many were in a poor state of repair with collapsed floors and those that were intact had to be trodden on with care. The village is consists almost entirely of towers and small out buildings. I wandered around in the early morning sun looking for evidence of habitation. Old harths with cooking pots, photos, gas lamps, outside toilets, old clothing. With absolutely nobody in sight it was a very strange experience. High up on a hill, the wind whipped around the buildings - if I lived there I would insist on double glazing - those that can't afford it I guess just moved out!
Then continued up the west cost of the Mani peninsular. It is time to pick olives - everyone is out with nets, bashing and combing the branches of the trees. Stopped by a mill where the farmers brought their olives and for a small fee, the mill turned them into oil. It was an industrial operation - although the big stone wheels still did the crushing. Even though ripe, the olives can't be eaten from the tree, irrespective of how black and jucy they look, the taste bitter and unpleasant. My dreams of finding an abandoned olive grove where I could binge to my hearts content have been shattered.
Then to Diros Caves, and a 2km journey under ground. I had lots of questions to ask about the geology, flow of the underground rivers, their discovery and exploration, modification made to them to accommodate visitors, persons missing etc.. but the guide apologetically said "No speak English Mr." I kept quiet and enjoyed the ride - but learned little - much like my many visits to museums.
Camped in a Olive grove 300 metres above the sea that crashes against the rocks far below. In the dark my torch reflected back on some eyes near my tent. I went closer to investigate - a moth, small rodent?... no it was a big and hairy brown spider - another reminder to keep my zip firmly shut.

Vathia from the distance

Touring the ruins

Interior of a house - not the gas lighting

Olive press

Harvest time for the olives

Modern olive processing - goods inwards

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27 Oct, Thursday
Start point: Saxoneika
End point: Kalamata
Via:
Odom(Km): 87.49
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.39
Ave(Km/h): 15.5
Total Ascent(m): 935
Max Altitude(m) 449
Max Speed(Km/h): 56.8

More following the coast road. In places it clings to the side of a steep mountain with a 400 metre drop to the sea below. Looking down at the specks of the boats gives an idea of height. On my way I got talking to a Greek man who lived for many years in Australia and owns a bike shop in a near by town. He was astonished at my journey. "I thought it was too far to go by plane to England" he exclaimed. Stopped by an olive oil processing plant to fill a 33cl bottle - When I asked how much I owed him he laughed and said it was free. Judging by the size of the vat he filled it from, I guess they are used to dealing in much larger quantities! I purchased some bread and for lunch I simply broke the bread, still warm, and dipped it in the freshly pressed oil - it was DELICIOUS. Passed through some beautiful coastline dotted with cyprus tress and olive groves. Ending up in the town of Kalamata, the size of which caught me unawares when looking for a camp spot - the urban sprawl went on for a long way - even through an Albanian shanty town which I didn't expect to see in Greece. It had been destroyed in 1986 by a massive earthquake and rebuilt. It showed.

Planning their escape when the bird flu hits

What a diverse range of sea life - now sea food.

The coast road

One of my many food stops - delicious bread and a puff pastry filled with feta cheese.

Let me try making one

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28 Oct, Friday
Start point: Kalamata
End point: Kefalovrysi
Via:
Odom(Km): 74.27
Moving(hrs.mim): 6.25
Ave(Km/h): 11.6
Total Ascent(m): 1833
Max Altitude(m) 931
Max Speed(Km/h): 50.0

It is a holiday and there is a festive spirit in the air. In the second world war the Italians tried to force passage through Greece and were repelled. This victory is celebrated today with parades, meals and general enjoyment. The larger towns with government representation played stirring marching music at high volume in the square. Many of the towns folk sit in the cafes catching up on the gossip.
As I exited the village of Paleokastro I heard shouts coming from one of the houses, "You there, where are you from?", "Would you like a drink?". Halfway through a 600 metre climb, I gladly accepted the offer. Many generations of the family were enjoying the warm weather, a fine view and lively conversation. Some had lived in Australia for many years and the young lad had a good grasp of English so there was no language problem. They were all very friendly and we talked about my route, life in Australia and the kit I brought for my tour. When I motioned to leave, I was told to sit down and more members of the family emerged from the kitchen with a feast. I was invited to help myself. The food was fantastic and many of the ingredients sourced locally or grown / made / laid on the premises - This includes the wine. After the meal I was passed half a loaf of bread, a huge block of feta cheese, 3 giant red apples and a banana to help me with my onward journey. They were a big family with an even bigger heart.
The onward journey proved difficult due to the fact my map does not show some of the newly widened roads and I took the only way shown on my map through Kalogeresi and Aetos - which involved a very difficult climb of 600 metres up a dirt track to an altitude of nearly 1000 metres above sea level. As a result I didn't make to where I wanted to be and I will need to press on tomorrow if I wish to visit Olimpiya. Stumbled upon an interesting monastery on the way.

Morning rise

Morning goat

Village gossip during celebrations

Tuck in!

Bike theft in progress - remarkably well ridden for a first timer!

Hilltop monastery

Telekinetic bail throwing competition

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29 Oct, Saturday
Start point: Kefalovrysi
End point: Krestena
Via: Figalia, Vasses
Odom(Km): 72.07
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.35
Ave(Km/h): 12.9
Total Ascent(m): 1433
Max Altitude(m) 1161
Max Speed(Km/h): 51.9

More mountains to please the eye and tire the legs. Stopped at Figalia to wander found the ruins of an ancient walled town. Found the fountain and temple ruins but much of the stone has been reused. Then to Vasses, a Greek temple to Apollo built in 420 B.C on a plateau of Mount Palivolatiza at an altitude of 1130 metres. The ride up took some time and towards the top I had to put waterproofs on to keep warm. Although not the most impressive in size this temple is well preserved and an effort to conserve and rebuild much of it has been underway for the last 20 years. It is currently in a shelter to protect it from rain and ice damage. The internal frieze was auctioned and purchased by the British Museum - like so many things I have visited, I can get to see the best parts right at home. Coming down the mountain was fun fun fun . Camped in an olive grove after following the road to Pyrgos.

Vasses

Interesting ancient settlements are still visible, and some still in use.

Autumn colours

Beast of burden

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30 Oct, Sunday
Start point: Krestena
End point: Agrapidochori, near Simopoulo
Via: Olympia
Odom(Km): 74.96
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.41
Ave(Km/h): 16.0
Total Ascent(m): 933
Max Altitude(m) 231
Max Speed(Km/h): 54.4

The first Olympic games were held in 8C B.C on this site and continued until the were banned by Theodosius as a pagan cult in 393 A.D. An interesting fact is that the worship of Zeus was central to the affair and in a large temple stood one of the 7 wonders of the world, a 13.5 metre high statue of Zeus made from chryselephantine, seated on a throne of ebony and ivory. After the games were abolished the statue was carried off to Constantinople (now Istanbul) where it perished in a great fire. The site fell into disrepair and massive earthquake finished the job off destroying the temple, scattering the columns in a dramatic fashion on the ground.
The museum is great. The pediments of the temple of Zeus have been excavated and reconstructed in a large room. Many statues from the fountains are on display along with armour, helments, weapons, and everyday items. Information gives a context to the finds on display - a simple and basic requirement that every museum should have, but so few do.
I toured the site and found the local park / square for lunch. As luck would have it the shade was provided by orange trees that were starting to ripen. Guess what my lunch consisted of?? Needless to say I overdosed on vitamin C.
Then onwards to Patra where I get the boat to Italy. The route I took passed through villages, countryside abundant with pine, figs, vineyards, walnut, cyprus, olive, sheep, goats and lush green grass. Finished near a lake and camped in the dried up river bed. Lots of sticks to burn on the camp fire, grassy and flat. I only hope it doesn't rain tonight!