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Cyprus - island under construction
Entry 16 of 25 | show all | print this entry |
Chapter Summary
Central Turkey
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03 Oct, Monday
Start point: Alanya
End point: Girne (Kyrenia)
Cycled the now familiar streets of Alanya until 11.00am and waited for the ferry. Security checks, sniffer dogs, baggage scanning, police, immigration, fences, etc.. were more suited to an airline than a short 4 hour boat trip! The bike was stripped of its luggage and reassembled for transportation onto the ferry. Once sailing we belted along at 43Km/h to Cyprus on some choppy seas. There were a few pale faces to be seen. Chatted to a Pole who was a traveling musician - traveling for a period of 11 years. Where he had not been!...
Girne has one nice part - the harbour and castle. The rest is a traffic choked nightmare from morning to night. Ques of cars, lorries and cement trucks inch their way along the high street polluting the place with fumes, dust and above all - NOISE. My mission was to buy a map and find a camp spot. Like Turkey, I failed on the first goal - an in the dusk cycled out of town to find a quiet spot to camp for the night.
Boat crossing
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04 Oct, Tuesday
Start point: Girne (Kyrenia)
End point: Besparmak (10K east of Girne)
Via: Girne, Bellapais
Odom(Km): 20.97
Moving(hrs.mim): 1.41
Ave(Km/h): 12.3
Total Ascent(m): 336
Max Altitude(m) 228
Max Speed(Km/h): 39.7
Back to the traffic chaos that is Girne. Again, like Turkey people don't read much and finding a real bookshop - not a stationers is very difficult. There were two I found after lots of asking, following directions and getting lost. Neither were in the town centre but on roads leading out of town and they of course only sold Tourist maps.
First stop on the tourist trail, the harbour castle. An impressive fort built in many stages from the 7th Century and continually modified up to to the British governership in the 19th Century. I spent a few hours wandering the passages, climbing the walls, exploring the rooms and visiting the shipwreck museum which held a 300BC cargo ship that sank a few Km from the harbour town. I still maintain that the amphora used to hold wine, oils, grain etc are ludicrously impractical in nearly every respect - most obvious is they don't stack well, don't stand up on their own, made of brittle material, heavy.. I can go on... Seeing a reconstruction of a loaded section of the ship only convinced me even more of this fact. Other displays about the use and development of the castle I found informative.
As the Island is small I decided to bite the bullet and accept that only the select few hold real maps that can be used for bike touring - showing enough detail to allow you to avoid the death trap main roads. Armed with my www.holidayinnorthcyprus.com map I exited town towards Bellapais abbey. It was a short climb from Grine (Kryena) and offered a good glimpse of "Besparmak mountains" that stretch nearly from west to east of the island set back 5Km from the north coast. These will be my every present friend over the next few days.
Arrived at the monastery, a quaint semi ruin that offered some interesting glimpses into the monastic way of life. It was reported in the mid 16C that "The monks habitually took wives - sometimes as many as three - and would admit no novices except for their own children, to whom they assigned the monastic revenues", Its a hard life being a Catholic monk. Not to worry, the Ottomans soon sent them packing. Back to the coast and followed the cement trucks until dusk set in. Development is well under way and I get the feeling that finding the real Cyprus is going to be a challenge. Expats and estate agents are taking over, the roads are becoming highways lined with building sites and strewn with rubble. My hope is the further east I go, the less of an eyesore the place will be.
Kryenia harbour
Castle overlooking harbour
This is where I am going - see mountains
Badly stacked
The boat - before:
The boat - after:
Bellapais
Another "make do" camp spot
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05 Oct, Wednesday
Start point: Besparmak (10K east of Girne)
End point: Kantara
Via:
Odom(Km): 56.67
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.32
Ave(Km/h): 12.5
Total Ascent(m): 1034
Max Altitude(m) 623
Max Speed(Km/h): 45.8
From Girne (Kyrenia) you need to travel east 40 Km along the ugly main road that cuts a deep scar into the coast line - past building sites in various states of desertedness, piles of rubble and streams of cement mixers and builders vans. Glimpses of the old coast road can be seen, but there is little effort to keep as a secondary route. Each time I took it it ran for a short while and abruptly came to an end when the new road crossed it - usually at the foot of a steep embankment carrying the new road right over the old. As luck would have it, the new road ended and from that moment on the landscape changed. Traffic consisted of Brits in hire cars exploring the chapels and early Christian churches that are sprinkled around the area. Stopped at a site not listed in any guide books and wandered around the ruins of an ancient village. The church had some interesting frescos inside - some of which had unfortunately been hacked away be art thieves. There was all sorts of archeology just lying around the place. Stopped at a restaurant to fill my water bottles and confirmed my fears that the main road construction is entering its next stage to continue along this route, changing the coastline forever - not for the good of the tourist but for those how wish to buy retirement homes with a sea view and 20 minute drive to Grine (Kryena). Many plots of land had already been sold and the march along the coast continues.
Then a climb up a steep hill to Kantara castle. Build mainly in the 14th Century and popular with the not so popular rulers of Cyprus due to its strong defensive position. You could see why - on three sides, sheer cliffs. I wandered around what remains of the castle and had the whole place to my self. The views made the 650 metre climb worth it - the sea on both sides of the peninsula are clearly visible.
In the toilet I came across the biggest spider I've ever seen in the wild. It was infact a tarantula around 12cm long. Not one who likes spiders, I made a sharp exit feeling rather uneasy about my closeness with something hairy and fanged.
Camped in the picnic site at the foot of the castle. Water, toilets and table and chairs, Luxury. Another great place to spend the night - only I can't help keep a lookout for tarantulas under the table and in my shoes. The thought of one crawling into my tent is just to hideous to contemplate. Sleep tight, don't let the tarantulas bite!
Construction lines the roads
The main road cuts a deep scar in the coastline
Old coast road - before I reached a dead end!
Church on archeology site
Fresco
Stolen fresco
Pine trees cling to the slopes
View of the castle
View from the castle
Sea on both sides of the peninsular
A friend in the toilet
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06 Oct, Thursday
Start point: Kantara
End point: Bogaztepe - 4km East of Iskele
Via: Panagia Kanakria Church. Ayious Trias Basilica
Odom(Km): 98.64
Moving(hrs.mim): 6.13
Ave(Km/h): 15.8
Total Ascent(m): 768
Max Altitude(m) 600
Max Speed(Km/h): 48.7
Followed roads that cling to the peninsula ridge east aided by compass. Deserted untarmaced roads yielded some great views as they wound through newly established hillside pine forests. The information from the tourist office in Girne (Kyrenia) was I should follow the coast roads and not go into the mountains. "I do not wish to learn about the North Cyprus construction industry" I said to the man behind the desk. "I wish to go into the mountains to explore, find remote villages and a traditional way of life - but in order to do this I need a map that shows these roads". I received blank looks. "But the coast road is asphalted and flat, you should take that, here is a map". As I found in Romania, they just don't get what I'm here for.
Running low on money I stopped at a bank in the biggest town and asked where the nearest cash machine was. A long way away. Then asked if I could draw money out on my card. No. My fall back was a 10 Euro note I had acquired from a Dutch couple desperate for some Turkish currency outside the entrance gate to Aspendos. It rescued me - I can now eat and visit the next set of monuments on my list. First stop, Panagia Kanakria Church, early Christian and quaint. It provided photo opportunities more than anything else. I didn't bother getting the key to go inside as I read in my guide book that in the 1970s art thieves stole the most interesting parts of the frescos. Second stop, Ayious Trias, a ruined Basilica and associated out building gave more of an opportunity to explore. Built in the fifth Century and discovered by accident in 1952, most of what survives is less than a metre from floor level. As luck would have it the mosaics and baptistary font survive. The font is big enough for total submersion with steps in and steps out. The outward appearance of the Basilica is more related to a Roman temple - porticos, columns and mosaics.
After a days sight seeing I hot footed it back to a location near Gazimagusa (Famagusta) ready for tomorrow.
Mountain roads
Inland roads - barren landscape
Panagia Kanakria Church
Church tower
Ayious Trias Basilica - the floor
Ruins
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07 Oct, Friday
Start point: Bogaztepe - 4km East of Iskele
End point: Gazimagusa (Famagusta)
Via: Salamis, Gazimagusa (Famagusta)
Odom(Km): 33.11
Moving(hrs.mim): 2.16
Ave(Km/h): 14.6
Total Ascent(m): 119
Max Altitude(m) 30
Max Speed(Km/h): 28.8
The main road that runs along the south of the peninsula is lined with the usual half finished building sites, unsightly piles of building rubble and workers vans and cement trucks that ply the road in a never ending frenzy of construction. A turn off took me to the Salamis Ruins. Founded towards the end of the Bronze age, it rose to become the capital of Cyprus. Rebuilt after earthquakes in the 5th Century by Emperor Constantine it offered an interesting long walk through the ruins of the baths, roman swimming pools, communal latrines for 44 s(h)ittings in one go!, exercise area, and the usual basilica, roads, villas, forum, temples, theatre, stadium and agora (public square often lined with shops). As I stepped over the rocks frightened reptiles scurried into the crevices.
The city was abandoned in 649 when Arab raids forced the population to move to south the the present day location of Famagusta and my next stop on this east coast tour. Famagusta boasts a intact wall that has survived the expansion of the city, mainly due to the fact the commercial centre has established itself outside the walls. Inside is a sleepy island graced with monuments, shops, squares, cafes, ruined churches and mosques. The Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, formally called St. Nicholas Cathedral was an interesting site. It is a gothic cathedral, however one of the towers has been rebuilt as a minaret and inside all the usual components of a cathedral have been stripped away - screens, rooms, iconography, alters, plaques etc.. and replaced with carpet - and lots it. Shoes to be removed on entry and women must wear headscarves. It gave a great felling of space and quiet, until of course a coach load of Italian tourists and their tour guide arrived to shatter the relaxed and calm atmosphere with lots of shouting and waving of arms. Time to leave.
Toured the rest of the town on bike, sampled local food, circled the walls, visited the Othello tower. I found a shop that could repair my solar powered 10 AA or AAA battery charger. Not a simple problem, I left it with the competent shop owner and said I would return the next day.
My idea of finding a camp spot to the south of the town were shot dead - almost literally. I had reached the north south border which cuts through the southern end of the town. I walked onto the beach in the shadow of dilapidated hotels, warning signs and barbed wire. This is no mans land - or the 'buffer zone' where only the UN are allowed to patrol. The hotels were built in 1974 and closed in 1974 - a very weird sight to see and the reality of a physically divided country
Salamis - Agora
Mozaic from the baths
Roman swimming pool
Glimpse of the marble veneer that adorned these buildings
Theatre
Roman road
Famagusta - Defensive walls
Famagusta - Defensive walls - Othello tower
Famagusta - Mosque
Famagusta - No mans land, or 'buffer zone'
Famagusta - Charger under repair
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08 Oct, Saturday
Start point: Gazimagusa (Famagusta)
End point: Hamitkoy - 7Km north of Nicosia
Via:
Odom(Km): 60.92
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.23
Ave(Km/h): 18.0
Total Ascent(m): 306
Max Altitude(m) 209
Max Speed(Km/h): 34.8
I wasn't in a rush to get going as Hasan asked me to pickup the charger at 11.00. Breakfasted in ruins of the Venetian palace, now turned into a town square and ambled over to check back on the fate of my charger. FIXED! I was pleased as considering the number of electronic gadgets that take batteries - I count 8, a charger than can charge 10 AA or AAA overnight with a mains adaptor or trickle charge over 2 days using the clip on solar panel is a necessity. Next stop the capital and the only realistic way of getting there was following the motorway. Noisy but safe as I could follow the emergency lane. The only time I was in any danger was when a 1.5m shiny jet black snake started to cross the carriageway - right into my path. Not wanting to end up as road kill I braked, it saw me and spun round 360 and slithered back into the bushes.
Difficult to miss is the giant North Cyprus flag emblazoned on the side of the mountain. Its purpose is clear - to be visible from the capital city. Cyprus is divided into north and south. Nowhere else is this more apparent than the capital city where the north south Cyprus divide cuts straight through the heart of the city centre - a city which is already encircled by a 16th Century defensive wall - and on the skyline is the ever present reminder that the north has very much its own identity. I camped in the shadow of the flag, attracting the interest of an armed patrol from a near by army base. I said it was only one night and explained my trip around north Cyprus. The were either happy with my story or board to death and after a bit of a poke around at my kit, they wandered off.
Flag on mountain
Evenings entertainment
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09 Oct, Sunday
Start point: Gazimagusa (Famagusta)
End point: Hamitkoy - 7Km north of Nicosia
Via:
Odom(Km): 31.56
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.20
Ave(Km/h): 9.4
Total Ascent(m): 256
Max Altitude(m) 213
Max Speed(Km/h): 32.4
Nicosia is surrounded by a circular wall with a circumference of 5km. It has 11 bastions - projections designed to defend the walls and following recent conservation work it is all in very good shape. The city centre lies within this circular wall. Now the odd thing about Nicosia is that the divide between north and south passes straight through the heart of this walled city. Walls on the outside and walls on the inside. To separate the Turkish Cypriot and Greek Cypriot halves, a buffer zone has been set up by the UN - it is like a 'no mans land' that puts space between the two sides. Inside the buildings have not been touched since the 60s and barbed wire and high walls protect them. Imagine walking down Oxford street in London only to come across large wall half way down. You then have to travel outside of the city centre, show your passport, change money to a different currency, learn a different language and travel back to the other side of the wall to continue up the high street. This is the reality of Nicosia. I started off my tour of the city on the north side. Being a Sunday it was not that lively and most things were shut. I visited the monuments, toured the streets and followed the boundary. Many building are in a sorry state of decay and much money has been spent of renovation - supplemented by European grants. One thing that struck me are the number of men on the street and they were clearly members of the Turkish army. They sat around waving their dog collars, chatting on street corners. As I have noticed in many Turkish towns the women are nowhere to be seen and certainly not in the cafes with where all the men gather. To see the south side I traveled outside the walled city to the checkpoint, showed my passport, traveled back into the walled city, found a cash machine to take money and continued my tour. Things are very different here. The most striking is a multi cultural feel. Many different nationalities mix together - no longer did I hear the kids shout "Tourist" as I passed by as skin or hair colour is not a reliable method of determining if you are a local. Women are far more visible and have much more financial independence - judging by the number of them swarming into Next or sipping frappachinos in Starbucks. Cafe culture is back - sipping a beer or wine outside a cafe with someone else other than your male chums is popular. The place seemed to be getting on with being the capital city where as in the north it felt as if the men were hanging around in gangs waiting for something to happen. On the down side, everything is much more expensive so I cycled out of town to find a camp spot away from the rapidly expanding suburbs.
Typical rural farm dwelling
Nicosia - North, Mosque
Backstreets
Example of how the city is divided
Decay
NORTH CYPRUS STREET SCENE - Note the number of men!
SOUTH CYPRUS STREET SCENE - Note mix!
This is where the main highstreet ends in a wall - it runs through the buffer zone and continues in the north of the town
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10 Oct, Monday
No cycling
Mission of the day, find tyres with puncture resist lining - something I have not seen since Austria and get bike serviced in a shop that services just bikes and not washing machines, hoovers etc.. Going through my list of distributors I eventually found a shop that could service and a shop that sold tyres. Success. I dropped off the bike and asked how I get back to the city centre. Blank looks. A bus.. I suggested?? They told me there the bus stop was but I got the feeling it would be an unpleasant experience. Sure enough after 20 minutes of watching rush hour traffic speed by, the bus arrived. I clearly indicated that I wanted to get on this bus - the only one served at this stop - and - it drove right passed. I walked up the main road for 40 minutes until I reached the hostel. In all this time I didn't see another bus and this a main artery feeding into the city and not just some back street.
And another thing that made it hard was the lack of pavements. Walk either on the gravel or the main road. I chose the gravel over death any day.
On the plus side, the hostel I had located early that morning was an affordable 10 Euros a night
Start here, now here
Church - note the offerings in the shape of an affected part of the body!
Mohammad for breakfast
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11 Oct, Tuesday
The public transport system in Cyprus is just so appallingly bad. A whole host of things were summed up by one of the guests in the hostel. "Can you believe that on a Sunday there is no public transport links from the airport to the city centre. There is nothing, not early in the morning, not even at peak times. Nothing. The only way to get there is by taxi" He paid over double what is normally charged. "Its because it a Sunday the taxi driver explained to me".
I now needed to pick up the bike and this time I searched for the bus station. I had a detailed map from the tourist office, but did it show where the bus station was? No. I asked the people at the bus stops who were very helpful indeed. Even when the bus did run, it just go caught in the endless traffic jams that blight much of the city. Nicosia, outside the walled city is again a city for motor vehicles and not for people. Many of the roads have no pavements. Where pavements do exist, they often end up as car parks. The roads are multi laned, fast and have crash barriers that extend for up to a Km. No subways or footbridges. I didn't see anyone else walking and I soon realised why. Without a car to get round this city your only choice is to stay at home.
Transport rant over - I've got my bike now.
Nicosia city tour, wandered the streets, visited the museum of Nicosia, admired churches, went in the museum of Byzantine arts and saw the recovered mosaics from one of the Basilicas in Northern Cyprus I had visited. There are also pictures of interiors of looted churches following the war in 1974. When I picked up my bike I explained my onward travel problems. No passenger ferries or cruse ships to Greece or anywhere else. "I can't believe that" everyone said. I was given the name of a shipping company, Salamis lines, that ran boats to Greece. It was a standing joke for all the staff in the shop. "Can you believe this man was told by the tourist information there are no passenger ferries to Greece... Ha Ha..". Who do I believe???
Had beers back in the hostel and got ready for another day of uncertainty.
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12 Oct, Wednesday
Start point: Nicosia
End point: Kantou - 6Km west of Limasol
Via: Limosol, Kolossi Castle
Odom(Km): 90.00
Moving(hrs.mim): ???
Ave(Km/h): ?
Total Ascent(m): ?
Max Altitude(m) ?
Max Speed(Km/h): ?
Waved goodbye to the gang in the hostel and setoff with the intention of going to Kryena, backtracking through Turkey to the west coast where I can get a ferry to Rhodes. I passed the office where I had been informed there were no ferry boats - not even cruse ships. I went back in and made sure I didn't sit in front of anyone I had seen before. I explained my predicament. The same answer was given. We can arrange for your bike to be shipped while you take a plane. No I said. "I was told Possidon and Salamis shipping have boats". The response was "We are not agents for those companies and therefore can't sell tickets". "Do you know if the run operations to Greece?". "No", "Can you tell me where their office is". She did. Having checked the internet previously I already knew there was no commercial passenger ferry service after the closure of the Haifa in Israel. The main route was from Athens to Israel and Cyprus was just a convenient stop off. The closure of the port signaled the end of services. Arriving at the Salamis lines office I described my predicament of having to go back the way I came, through North Cyprus and back to Turkey. "We have a cargo shipping office in Limosol, maybe you could get a place on a container ship". I was given a contact name and address and told to make enquiries. Sounds like an adventure to me I thought, I'll give it a go. Without thinking twice I hoofed it down to Limasol in next to no time, thanks to a kind trucker who flagged me down and offered a lift. With bike chucked into the back the last half of the journey was spent hammering down the motorway at 124Km/h, over and under taking taking, texting on one phone while making calls on the other. He was trying to arrange a pickup while giving me a white knuckle ride at the same time. Dropped off in Limasol I located the office, took a deep breath and entered. I tracked down my contact in the partitions and once I introduced myself.. "Ahh, you are the cyclist from England who wants to go the Greece, yes?". The girl in the office had phoned ahead. From then on it was plain sailing! I had the relevant paperwork for the bike, papers for entry to the port and a ticket for "TRADER I", my boat to Greece. I had a cabin, meals and no scrubbing of floors or walls required. I now have 2 days to kill.
I had seen the coastline in Limasol - the usual collection of hotels and eateries. Passed through the old port at lightning speed and felt the need after my motorway mileage marathon to seek the life of a hermit in the mountains. As luck would have it the Trodos mountains rise to a peak of 2000 metres and are located to the south west of the island, not far from Limasol. Off I set, stopping of at Kalossi Castle, just off the old Limosol / Paphos road. An interesting site I came away learning nothing other than it is a castle, made of stone and has three floors - I forgot, it is also square in shape. When I complained at the desk, "We have a book you can buy". I'm carrying far too much as it is. If I purchased a book for every place I would need a trailer. Into the mountains I went, well, the first 200 metres and camped up. A lot achieved today after days of waiting and uncertainty, let the adventure roll on.
Kolossi Castle
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13 Oct, Wednesday
Start point: Kantou - 6Km west of Limasol
End point: Trodos
Via: Vouni (Limasol Donkey Sanctuary), Platres.
Odom(Km): 47.27
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.11
Ave(Km/h): 9.1
Total Ascent(m): 1848
Max Altitude(m) 1700
Max Speed(Km/h): 55.7
Climbing up the steady gradient I came across signs for the "Friends of the Cyprus Donkey Sanctuary" www.donkeycyprus.com
Intrigued, I had visions of British middle class animal lover volunteers who devote their time selflessly to the welfare of poor mistreated donkeys. How true this was! Quite a large operation with a number of substantial buildings to house the donkeys, pens, a shop and one full time member of staff. Everyone as you would expect was very friendly and I soon got talking to one of the many volunteers who had seen me tackling the steady climb from the coast. Initially they did rescue donkeys, but now they get more 'retired' ones near the end of their working life. Also if an elderly donkey owner dies and they have no children to take responsibility, the phone rings to arrange a pick up. I was taken to see them getting their regular foot treatment where stones are picked out their hooves followed by a good filling down - like clipping toe nails except some have a habit of kicking whoever tries to do it!
Carob trees grow in abundance in parts of the island and for 50c (about 75p) you can buy a carrier bag full of black, sweet chocolate like Carob beans which the donkeys just adored. I fed them and they all lined up waggling their lips to indicate their desire for one. A number of other visitors arrived, again Brits and the place took on the atmosphere of a national trust property on a Sunday afternoon without the cold and drizzle.
More climbing brought me to 1800m above sea level and a significantly cooler and greener landscape. The mountains benefit from a covering of pine trees and lining the roads are a mix of almond, cherry trees and vineyards. The mountain villages clearly cater for tourists, and judging by the number of cars with red number plates to signify a hire car, the few tourists on the road out number locals. Passed through villages with local specialties displayed on trestle tables up to the highest town, Trodos. In winter this town and surrounding area transforms into a ski resort and come 5.00pm I could feel the chilly bite of the mountain breeze. The campsite at 1650m was superb, if not a bit chilly. Carpets were laid out to pitch tens on and the facilities are spotless. At 2 Euro per person, it was also the cheapest on my travels. My neigbour was one of the many UK army personal on the island and we shared a bottle of wine till it was too chilly to sit out.
Donkeys
Toe nails cutting
Full of beans
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14 Oct, Thursday
Start point: Trodos
Circular tour of the mountains
Chatted to the other 2 campers, arranged to meet up for dinner and left for a circular tour of the Trodos mountains. Firstly up to the highest peak on the island, Mount Olympus. The summit of nearly 2000 metres has two army bases side by side, one Cypriot and the other a British sovereign base - there are lots of signs saying "No Photos". The view from over the razor wire was great. Then I completed a circular tour taking in an old church manned (or nuned) by an old lady. Archangelos Church has a simple exterior which hides its treasure of wall to wall frescos inside. Opposite is a Byzantium museum of art. In the next town of Kalopanagiotis, the monastery of Agious Ioannis Lampadistis again has some impressive frescos and a resident long bearded Greek Orthodox monk who opened it especially for me and the coach load of German tourists.
The rest of the day was spent on the long climb up from 600 to 1800 metres and back to the campsite. My progress was hampered by collecting figs, almonds and grapes growing wild by the road side to offer to my fellow campers. I also picked up some 'Cypriot delights' from a market stall. You can't call them 'Turkish delights' as nobody would buy them!
Back at camp we lit a fire to fend off the cold. Mike and Miss Weasel (sorry I forgot your real name!) were artists who had just purchased an apartment in Limasol and were due to move in a few days. For the time being they traveled around the island on a severely restricted budget - so much so that Mike had fashioned a fantastic mug from a water bottle! Blue Peter presenter in a former life I think..
Combining our ingredients we came up with a super meal surpassed only by the quantity (not quality) of wine consumed. The Vodka lasted no time whatsoever and the volume of sticky sugary sweets we sampled finished us off. Our Cezch friend struggled to understand our banter and sloped off early - either that or we were talking nonsense.. I think I know which one.
View from above
Typical mountain village
Num and chapel crammed with frescos
Dissused transport
Monastry
I call this photo "The improvised mug shot"
Very druink group shot
Doesn't it make you sick!
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