The Turkish coast is packed with old ruins

  Alanya, Turkey
Sunday, October 2, 2005

Chapter Summary

Southern Turkey


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26 Sept, Monday
Start point: Elsazi, Karacaoren Baraji
End point: Anatalya
Via: Perge
Odom(Km): 90.59
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.33
Ave(Km/h): 16.3
Total Ascent(m): 613
Max Altitude(m) 474
Max Speed(Km/h): 59.6

Made it to the coast at last. I have traversed Turkey fully from the north west to the south central region and like Romania, I can truly say it is a large country with a varied landscape. Much of last week has been spent at an altitude over 1000 meters above sea level where the temperature is a good 8 degrees less than that at sea level. Today involved the last part of the descent to the coast where those few degrees make such a difference. As I expected, approaching the coast resulted in more traffic and bigger towns. In the central area a big town had a population of 4,000 as displayed on the welcome sign. Antalya has a population of 650,000. My destination for the day is the the town of Perge located to the north east of Antalya. It is close the the present day town of Asku. This ancient town was ruled by the Greeks, Persians and like many places in this region, the Romans where it reached it zenith of prosperity. What fascinated me was development of the city stopped end of the Byzantine period and it was subsequently abandoned to nature. From 1940 onwards archeologists have carried out excavations of the main thoroughfares and important public, government and religious buildings. What is on display leaves little to the imagination in terms of its this cities importance during its heyday. There is both a stadium and theatre that holds 12000 and 15000 people respectively. Imagine this scene: A wide street with a fresh water canal running through the middle. Either the side are colonnaded walkways with mosaics for pavements, lined with shops and decorated with sculptures. Its marble as far as the eye can see. At the beginning of this walkway is a city gate, impressive in its scale and containing recesses to display statues of the founders of the city and other dignitaries. The other end of the street ends in a large ornamental fountain three stories high. It is adorned with mythical statues overlooking the water that brings life and coolness to the city as it cascades down a series of steps to fill the canal that runs the length of the street. Well, apart from the statues, many of which are in museums, it is all there to see. Almost devoid of other visitors I wandered around uncovering mosaics, imagining the scene with the bustle of commercial activity that wore the groves into the stone slab roads under foot.
After a few good hours of wandering around the baths, basilicas and public spaces I called it a day.
On the way I had seen a shop selling Pide. It is like a pizza, folded at two corners. I ordered two before setting of into Antalya city centre.
I decided to opt for a hotel - 9 pounds a night for a base in the heart of the walled harbor area. An evening stroll allowed me to discover the parks that line the coast and the emergence of a cafe culture that does not just involve middle aged men drinking tea.






City gate


Gate towers


Baths


General views


Hidden mosaics


Agora










Antalya
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27 Sept, Tuesday
Start point: Anatalya city tour
First stop the archeology museum - some way out of the old town area, but well worth the trip. Unlike all the history museums I have visited so far this one stood out as it gave information about the digs, the people and institutions involved, how the finds were made and use and background about the time period.. It gave context to what you were looking at. Without this the adage that archeology is 'just rubbish' stands true.
Next stop - A restored house used by Atturk, founder of he Turkish republic in the 1920's. He visited the city a number of times and stayed at this residence. Now it contains photos and memorabilia about his visit to the town.
Then a tour by bike of the backstreet residential and commercial areas away from the old quarter. Tourist tat shops were replaced by the usual bustle of commercial activity. Fabrics, motor, electronics, travel all had their quarter. I also found a tat and souvenir quarter. This is where the stall holders come to buy their bracelets, necklaces key rings etc. All I need say is that prices where 'per kilo'.
Next Antalya beach park. Situated to the west of the city it was a pleasant, well planned, clean, classy and polished collection of trendy bars, restaurants and upmarket hotels. If you wish to relax there is plenty of furniture to do so - hammocks, bean bags and sofas. Worth a revisit during the day when the sun is freely available for a spot of beach bumming.


Antalya - Roman harbour gate. Note the groves warn in the stone slabs.


Mosque town, icon of the city.



View of old town


Museum - well presented. All finds from Perge, which I visited the day before





Harbour


Shopping local style


Beads sold by the kilo


Antalya beach resort - relax at the bar


Dine in style

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28 Sept, Wednesday
Start point: Antalya
End point: Ask, near Osmaneli
Via:
Odom(Km): 52.48
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.55
Ave(Km/h): 13.4
Total Ascent(m): 568
Max Altitude(m) 373
Max Speed(Km/h): 55.0
Spent most of the day battling with a PC backing up photos, updating journal and lots of other jobs. Made it out of Antalya before dark and found a suitable camp spot.

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29 Sept, Thursday
Start point: Serik
End point: Manavgat
Via: Aspendos, Side
Odom(Km): 80.82
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.56
Ave(Km/h): 20.5
Total Ascent(m): 353
Max Altitude(m) 43
Max Speed(Km/h): 42.2
Two more Roman ruins to explore. Firstly, Aspendos, a site renowned for its magnificent amptheater. It is in great shape and leaves nothing to the imagination as to its boldness of construction. It has a seating capacity of 15000 people and a 3 story high stage previously encased in marble cladding and statues. The site around this gem has the usual collection of deserted streets, agora, baths, basilica, stadium, acropolis, fountain and assorted non-descript ruins.
Next stop Side. This site is located on the outskirts of a bigger town and the roman high street with the shells of roman shops and remnants of a colonnaded walkway now carried taxis, coaches and tourist trains. It is a town very much in use - no walking around deserted ruins here. A great seaside location with a beach and complex of shops, restaurants and hotels gave the place a lively feel. You always know when you enter a tourist area because all the prices suddenly appear in Euros - and are for course higher than elsewhere. Wandered around taking photos and soaking up the atmosphere.
Lunched in the coolness of the town square and generated a bit of interest amongst the local business men. "That man over there cycled all the way from England". I had countless offers of tea and even a present of an 'all seeing eye' the kind that hangs from the rear view mirrors of death wish Asian drivers who believe the eye will protect them as they speed down narrow streets at suicidal speeds. I don't think I will let its power go to my head though. Chatted a likable security guard who I thought just too nice and gentle be an effective deterrent to would be trouble makers!


Aspendos - Theatre




Aspendos - The back of the stage - it has a special name, but I can,t remember and can't be bothered to look it up!


Aspendos - Deserted Roman streets


Aspendos - Basilica


Lunch stop - Corn on the cob served up by a severe woman


Side - Ruins just of the high street


Side - Collonaded walk way


Side - Theatre


Side - Arty shot


Side - Acropolis


Side - Port harbour


Side - Friendly security guard
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30 Sept, Friday
Start point: Manavgat
End point: Alanya
Via: Aspendos, Side
Odom(Km): 80.82
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.56
Ave(Km/h): 20.5
Total Ascent(m): 353
Max Altitude(m) 43
Max Speed(Km/h): 42.2
The road that follows the coast is OK for cycling as there is a whole lane not used by traffic. Following this for a short whileýle I arrived at the last town on my turkey tour, Alanya. First stop was the Red Tower (Kizil Kule). The next stop was a bit more of a challenge - the Alara Fortress. 250 meters climb in the humid heat with all eyes watching, but the views worth it. At the top I left the bike at the taxi office and soon got chatting over tea to a friendly chap, Mustafa Ceylan. He was waiting for his customers who were also visiting the fortress. He took me on a tour of the fortress, pointing out the different parts of the town where he grew up, went to school etc.. The view of the town, mountains, harbour, sea and fortifications is spectacular and offered some fantastic photo opportunities. Then a tour of the town and back to a spot on the hill to eat and camp for the night.


Alanya - First view of the beach


View over town of Alanya


View of Alanya from the fort


Mustafa Ceylan and I


Back a bit more...


250 meter drop



The wall encircles the hilltop
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01 Oct, Saturday
Start point: Alanya
End point: Alanya
Via: Aspendos, Side
Odom(Km): 80.82
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.56
Ave(Km/h): 20.5
Total Ascent(m): 353
Max Altitude(m) 43
Max Speed(Km/h): 42.2
Town tour - day off.
Day of odd jobs and shopping and bike service. Looking for new cup - yes, things just get more exciting day by day! I got chatting to a shop owner, Burhan, who expressed interest in the bike and my journey. After a short while he called a friend, a freelance reporter who interviewed me on camera, took photos and details of the trip. All very exciting. CNN Turkey here I come! How will I cope wýth my new life on the celebrity circuit? Wýll it go to my head? Dream on Jon...!


Better than any hotel for sure!


my new life in the media spotlight


Local fishing on tourist beach
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02 Oct, Sunday
Start point: Alanya
End point: Alanya

Beach bum day - good place for it as I am surrounded bare naked flesh - massive great rolls of it! Everyone ýs German and 50 + - Still, friendly atmosphere. Bike attracted much interest from the security guards. It was fun watching them trying to ride it - and failing. It's rather heavy on the steering if you are not used to it.


Security take interest


Riding badly!