Central plateau, Dusty and generously fruity

Trip Start May 29, 2005

Trip End Dec 17, 2005

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Flag of Turkey Yalova, Gemlik, Iznik, Goynuk, Aksehir, Egirdir Gölü, Turkey
Wednesday, September 28, 2005

Chapter Summary

Central Turkey

Escape by ferry to explore the rugged coast
15 Sept, Thursday
Start point: Istanbul
End point: Armutlu
Via: Yalova
Odom(Km): 46.0
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.27
Ave(Km/h): 13.3
Total Ascent(m): 636
Max Altitude(m) 171
Max Speed(Km/h): 49.7

Good way out of Istanbul is by boat. I hopped on one of the regular car ferries and bumped into another cycle tourer. He was a PhD ecology student at Rome University and carried out field research in Tuscany. He was on his way to Syria over a period of 2 weeks.
Once in Yalova I toured the town and exited following the coast road as the short mountain pass was far to busy with heavy goods vehicles to risk. This took me along the rugged coastline lined with small beach resorts, villages, farms and olive groves. Found a superb camping spot on a disused branch of the old road. It's a terrace over looking the sea with the mountains behind. The day was humid and during the night a thunder storm past straight overhead with some very close strikes.

Wooden houses on the outskirts of Istanbul

Rugged coast near Yalova

Port town

Rain, mud and camping on a football pitch
16 Sept, Friday
Start point: Armutlu
End point: Umurbey
Via: Gemlik
Odom(Km): 55.46
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.00
Ave(Km/h): 13.9
Total Ascent(m): ???
Max Altitude(m) ???
Max Speed(Km/h): 54.4

The very heavy rain last night persisted into the morning. As I had the perfect camp spot, I decided to write postcards and route plan. Hit the road by 12.00 and soon arrived at Gemlik, a large port town. Stop by an internet cafe to upload weeks of journal entries. In the cafe the heavens opened, so I continued until midnight and left looking for a place to camp. The problem was the rain turned the clay based ground into glue. All the places that looked promising where blighted by mud. I continued on the route I was going to take tomorrow and through the town of Umurbey where the town football pitch was my only option!

Sorted for vitamin C
17 Sept, Saturday
Start point: Umurbey
End point: Iznik
Via: Iznik
Odom(Km): 73.32
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.34
Ave(Km/h): 13.21
Total Ascent(m): 1039
Max Altitude(m) 719
Max Speed(Km/h): 57.2

Other than a dog trying to shag my tent I had a peaceful nights sleep. Eating breakfast I saw a farmer picking figs so I asked if I could buy some. He was insistent I didn't pay and I picked out 3 juicy figs. He motioned me to stay where I was and leapt back into the trees, only to emerge with a bucket of plumbs and apricots, which again he insisted I took. 2 kilos heavier and sorted for vitamin C, I continued on my way. Cutting out a busy section of a road (and I mean death trap) meant a 700 meter climb and detour through the most picturesque countryside I have encountered so far in Turkey. The route was lined with olive and figs trees. The figs were only just splitting - a signal that they are ready to eat now. Up and up then down and down to lake Iznik Golu. Toured the walled town of Isnik, visited the amphitheatre and basilica. The amphitheatre has since been used as a grave yard and on the face of the dig you could see bone fragments sticking out and lots of pottery. Then found a camp spot on the lake and was joined two fishermen who later netted two sizable fish.

The villages

Iznik - Basilica

Sundown over lake

Perfect camp spot

Crazy foreigner, he is going the wrong way...
18 Sept, Sunday
Start point: Iznik
End point: Selchuk, near Osmaneli
Via: Iznik
Odom(Km): 52.48
Moving(hrs.mim): 3.55
Ave(Km/h): 13.4
Total Ascent(m): 568
Max Altitude(m) 373
Max Speed(Km/h): 55.0

Breakfasted consisted entirely of figs picked from the trees that line the lakeside. Spent time servicing the bike as after two short and fierce rain storms the chain and all components had filled with mud. On the road I took a wrong turn that took me down a big hill and to a road far too busy to cycle any distance on. I stopped at the first town, Osmaneli. On the map minor road took me to a point where I could rejoin my original plan so I asked around for directions to the first village on this road. I got different answers from different people and lots of explanations that of course I could not understand, no mater how many times it was repeated at greater volume. I gave up and used a compass reading to point me in the right direction and soon I found out why. The bridge was down - more like gone. Lots of complication later and a whole gang of helpful locals trying to block my every step as I used the alternative pedestrian crossing attached to the railway bridge. Why they were so insistent I couldn't go that way, I never did work out. I even made the fatal mistake of actually telling them where I was going and they almost frog marched me back to the road that I had originally exited because it was too dangerous. They wanted me to follow it for a further 5 days, passing close to the capital city of Ankara. After making it across the bridge I made my escape despite their protests. Crazy foreigner, he is going the wrong way...
After the 1 hour delay it was soon time to find a camping spot for the night. A puncture forced me to stop anyway. By coincidence, as the route took me through some sparsely populated areas, I stopped right outside a park. A house that managed the park area was there and I went over to ask if I could camp until the morning. He peered down at the bike, thought for a bit and beckoned me to follow. He led me to self contained flat and indicated I could stay as a guest.
Izzet Ozden ran a sizable park area and number of apartments. We met up after I had completed my unpacking and he helped me fix the flat tire. We shared a wonderful meal of roast chicken, lentils and cured sausage washed down with countless cups of tea. He wife lived in the near by town of Osmaneli and acted as translator over the phone. After a good feed I readied for bed and had an excellent, undisturbed nights sleep.
Iznik museum was a collection of rubbish - I learned nothing. I guess the town made tiles judging by the number on display.

Mosque - note the tiles..

They may be cute, but they follow you around asking 'What is your name', 'where are you from' - they know no other English, it can be very annoying.

Iznik city gate

Hill overlooking Iznik

One of the apartment buildings ran by Izzet Ozden where I was invited to stay.

Into the real countryside
19 Sept, Monday
Start point: Selchuk, near Osmaneli
End point: Goynuk
Via: Goynuk
Odom(Km): 98.95
Moving(hrs.mim): 8.00
Ave(Km/h): 12.4
Total Ascent(m): 1526
Max Altitude(m) 1144
Max Speed(Km/h): 48.8

Breakfasted with Izzet, a real friend and continued on my way. My days cycling consisted of majestic mountain scenery and tackling the hills that go with it. The generosity of the Turkish is humbling, I'm often flagged down and handed fresh produce by the pickers. On this occasion, I was passed a small bunch of grapes which I placed into a plastic bag in my pannier. The picker took the bag out and proceeded to fill it with 3 kilos of grapes, despite my protests. This added to apricots, walnuts, fresh figs, plumbs and apples I could open my own market stall!
The roads are empty and wide, just as I'd hoped for, but don't often expect. The day ended on the mountain pass out of Goynuk, some 1144 meters above sea and noticeably cooler - which is good because below 600 meters there is a sticky heat that makes me sweat buckets.

I'm no geologist, but...
20 Sept, Tuesday
Start point: Goynuk
End point: Dinek
Via: Nallihan
Odom(Km): 113.50
Moving(hrs.mim): 7.41
Ave(Km/h): 14.8
Total Ascent(m): 1535
Max Altitude(m) 1198
Max Speed(Km/h): 57.1

I must be on a different planet, but not for the reason you think. The landscape is unlike anything I have encountered on my travels. Climbing out of Nallihan I noticed some dramatic changes to my surroundings, see pictures. I'm no geologist, but it was clear to me there is something interesting going on. The soil is red and exposed rocks that are not red display brightly green / blue seams. There is also a layer of white rocks that give a snow / ice look to the landscape. It is very dry and the drinking fountains have all but disappeared outside of the villages. Welcome to the Suduken Daglari, a ridge of mountains the run east / west.
My visit to Nallihan involved a treat in a restaurant. 3 dishes, basket of bread, water, salad came to 3 pounds. It filled me up. Always room for desert I found a shop selling the required sugary snacks. Chatted to the group running the business and described my journey and where I was heading to. I went with their recommendation - a delicious sticky, nutty, honey sweet. When I offered to pay they insisted it was 'on them'. I waved goodbye to the kind folk and continued fully refuelled. I certainly needed every calorie as the next couple of Km was the hardest landscape in Turkey so far. My plan was to get to Mihaliccik, which I didn't make - I still had a further 15Km to go and a countless climb / descents when the sun dipped below the horizon. Finding suitable camping is such a sparsely populated area is not a problem and I have the chirruping of the insects and the distant flashes of lightning to watch while listening, as I do every evening while eating and pitching, to the BBC world service. I'm amused that news on Tyco (The company I left to do this tour) reaches me while sitting on the side of a mountain in Turkey. Good night Dennis, don't forget to lock the door behind you... no need, its self locking.

Countryside view

Friendly shop where I took a desert

Typical town house

And the open road

Pot making the old fashioned way
21 Sept, Wednesday
Start point: Dinek
End point: Yaylakoy
Via:
Odom(Km): 68.0
Moving(hrs.mim): 5.20
Ave(Km/h): 11.3
Total Ascent(m): 1300
Max Altitude(m) 1600
Max Speed(Km/h): 55.0

Dry, dusty, barren and mountainous are a few good words to describe the region cycled today. A long climb up to 1600m provided a rest from the heat at lower altitudes. On the way up I came across a village firing pots using methods they have probably used for centuries. I was treated to a 900m descent over 20Km on empty roads and it was a real buzz. As storm clouds could be seen I camped before a heavy thunder and lightning storm passed directly overhead, lashing down rain and hail the like of which I have not seen since Slovakia. The difference is it seems once the storm passes, the stars shine brightly again. The area where I am camped is like an oasis. It has its own drinking water spring and is set in a grove of Almond and olive trees.

How is this for a breakfast spot

Firing pots in the open air

Seller and their stall

Climb the 1550 metre pass... for views of nothing!

Donkey theif
22 Sept, Thursday
Start point: Yaylakoy
End point: Ilyaspasa
Via:
Odom(Km): 97.00
Moving(hrs.mim): 6.10
Ave(Km/h): 14.6
Total Ascent(m): 889
Max Altitude(m) 1145
Max Speed(Km/h): 54.5

I've just checked the map and the area I'm in now, yesterday and probably tomorrow have the smallest number of villages and roads in Turkey. Cycling the landscape I can see why. It's barren. Soil erosion has exposed the bedrock and there are very few trees. All that's around me is dust and rock and I don't know any crops that would grow in such conditions. The few roads carry little traffic and are well made - apart from the fact they insist on sprinkling chunky gravel on what would otherwise be a perfect surface.
I was flagged down by a group of carpet dealers who insisted on plying me with melon, bread and grapes. They were going to a near by town to make a delivery. Found a camping spot near a water fountain - rare in these parts. After I pitched a shepherd and his 100 sheep, donkey and dog came over for a quick drink. I noticed in some literature I accumulated the breed of dog is a Kangal - imported by the Galatians in the 3rd Century B.C. - it did look rather old. The donkey also attempted to steal my food for the evening. Thankfully the shepherd was friendly and after explaining where I was from and where I was going, he waved goodbye. I must confess the climate here is perfect for me. Warm - probably too warm for most others, dry, no mozzies, water springs from the ground in the occasional place. When it does rain, it has been towards the end of the day and with enough warning to pitch the tent and prepare. The rain only lasts a few hours and then all is clear and everything dries in a few hours - even at night. When it is too cool I can drop a lower altitude and when too hot, I can take rests at altitude.

Get used to this view, is what I saw for 3 days

Camping by a water fountain - Sheep and shepherds donkey. HE IS WALKING TOWARDS MY FOOD BAG...

The Kangal dog

Cleaning the bike can be such a chore...

What is your name??? Where are you from??? [repeat]
23 Sept, Friday
Start point: Ilyaspasa
End point: Younak
Via: Younak
Odom(Km): 60.00
Moving(hrs.mim): 4.00
Ave(Km/h): ???
Total Ascent(m): 600
Max Altitude(m) ???
Max Speed(Km/h): ???

In this region, possibly due to its remoteness, many of the small villages are truly unspoilt. Low stone houses with an exterior coated in mud and straw. Boundary walls made of mud bricks and white marble like roads worn smooth over the centuries. If you ignore the aerials, electricity cables, telegraph poles and satellite dishes, some street scenes have not changed for centuries. My presence did cause much interest and soon after stopping I'm often surrounded by groups of children and adolescents with not much else to do except stare at you and ask the same two questions again and again:
What is your name?
Where are you from?
This is as far as their understanding of English goes and any other attempt to communicate often ends up with the questions being asked again. I don't mind, but when there are more than 20 people staring and a few repeatedly asking you the same questions again and again, I start to feel like I'm in an Alfred Hitchcock film.
On my way to the main town of Yonak (population 4200) I kept on overtaking and being over taken by the local village transport. It's a mode of transport I have seen a number of times in these parts. Its more of a cart with a noisy two stroke bolted on the front.
In a village I was soon flagged down by a friendly group of gents sitting in a cafe. Chi? (tea) Normally I don't but this time I decided to go with it. A resident who could translate was summoned to act as translator and I spent a half hour discussing what I am doing and reflections on the Turkish people. One of the group looked remarkably like George Bush.
Once in Yunak I found an internet cafe and sheltered from the rain. Once it finished I headed out of town, but soon saw a second rain storm on the horizon. Debating what to do next, a gent leant out a window and shouted "Chi?"
It was a workshop that cut marble and the entire workforce gathered for tea. The owner could speak good English as he has worked in Marmarous where many Brits take their holidays.
Then a break in the rain allowed me to continue - but by this time it was 18.30 and time to look for somewhere to camp. I saw a disused garage complex with an awning and a few out buildings. I made enquiries with the intention of asking if I could pitch underneath it. Before I could I was sipping tea with a group of irrigation engineers who were using one of the buildings as a base and sleeping quarters. In the evening, most of them went and the two remaining insisted I take one of the beds. They also included me in the evening meal of rice with salad and bread. Simple but tasty. I shared what I had which included cake, grapes, olives and vodka (naughty!). It was a memorable evening.

Ancient villages

Local inter-village transport

Cay?? (Chi - tea) A group photo of my fellow tea drinkers for the afternoon.

Market day

and a slap-up evening meal

Aksehir town tour with Guven
24 Sept, Saturday
Start point: Younak
End point: Bagkonak
Via: Aksehir
Odom(Km): 86.00
Moving(hrs.mim): 6.14
Ave(Km/h): ???
Total Ascent(m): 900
Max Altitude(m) 1680
Max Speed(Km/h): 65.2

Hit the road to see the sun rise over the mountains and continued for 3 hours on the remnants of the big meal eaten the previous night. In the town of Aksehir I got chatting to a friendly chap called Guven over lunch. He had studied accounting in Istanbul and was due to sit his exams soon. We got his bike back in working order at his house and he kindly took me on a tour of the town. It's famous for a character called Nasrettin Hoca, a fabler. We saw the town centre, cultural centre, schools and a restored house with furniture and fittings from the 1930-1940s.
He sensibly waved me goodbye at the beginning of the pass over the Sultandaglari mountains. Already being at 1000 meters it was a short 600 meter climb to the summit. The views over the flats and back to the large town of Aksehir was breathtaking. On the other side of the pass I had a view of at least 3 rainstorms occurring in different places. Time to find somewhere to camp early. Descended to a spot overlooking the town of Bagkonak and found a great place on a section of a disused track.

Aksehir - Nasrettin Hoca

View from the pass back over Aksehir

Thinking about changing my mode of transport

Thunderstorm that greeted me on the other side of the pass

Apple madness
25 Sept, Sunday
Start point: Bagkonak
End point: Elsazi, Karacaoren Baraji
Via: Gelendost
Odom(Km): 135.44
Moving(hrs.mim): 7.45
Ave(Km/h): 17.4
Total Ascent(m): 872
Max Altitude(m) 1240
Max Speed(Km/h): 45.3

I have never seen so many apple trees. They lined my route for 80Km and over the entire distance, picking was in full swing. As I cycled along the pickers would wave me to stop, which I did to take pictures. Then they would hand me apples which I had to refuse as the first person I accepted the gift insisted on giving me 15 of the biggest, juiciest and tastiest apples I've eaten. All I did was point to the pannier literally brimming with fruit and they quickly understood why. I could carry no more.
I passed by two areas of outstanding beauty, the first was a lake 50x20Km in size called Egirdir Golu. The edge of the turquoise lake was lined with apple orchards and the red and white rocky mountains provided a fantastic backdrop. Second was a national park called Kovada Golu Milli Parki, in which the action of the water has carved a gorge through the hilly landscape. The smell of pine kernels in the midday heat reminded me of the south of France. It's a common sight to see on the weekend, whole families driving into the mountains for a picnic. We are not taking about sandwiches and cola here - these picnics involved cooking on an open fire - The simplest food I saw was satay sticks and others had pots, pans and cast iron frying dishes suspended over the flame cooking all manors of delights.