Sichuan is hot

  Chengdu, Sichuan, China
Sunday, July 20, 2008

We got to Chengdu a couple days ago. The train ride was uneventful except for having a textbook discussion about the relative poverty/wealth divides in China and the US with the two middle aged guys from Chengdu in our cabin. They were fun to talk to - we've officially entered the world of Southern accents and nearly unintelligble local dialects - but had none of the hospitality of our Xian kid. But really, who could?

I love this city. My study abroad program came here on a class trip three years ago so we could see all the tourist spots and so Alex and I could run off for adventures with local club kids. This place is hot - the weather, the people, and especially the food. It lives up to its reputation for all three, and is probably the only place in China where the people can be called "la" (hot and spicy) too.

Sun Yat-Sen

We managed to find a great deal at the hotel I stayed in last time. It's right in the heart of the city, a pedestrian shopping center like Times Square without the cars. We had to wander around for a while to find a good Sichuan restaurant in the midst of the Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Starbucks, Nike, and Pizza Hut (luxury in China). I wonder what Sun Yat-Sen is thinking in the middle of it all.

I promised Andy some food photos so here goes:

Shui zhe yu

Sichuan food

Shui zhe yu or Water-cooked fish is a classic Sichuan dish that also has a beef version. Also on the table are a classic sichuan string bean dish, twice cooked pork, sichuan style fresh spring rolls, and eight treasures tea. The three hot dishes are all dripping with red peppers and sichuan peppercorns. It's enough to make most people run screaming, but is considered mild by Sichuan standards. I'm not even going to bother with the hot pot this time around.

Wali drill with bamboo

The first place we hit up in Chengdu was the river-viewing pavilion park. It's dedicated to a poetess who had a love for bamboo and includes over 200 species of bamboo. Naturally, I broke off some dead pieces to practice escrima sticks.



Later that night we went to check out the nightlife. I think I ended up at a couple of the same clubs I'd been to three years ago, but it's just not the same without the group I was with last time. Chinese clubs like these are based around groups of friends getting bottle service. Everyone is crowded around tables, and there is no dance floor. The bar only serves bottles of beer or whole bottles of liquor. We did end up chatting with an interesting woman from Xinjiang and her friend from Tibet. The bartenders put on a show that would get a bar shut down in the US. One blew fire with mouthful of 151 while another juggled flaming liquor bottles - blindfolded. I tried not to think of the Station nightclub.

Golden Summit

Me at Golden Summit

Silver and Gold Temples

Saturday we made a day trip to Emeishan. This sacred mountain is one of the most famous in China. It's where I got bit by a monkey three years ago after stopping him from picking my pocket. I was tempted to go back to look for him, but instead we took the bus towards the summit. The Golden Summit is over 3000 metres high. As you walk (or take the cable car) to the top, you break through the clouds. Eventually, all you look down on is white. There is an amazing Golden Buddha statue at the top and two temples - a dramatic departure from most Chinese Buddhist temples with one in gold and one in silver. Sun and clouds I guess? The entire place is like a dream, something out of those scroll paintings.

Panda

This morning, we went to the Panda research and breeding center. This is yet another place I'd been before but had to go back to. It's the largest panda center in the world, and you've got to see the cute little buggers before they all go extinct.

Tomorrow we leave for Kunming in Yunnan province. We had some trouble getting the tickets, but I don't mind the extra day in Chengdu. The Vietnam visas are still up in the air. We'll find out at the consulate in Kunming whether we can stick to the plan or will have to figure something else out.