johansaburg to cape town along the coast

I had ended my last log with me in Joberg that morning after flying back from the hunting lodge in Mozambique. I was picked up that morning by the Baz Bus and 7 other bright eyed backpackers. I only knew I was on my way to Cape Town some couple thousand miles down the coast. I had no plan on where to stop, what things to do, or how long to stay in each place. I did some reading in my travel book I had found and the Drakenburg mountains, which are half way to Durban (which is south of Joberg and the first town we start are trek down the coast from). I realize I will be doing beach stuff the rest of the way and think a few day in the backpackers up in the mountains would be great. I get dropped off at the Shell gas station and a greasy bald guy in a blue beach buggy (the fiberglass body VW buggies) comes pulling up. The starter doesn't work so we have to push start it and then we're off. The backpackers is 30 minutes from the drop off so I get to have the luxury of seeing the amazing mountains and hills from the open cockpit of a buggy. We bounce along until we come to the next town where he informs me we're stopping in at the local pub to say hi to some friends. I am only along for the ride so I say ok with me. The guys are already two sheets to the wind so he decides we better just head on to the house. Already, I know this is going to be an interesting few days. We arrive at his small cottage that has been converted from a farm house to a backpackers cottage. It is a quaint little place with a small pond, a creek running through the back, and a unbelievable view of the mountains. Two quick things, yes S. Africa has mountains and yes it does get cold. I feel like I am up in the mountains of Colorado. I am the only one there so he gives me my own room and after fixing a cup of tea and watching some satellite TV (weird to see such a thing) I head to bed. I get up that morning and head across to the local horse farm where I spend the day doing one of the most amazing horse rides I have ever done. A few other younger couples from Britain were also along and we had the time of our lives. The view, the quality of horses, and the ability to take the horses at full run if you liked was AMAZING. No helmets, no safety rules to cover American insurance, just 100% freedom to ride at your own pace. After we got back I spent the rest of the day talking with the owner while Snowy, the hostel owner, tried fixing his starter. I learned a great deal about the local people and such things as how local blacks make guns from scratch (he had three he had confiscated, one made out of bolts and tubing that fired a .22). One of them had come from a worker of his that had got drunk and killed another man in the local 'village'. He said things are just not right in S. Africa, even though it can be safe. It was an interesting chat. The next day two Canadian doctors that are volunteering arrive. We go up to Castle Mountain and spend the day doing a 6 mile hike through some amazing mountains and creeks. Once we are done, I strip down to my undies and go swimming in the chilling crystal clear creek. It caps off an amazing day. We enjoy our evening and I head off that next day to Durban. I meet a nice Israel guy who is down for a few weeks just to surf. We go out and have a few drinks and call it a night. I am still unsure what I am doing so when the girls at the reception tell me to move on and gives me a good plan. I beg that bus to wait 1 second while I pack up. So with my hair and teeth unbrushed, I hop on the baz bus to the next stop. I end up in Port St. John later that day. I know these girls have made a good plan for me since I skipped about 10 stops and ended up at this place, where the deck of Amapada Hostel overlooked an amazing ocean and our own private beach. I spent two nights there and met some wonderful people. The last night we went to the local bar and I had a "J-Lew"ed night where I let the old drunk college guy come out. A crazy Irish guy, me, a British, and a local guy have some very interesting turn of events at the local bar (it consisted of a homemade bar next to a permanent mobile home and a fire pit). I hopped on the bus the next day and headed to Coffee Bay. The few days I spent there was highlighted by the amazing beach but doing a local cultural tour with a local guy our age. He took us up into the village and showed us his family hut (made up dirt, grass, and manure which is made into cement like brick), how they are all green because that is the cheapest paint ($$ never matter until recently villagers with more money showing off by painting with different color which cost more), the local medicine man, the local culture, spiritual pool, and then we have dinner at his hut. It was truly a great experience and completely away from the backpacker route of beaches and tourist). To cap off the day we go to the local Shibeen, which is the village bar. It consists of a square hut about 20 by 10 feet with a smaller room next door for the beer. It is a brick (made of bricks of dirt and manure) building with no paint and no door, nothing inside expect beer cartons for chairs and one 1905 speaker hanging in the corner with a tape deck. Me and about 6 local drunks dance the evening away. I'm talking hilarious!! It isn't any different than a bar back home except there is one small light bulb, beer is .20 cents and comes in one liter milk cartons (tastes like something a college kid would try to home make to save $$), and the room is about the size of a bathroom. It is an amazing evening. I have some amazing footage for you who are interested when I get home. The hostel cooks up these huge local style meals for free on Sundays, so when we get back from the Shibeen we get to grub down on excellent food.

A day of riding in the mountains

Monday I spent the day on the bus making it to Port Elizebeth where we spent the night. Before we get there the girls can't get the sliding door open so I offer to help. The same time they push, I pull, leading to us ripping the sliding door off the hinges. To make it to our final destination we rig up the door back in place with a little luck and kicking. We arrive late and leave at 6:00 in the morning so we all just head to bed. We get up and head out on Tuesday (today). Me and another guy get off in Jeffery's Bay, which is where they hold the Billabong World Surf championships each year. It is a surfing Mecca. I have spent the day walking the town and enjoyed doing some browsing in the local surf shops. I am now deciding whether to keep my flight out of Cape Town to Joberg and then to India on the 10th or move it back to the 17th. The 10th is too early but the 17th would cut my India trip too short. Well, that is what is happening with me, I'll update hopefully before I leave Africa.

A rugby match in Cape Town

Coast of Hermanus

Doing a day hike in the mountains

Jefferis Bay, Best surfing in S. Africa

The bridge I JUMPED off of, the worlds highest!

THE CAGE!!

The coast!

The house I stayed in for a few days

The local guy I met and his family

The locals and I having a drink of homemade beer.