Shangri La

  Zhongdian, China
Monday, August 13, 2007

China.  Take the United States, eliminate the Democratic Party, quadruple the number of people, and run all government agencies through the Department of Motor Vehicles.  Now, like a Sim City game, put China on pause and let the new U.S. model go for 20 years.  I think the two would be remarkably similar.

Or, conversely, take China, somehow reduce the population by 50%, and let Hong Kong run the place.  Let this Sim City model run for 20 years and, again, I think the outcome would be remarkably to the U.S.  Maybe I'm crazy.

Zhongdian

Zhongdian.  Take Santa Maria apart, ship it to Colorado, and rebuild it on the outskirts of Telluride. 

Zhongdian has an incredibly beautiful setting: Tibetan peaks to the west, western Sichuan peaks to the north, lakes snuggled amongst smaller mountains just outside of town, ancient, authentic Tibetan Buddhist monasteries at each end of town, sitting at 3400 meters (11000 feet).  The old town luckily lacks the Disneyland perfection like Lijiang and lacks the massive crowds of tourists and retains the intricately carved wood building facades and friendly shopkeepers.  The only real down side is the massive generic Chinese urban sprawl outside the city.  Overall I find it my favorite city I have visited so far.  

Songzanlin Monastery

Yesterday with my Croatian friend I explored the peaceful monastery north of town called Ganden Sumtseling Gompa.  We both found it to be the most peaceful, authentic monastery that each of us had yet seen in China.  It reminded me of the two monasteries I visited in Mongolia.  I recalled how a guide at the first monastery I visited in Mongolia said that Mongolians feel a deep spiritual connection to Tibet and I recalled reading that Tibetans feel similarly.  Here in Zhongdian, in what is historically Tibet but lies outside the province of Tibet, I really feel the same peace that I felt in Mongolia.  The place has some untouchable connection to Mongolia.  The architecture feels similar.  The people have the same warmth and genuineness.  And so do their monasteries.

I spent today sleeping in, enjoying the nippy weather nestled under a heavy comforter, slowly enjoying a breakfast of French toast, eggs, an orange and coffee, chatting on-line with friends, and then spending the afternoon wandering through the old town, through the monastery in the center of the old town, perched up on a hill, and then hiking out of town up the small mountain/big hill to the east.  

Summit of hill above Zhongdian

Like always, when I get out of town, out to the countryside and take a walk or sit on a peak and stare out, my mind runs wild.  Sitting there on top of that peak under Tibetan prayer flags attached to a bamboo pyre, I sat staring out across Zhongdian, my mind running wild.  Those moments keep me going on these travels.

Two not so profound things I would like to share from that moment: one, China has awesome sidewalks.  They're like 30 feet wide plus there's often a separate lane separated by a planter for scooters and bikes.  Two, I couldn't help but notice that the sound of jackhammers and tractors came from every direction in town below me. 

I probably should've caught a bus to Xiangcheng first thing this morning as I'm hoping to traverse the western Sichuan mountains through Litang to Chengdu.  This might take me 6 days.  But the tranquility of Zhongdian kept me here for a full day and I'm glad, for now, that I stayed.  I have some anticipation about the coming journey.  Hopefully no snowstorms landslides or difficulties catching buses will prevent me from getting to Chengdu by the 18th.  Hopefully there'll be a bus at the bus station at 7:30 tomorrow morning going that way.  Hopefully it will still have room for me.  Because no one at the bus station can confirm or deny the possibilities.