Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is a city frozen in time. There is something uniquely charming about it. Perhaps it is the colorful surroundings; the abundance of red candles at the temples, the mix of colors on the traditional clothing or the Coca-cola signs against the dull stark buildings. Or perhaps it is the smells; the thick smoke of incense at the temples, the pollution from coal burning factories that blanket the valley or the smell of the Nepalese cuisine. To be in Kathmandu is like traveling back in time. Absorbing everything around you is a shock to the senses. Time moves at a slow pace and you can't help but feel that life in the Nepalese capital has not moved forward much in the last fifty years.
Politically at the time, Nepal was stable and as a result, tourists were few. The King of Nepal had assassinated the former King, claimed power and dismissed the parliament. The Maoist guerillas have emerged to demand for the King's resignation and have executed a number of bomb attacks on military targets. The Maoists were mostly established in the countryside outside of the cities but the King was still firmly in power because he had firm control of the army.
The Maoists are actually followers of Mao Tze Tung's communist philosophies. The amusing thing about this is that China has already moved on realizing that the philosophies don't work in practice and today is only communist by name. In practice it is perhaps the most capitalist country in the world. But here today in Nepal we have a group fighting for a Mao communist society.
Of the locals I had a chance to speak with; support for the King was 50/50. The educated and affluent were more sympathetic with the King and liked what he was doing to improve the economy and moving the country forward. The less affluent felt that he was corrupt and untrustworthy.
Traveling around Kathmandu, armed soldiers were a common sight and armed vehicles and tanks often spotted. Primitive Road blocks were scattered around the city and all vehicles wishing to pass through had to show official authorization. Our vehicle had no problems getting through once they realize that we were tourists.
Be sure to check out my pictures of Kathmandu, they tell a better story than I ever can. I have added commentary to most of them. Notice the surroundings and colors; a fascinating place.
Kathmandu highlights and trip notes:
- Must visit locations include Durbar Square, Swoyambhu Stupa (Monkey temple) and Pashupati Nath.
- Unlike many places where religious structures have been restored for the viewing enjoyment of tourists. The temples in Kathmandu are ancient, authentically covered in dried black and white pigeon droppings and melted red candle wax. Measured in inches.
- Hustlers are a plenty and can be aggressive.
- Nepalese food is a cross between Chinese and Indian. Items such as Curry and friend rice are quite common.
- Most restaurants, especially ones catered to foreigners have live music in the evening and usually a band consisting of musicians, singers and dancers. For some reason, they all have the sound system cranked way up leaving your ears ringing by the end of the evening
- Getting to hotel from airport. Go straight to the taxi hire counter and pay 300 rupees. That should get you to any hotel. The taxi you get into will likely be falling apart with exhaust steadily flowing in to occupy the free space in the cabin.
- Surprisingly, we found excellent Mexican food. Some of the best Enchiladas I've ever had.
- Walking around at night can be dangerous. I advise female travelers to not do so alone.
- Nepalese Rupees come at an exchange rate of $1 USD = 67 Rupees.
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