Chinese and Indian Conflict?
Trip Start
Jan 14, 2004
1
4
Trip End
Ongoing
Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia
Friday, January 30, 2004
Chinese and Indian conflict?
Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown is arguably one of the most lively and culturally rich Chinatowns in the world, a central location for both visitors and locals alike. Ripoffs of every brand name can be found here, from Timberland walking shoes to the classic Rolex wristwatch. The night I arrived the city had cleared a main street in Chinatown for its annual Chinese New Year celebration (the celebration was held on the first weekend following the official day of Chinese New Year). A large street stage was set up for head bopping music performances by famous Asian pop stars, while classic Indian and Chinese Malay dance routines helped to punctuate the hip/modern feel of the celebration. Thundering strings of fireworks routinely filled the hot and sticky night
Chicken Clay Pot
. And of course --- there was plenty of food. Banquet tables were set up end to end for about 75 yards down the middle of the street, each table covered with a buffet style spread of Chinese food. An arsenal of chopsticks and napkins were passed out to anyone walking within 10feet of the tables. Then at 9pm, the ropes surrounding the tables were let down to let a hungry public ravage at the food. Glass noodles tossed in peanut sauce, spring rolls, fried pillows, fried rice... was all free for the grabbing. Crafty locals could be seen stowing away large plates of food to take home while foreigners picked slowly at the strange food. Camera flashes of tourists and the blaring voice of the MC over the loudspeakers helped to add to the frenzy feel of the event. It was an unbelievable sight, hundreds of people devouring food directly from the tables with their chopsticks and bare hands. Sort of like home, just a lot bigger.My most memorable event occurred around 11pm the following night, the end of the working day for most vendors at the nightly street market in downtown Chinatown. I was on the hunt for a pair of fake Oakley sunglasses to blow my last few Malaysian Ringet on. I randomly stopped at a vendor's table, tried on a pair glasses and asked the Indian proprietor "how much?" Without lifting his head he said "Today I don't sell to Chinese. Sorry, go to one of the other vendors." All I could think was 'what the fudge did this guy just say?!' I was totally taken aback
Chinatown Night Scene
. I asked him once more, only to hear him repeat "I'm not selling to Chinese people today." I immediately broke out in my purest American English accent and told him I was actually born in Vietnam and am now living in America. He just shook his head and said "no Chinese today." I couldn't believe it, he wasn't going to sell to me just because I looked Chinese (I am Chinese). I walked away completely puzzled. I still don't understand why he said what he said, I'm just hoping it was because he was having a bad day, and not because he truly hates Chinese people. This isn't the first time I've heard of Chinese/Indian conflict in Malaysia, or in other parts of SE Asia for that matter. I'm interested in finding out more about what kind of relationship exists between Chinese and Indian people in other Malaysian communities. Send me an email if you have some insight.
