Back to the Mountains.
Trip Start
Apr 22, 2004
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Trip End
May 09, 2004
This is really one of the most memorable times I've had during my entire year in SE Asia. Did a 5day hike down one of the world's deepest gorges, the "Tiger Leaping Gorge." The mighty Yangste River is pummeled through a narrow passage of rock walls that was created over centuries of erosion as it wound through the valleys of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain range. There are no official guide maps or ranger stations for you to check in to, you just follow the vague directions that include "100yards past the last restaurant until you reach the metal gates on the left, go through the gates and past the school until you reach the football pitch, the trail begins on the other side." I was really doubtful of the veracity of these directions, even after I found the trailhead! However, once I passed the first small village and got onto the single track there was no doubt that I was on the right path. I could see the snow capped summits of Snow Mountain, as well as the numerous spray painted red arrows on rocks that pointed me to the first of several guesthouses along the way. I saw very few people while hiking, and not many more once at the guesthouses I stayed at. I opted not to stay at the Lonely Planet recommendations in Walnut Grove or at the halfway point (such as the aptly named "halfway house") because of the rumors I heard of crowds here. If you adjust your hike just slightly you can stay at much quieter, more scenic guesthouses where the owners will treat you much more like family than smelly transient backpackers. I ended up staying 2 night at the tea horse, nazi family house, and another that I forget the name of. Really a spectacular hike with innumerable gorgeous unadulterated views.
