Antigua and Volcano Pacaya
Trip Start
Jan 12, 2008
1
18
21
Trip End
May 05, 2008
Antigua Guatemala,
Guatemala
Monday, April 14, 2008
Greetings from Antigua. This is the most popular place for tourists to visit. Full of Spanish colonial architecture dating back to 1550, it is a wonderful city to photograph. It is also small enough that you can walk instead of taking taxis. The streets are cobblestone, sidewalks narrow and uneven. The building walls seem rather dull from the street, but when you enter a restaurant or shop there will be a beautiful planted courtyard in the middle of the building.
I took the city tour with author Elizabeth Bell. She has extensive knowledge of the history of Antigua, and local social problems including illiteracy, education, health care, and integrating the Mayan people who are 60% of the population. Highlights included visiting the Cathedral and seeing the old ruins they are restoring beside it. Visiting a jade museum and gift shop. Visiting the Hotel Santo Domingo, which began as ruins that were excavated 5-12 feet of dirt and rubble, then restored into beautiful courtyards, fountains, two museums and art galleries, and of course a beautiful hotel and restaurant. I would highly recommend the tour to anyone visiting.
Volcano Pacaya
Saturday I went on an afternoon excursion to climb Volcano Pacaya. After a 2 hour ride in a van, we climbed for an hour up to the rim of the volcano. Then we had a short steep climb down into the cauldron to the lava bed. It was exciting to stand right by molten lava, we even walked out onto some hard black lava slabs to take pictures.
If Antigua had a dollar for every photo taken
The air was hot and tinged with the smell of sulfur. We had fun feeding a small dog our left over snacks, I think the dog lived up there and greeted each party for food. We sat by the lava for an hour until it became dark, the lava glowed more as the sky darkened. We left around 6 p.m. and it started raining as night fell. By the time we climbed out of the cauldron to the rim there was lightening in the sky, and one loud crack with a half second delay made me jump.We used flashlights to light the trail, which quickly became muddy and slippery. It took an hour to reach the van. It was a memorable hike. On the ride back the windshield of the van got foggy from our combined breathing, the rainy weather, and the lack of a blower. As the driver peered though the hazy windshield, a lady from Texas became so agitated she finally asked in English 'Why doesn't the bus driver wipe the windshield? Does anyone else in the van feel unsafe?' The rest of us had all been in Latin America long enough to know that you don't tell the bus driver what to do, and besides he only spoke Spanish and hadn't understood anything she said. I was tempted at that time to lean forward and ask her if she went to church on a regular basis. If so, she should consider it a test of her faith in God (which she appeared to be failing). But I decided not to say anything to her.
Lake Atitlan
With three major volcanos and ringed by mountains, this lake reminds me of Alaska. The water is blue, about 24 miles wide and 1000 feet deep. It is a beautiful area. Unfortunately my experience was marred by several things. First is the constant presence of people trying to sell you cloth, bracelets and other hand made items. Even while eating in the restaurant I was approached by little kids selling stuff. It quickly became tiring. I don't think it is healthy for little kids to be doing this instead of going to school.
The other thing that bothered me was a lot of little incidents where I felt I was being taken advantage of. Like not getting the correct change, or not getting a good exchange rate when paying for something. It felt as if some people will do what ever necessary to make a few extra bucks off tourists. Even at the customs office when I left Guatemala, the officer demanded 10 quitzels, even though it isn't legally required to pay him anything. Half of us paid, the other half said no, and we figured out it was a scam after we got into the van and started discussing it with each other. I know the country is poor, but they should realize that if tourists feel cheated they won't come back.
Comments
zowie, batman!!
Wow! look at that magma! Talk about hot Latin nights...or afternoons, that is. This last missive was fascinating, and intriguing. Sounds like quite the place with all the renovations, scams, and scenery. Isn't it amazing how each place has its own flavor according to whatever economics, politics or culture is there, among other factors...I hope you are still having a good time over all. We had a foot of snow out on the back loop yesterday!! It was all gone by afternoon and bright and sunny. Broke some record, of course. Later...Leslie
hey jim
Hows the spanish going? I suppose you have learned enough to get by but not great conversationist! Did you have a good birthday? We have had more snow in april than the rest of the year. But this weekend it finally warmed up and feels like spring again. It really melted alot but still snow out there. Call me when you get back, right away. I leave May 11. talk to ya soon.