NAPLES...COULDN'T WAIT TO LEAVE IT

Trip Start Jun 02, 2012
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52
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Trip End May 31, 2014


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Flag of Italy  , Campania,
Tuesday, February 26, 2013



After leaving Civitavecchia (Riva di Traiaino) we headed south to the Island of Ponza and anchored for the night in a sheltered cove on the West side. Next morning we meant to reach Ischia on the Northern end of the Bay of Naples but with wind and tidal flow against us we decided to turn off at Ventotene and shelter in the harbour there for that night.  We got some fuel and then tied up on a pontoon with the help of the Ormaggeatori who then disappeared off home.  We had a walk round the harbour to try and find the office but there was no sign of one anywhere, so we took a few photos of the Roman harbour (hacked out from the rock) and then went back to the boat to get warm.  A French yacht came in alongside us shortly afterwards to shelter from the squall that was blowing by then.

We were off by 7.50am next morning without any sight of a Capitania so we had a free berth.  The Frenchies whom we saw later in Ischia were 10 minutes too late!

We arrived at the harbour of Ischia about 4pm avoiding the very fast ferries that charge in and out all day.  It is a very small harbour and we were directed onto a pontoon by the quayside by the Ormaggeatori .  It was a smashing spot and the harbour is very attractive with one house showing some pots of daffodils in full bloom.  There was also a very sexy motor launch opposite in a gorgeous yellow.

Steve went to the office and came back saying it was 50€ for the night.  After all our shoestring berths it was a lot more than usual but inviting the Frenchies on board for a cuppa we at least had water and electricity and shower use if needed whereas they paid 40€ for nothing but a berth.  Steve used the showers and reported back that as usual the fittings were good but the workmanship was crap with paint peeling off the walls badly and they had to turn the hot water on!   We saw on the noticeboard that it is 170€ for a weekend night in August.   It's daylight robbery.

So next day we had a 25nm sail across the Bay of Naples to get to Castellamare and the Marina di Stabia.  The sun was shining and we enjoyed the sail across reaching the marina about 5pm.  It is a huge brand new marina with finger berths i.e pontoons that you tie-up alongside of and not with the bow and stern method as is the norm here.  Unfortunately, there are ugly derelict buildings where the development has not yet been finished so not a pleasant outlook and 55€ a night here in the winter.  I mention the cost of things for all you sailors out there who may be thinking of visiting the areas.

We planned to spend a day in Naples at the Museo Archealogica and one day at Pompei at the least.  So, next day a 15€ taxi to the Circumversuviana train station and we got into Naples city.  The place is still as dirty and rundown as I remember it from years ago and Steve was not impressed. We caught the Metro to the museum and enjoyed looking at the mosaics and other artifacts that were there from Pompei and other areas.  Some of them were just like paintings they were so intricately done.  On re-entering the Metro Steve was jousled at the ticket barrier and then felt a hand going into his pocket for his mobile phone.  I’m sorry to say that was enough for us and we are happy not to go there again.

Next morning was wet but as it was our last day we had to go to Pompei.  We walked to the nearest station this time and hopped onto the train to Pompei Scavi for free as there was no station office and no-one checking!  The site is only a few metres from the station and we got our tickets and  audio-guides for the visit.  I had been twice before but Steve had not seen the ruins at all so we did all the major buildings dodging the rain showers.  Unfortunately both of the audio-guides stopped working before we had gotten halfway round which was very annoying.

Work is continuing on the excavations and the latest one is being used more for scientific and archealogical study to learn more about the lives of the citizens.  They are going to put in a walkway for the public so that you can see the experts working in situ.

So 4 hours we were there and Steve went to take the guides back and complain to the girl asking for our money back.  She didn’t like it at all and went off on a rant about it being our fault for using it in the rain!  We had the same in Rome when the blooming things kept stopping.  They are so rude it’s unbelievable.  Anyway, we got the 10€ back and spent it in the shop instead.

Back on the train we stopped off and got some provisions on the way back to the boat.  It was still raining heavily on and off and we were both rather wet by now.  We got ourselves somewhat lost but eventually found the route back.  Steve decided to try and find the Hypermarket and I continued on to Dunikolu. He turned up later with some provisions and reported that the lady on the checkout refused to sell him some sweets!  "NO" she says and puts them aside.  Can you imagine that happening in the Uk?

So Steve had had enough of Naples and in truth so had I. Why anyone would want to come here we do not know.  The place is filthy, the people rude and arrogant.  Castellamare , the town, seemed much nicer and more of the real Italian population..

  We waited for a weather window to get out and across the Golf of Salerno to Maretea a passage of 80nm.  Then it was blowing a hooley outside with gusts of 38knots and I refused to move until it calmed down to at least 18knots as it was going to be an overnight crossing…not my favourite thing to do but I do see the reasoning for it. 
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Comments

pauline and roly on

Hi Jilly and Steve!another interesting read!Especially liked all the photos including those of the casts of the positions those people died in in that eruption so many years ago..fascinating!Ischia certainly sounds VERY expensive, and as for Naples(don't think that'll be on my list after your report!)Did Steve's mob get stolen or did he manage to rescue it?How odd that Steve couldn't purchase the sweets!
Start my physio next Mon(4th), some progress at last!, love, Pauline xx (love from Roly toox)

Linda Sherlock on

Hi, Jilly
Was very interested to red your travelogue on Naples. I shall b flying there in May, but not staying centrally. We will be staying at a place called Caserta which, apparently, is still very run-down but is very close to the magnificent Palace di Caserta. However, I shall guard my handbag! We are only there for one night at the start of a tour of southern Italy and Sicily.

Regards to you both

Linda

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