MAJORCA. A fond farewell to this island

Trip Start Jun 02, 2012
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Trip End May 31, 2014


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Flag of Spain  , Balearic Islands,
Wednesday, January 9, 2013

PALMA….SHE WAS A DA-A-AY TRIPPER!

We had as traditional a Christmas Day as possible on board.  Lights were up festooning the cockpit and saloon, a tree was in the corner and presents closeby.
The turkey was duly cleavered in half and we had one half for the 25th with all the accoutrements and delicious it all was too.  Gigi was watched on a dvd for our evening entertainment.  Why hasn’t anyone made a stage musical of it?

After a very pleasant stay in the city we ended our stay on New Year’s Eve joining in with the locals at the town hall square for the midnight striking of the clock.  After that we found the English bar that I had noticed a couple of days before and joined in with them for the Big Ben striking and the London fireworks on the TV one hour later! The fireworks were amazing and it was almost like being home again.  So after a couple of drinks there we headed back to the boat
and were now ready to leave Palma.

It was during our stay in Palma that I realised that I am not a proper sailor.  The Beatles song “Day Tripper” sprang to mind to me because I just cannot do anything longer than a day without
feeling ill.  The thought of 2 days and nights at sea crossing to Sardinia was not a pleasurable one and I was getting down about it, i.e bursting into tears at our last dinner with Mark!  Oops! Hence, I am flying home on the 10th January and then going back to Rome on the 19th to get a ferry to meet up with Steve in Sardinia on the 20th.  It’s the only way that I can continue the trip…..so..

Cala Pi

We headed off next day to anchor at a tiny anchorage called Cala Pi.  God was it small but we squeezed ourselves in and anchored with both the bow and stern anchors put to use. We were the only boat there. Night came down like a thick blanket very soon after we had sorted ourselves out and we settled down for the night with the steep cliffs on either side of us within 10m either way.  The heating was not working so I had to wear 2 fleeces to keep warm!  Now, we had the heating repaired in Torrevieja so why it wasn’t working…who knows?

CALA SANTANYI…THINGS THAT GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT

No occurrences during the night and we were off next morning to anchor at Cala Santanyi. The sailing was great to start off with but then as we tried to turn the corner of the headland we found that it was not possible to steer even a reasonable course to the anchorage so we had to motorsail the final 6nm.  We may have persevered if it had been the summer but with the light gone by 5.30pm it is not a good idea to go into unknown calas in the blackness of the night.  This is another very small cala with steep cliffs on either side but sheltered from the choppy sea that we had. We managed to anchor by 5pm and had a very quick dinghy trip ashore to stretch our legs more than anything because like all these calas they are closed for the winter.  It certainly was a super spot though and the water, like that in Cala Pi, was so clear and turquoise blue in the sunlight.

After supper we checked our charts and pilotage books for the next day’s sailing.  We had torrential rain during the evening and could hear the wind gusting outside but felt snug and safe inside Dunikolu. We read our books and did the crossword until time for bed.  As I was stepping into the cabin my feet felt dampness!  Oh no!.  We lifted the floor up and found a puddle of water underneath so Steve checked out the engine compartment and siphoned up the water that he found there.  We do not know quite where it was coming from but probably the drive-shaft.
If you have ever slept on a small boat/yacht you will know that there are always noises.  They get exaggerated when you are inside so every little whine, groan, creak and ping you hear you want to know what it is!  Ear plugs are an absolute must onboard.  We went to sleep with the
knocking noises as usual and anchored firmly bow and stern again.  At 7am I was woken with a loud jerking thump on the hull.  It didn’t sound like the usual thumps so I looked out of the hatch and it was ok so got up to check it out anyway.  I looked out of the port side to see that we had hit the rocky cliff!  Oh dear!  “Steve, get up, we’ve hit the rocks”.  So there we were at 7am getting ourselves off the cliffs and we had to reset the anchor again.  What had happened was the wind had changed direction in the night and had dragged the stern anchor and because the cala was so narrow we had bumped into the cliff.

No serious damage was done and we were snug back to bed 45 minutes later, me with my fleece jacket on to get warm after shivering outside!  It was only later on during the next sail that Steve noticed that the ensign and pole had gone awol!

PORTO COLOM

Next morning we were off again to Porto Colom.  The wind was pretty much dead against us so we had to resign ourselves to motorsailing the 9nm there because the sea was also very choppy
and rough.  (Officially rough by Steve).  The wind was gusting at 22 knots at times but we laboured along the coastline the few miles needed and slowly turned ourselves into Porto Colom with a gradual increase in our speed as we approached.  We got ourselves a mooring buoy (23 €) with the help of the marinero and could relax for the night.  Steve wanted to find the chandlery to get a new ensign so we got T3 ready to take us ashore.  Unfortunately, she was acting up again
so with some persuasion Steve managed to get her ticking over properly and we
went ashore to pay the dues and find some bread and a flag/pole.  We found a loaf but no chandlery so back to Dunikolu.
When we got back to the boat the heating was blasting out so much that it was too hot!  So we opened the hatches to let air in!  Why it suddenly came on….who knows?

PORTO CRISTO….BACK TO THE PAST

A lovely sail to Porto Cristo following the coastline and we dropped the sails outside the harbour and gently motored in. We knew where the anchorage was because of the almanac and pilotage book but it seemed very small.  After a brief discussion we radioed into the Club Nautico but no response from them which meant we had to anchor which we did.

When you are looking about for an anchorage position you don’t notice your surroundings.  Steve is up front waving his arms about from L to R and I am trying to follow his directions on the helm and shouting out depth readings to him!

It’s only when you are set that you stop to look around properly.  The last time I was in Porto Cristo was about 50 years ago and it was the first time we as a family had a holiday abroad.  I remember my brother and I diving off the quayside and generally having fun in the warm water.  So it was like looking back in time to go back there and see how it had changed. 

 In fact the town had changed very little but the harbour had become a marina and lots and lots of very nice villas had been built on the cliff tops.  The hotel where we stayed had turned into a shop (closed for the winter).

Anyway, our position under the rocky cliff and 100m from the beach was idyllic with the clear clear azure water around us and the sun hot on our backs.

6th January 2013..CALA SA FONT

A restful night at anchor and we were off again to Cala Sa Font close by to Puerto de Cala Ratjada.

Another great sail along the coast and Puerto Ratjada came into sight after rounding the headland before it. We were going to berth alongside the breakwater but as we were approaching the Puerto I remembered that there was an anchorage before it.  The weather was fantastic with the sun so hot on our backs and the sea calm that we turned off and went into this beautiful Cala for the night.

A couple of men were swimming close to the beach and it made me test the water…but it was just too cool at 3-4m deep.  The shorts and light top came out of the store and my sailing fleece was discarded!

Steve went ashore to explore and came back 2 hours later having met some Germans and got a couple of pints down him at the one and only bar open by the beach.  I stayed onboard reading my Ruth Rendell book and enjoying the sunshine.

Stores are getting low but water is still about half full so tomorrow I think we shall have to go into
a marina. 

6th - 10th January 2013 COLONIA SANT PERE

We had a great sail along to this small marina tucked into the Bay of Alcudia.  The marina was a small fishing harbour but the members had financed it’s conversion into a marina.  After a brief stroll around and having a drink in the bar the marinero said we had to move the boat to another
berth.  A zona wifi sign was on the office wall and having got the code we had the best connection since I can’t remember when!  A little later we went out for a meal because we only had 4 eggs and a few bits n pieces left in the stores and couldn’t face another omelette.  The most delicious fresh locally caught grilled sea bass and some vegetables at the restaurant went down very well indeed. It weighed 1kg and the waitress served it from the platter to our plates

Next day we really needed to find some stores and fortunately there was a small supermercado in the tiny town where we got a few essentials. 

Everybody was very helpful and we found out that I could get a taxi-bus from here to Arta then get a bus to Palma to get a taxi to the airport!  We were given a telephone number to ring 24 hours in advance to book the taxi-bus. With some internet research I found out that I could get a bus at Arta at 0925 to Palma.  So, then I phoned the taxi-bus and in my worst Spanish managed to book them for 0900 on Thursday morning.  Now we were keeping our fingers crossed that it all worked out as planned and I could get to the airport for 1400.

That evening we finished off watching the last of ALL of the POLDARK dvds that I brought
onboard.  It was so good that serial that I thoroughly enjoyed watching it again and even Steve had no objections!  By the by….we also had Black Adder on at Christmas brought on board by Mark.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Next day Steve and I did the boat chores i.e me doing the inside and him washing all the salt off the deck.  I also made a huge fruitcake for him to eat whilst sailing on his own.  That night we walked over to the other restaurant by the marina and had the most delicious meal of the whole trip so far.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         My last day and we had planned a trip to Arta using the taxi-bus but it failed to appear at the designated time so we had to stay in Colonia.  There was a stinker of a KenKen in the Mail of April that I had tried to do the previous night.  We both had a go at it when we got back to the boat. We could not do it.  It just did not work out no matter how you tried it.                               

 So we were there until I left for the UK in the morning and Steve left for Menorca.  The weather was still superb and it was a beautiful area to be in.

 Majorca.....I had not been to this island for 25 years when we had 2-3 holidays there in Puerto Pollensa with our children.  The island seemed much the same to me from the boat with many many beautiful calas.  At this time of year the beaches and calas were deserted and so peaceful that it is hard to imagine that during the summer the whole island must be full of visiting boats, jet skis, pleasure trips and goodness knows what else.

I think we had the best of it sailing out of season.  The marinas, when we used one, charged a reasonable rate (which doubles or trebles in the summer).  We have had amazing weather, good sailing on the whole and met some smashing people.

 So goodbye to Majorca.  I for one would love to come back again for a holiday with my children and grandchildren.

 Next stop the Lake District and the UK until the 19th when I rejoin Steve for the next leg of our trip sailing the French coast (Corsica) and then onto Bella Italia.

  

 




 

 

 

 




 

 

 

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Comments

pauline and roly on

Hi Jilly! you'll be back in Blighty and en route to the Lake District by now-have a good few days. SO sory to hear the sea-sickness is still a blooming nuisance. So glad you didn't get any bad damage when you hit the rocks. The meals out you describe and the gorgeous weather sound idyllic, much love, us xx

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