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  Rongphu monastery, China
Tuesday, October 16, 2007

coldest night of my life at everest base camp, i even stuck my arse through the window..

we arrived early afternoon and took tea and struggled with food (the height kills your appetite) in the rongkpu monastery lodge, 10 land cruisers (or there about's) were dotted in the car park, drivers tinkered with the engines and setup, presumably making arrangements for the coldest night of the journey (Denzin our drive was filling up with -20 petrol the whole way) power cables draped crossed the parking lot and dangled in the way whilst walking, it was extremely bitter, but overwhelmingly bright..  Lightheaded and giddy with the altitude we were advised that because the climbing season was over and finished with for another year, that we could take the landy down the 8km of winding roads to the end point of the basecamp - the closest you can get to everest without paying the additional permit fees..

We all hop'd in, layered up and ready with cameras and drove down the through the camp, which was stretched out over the gaps in the remains of the glacier flow, the highest post office in the world was shut up for the day (and winter) and was the only visible modern building between us and the giant mass of the pyramid shaped top of the world.

driving through the emtpy basecamp..

The clouds above us were extremely faint, dust maybe thin cloud covered wind swept across and up the valley channeling over the Himalaya on to the plateau of Tibet, it was alien and totally void of thriving life, crows squalled in sky circling trying to eye up the location of the next sky burial. Disturbed dust and rocks lay waiting on the hills surrounding looking like they had only just been avalanched.  We continued on to the base of the last mound in the glacier remains, where some more Chinese constructed buildings waited for us to our surprise, the local police station and charming toilet block! Can't imagine the pluming would be up to much, at least it's all down hill from here!

Out we got and tracked up along the lines of prayer flags in the shelter of the hailing winds, then we broke over the ridge point at the top and the big guy was square in front of us, although parts were hidden behind the smoke like clouds that continually wisped along its statue. It moved, it changed, it hide, it was uncovered, we stood and squatted along the ridge looking in pure child like amazement at the monster. Pet and Ayse went down from the exposed reach of the view point and I just mealy sat there on a protruding rock and watch the show continue..  I could have sat there all day as it flexed and stood strong as the (relevantly) calm weather wrapped and smashed into it.

ayse and pet taking in the view..

A certain highlight to the trip.

me wrapped up on the ridge..

I returned to the vehicle where Pet and Asye decided to walk the return leg of the journey back to the monastery, I waved them off and soaked up the warmth of the land cruiser (I think it was the first time that Denzein, the driver had put the heating on.. he even was sporting a leather jacket) We took a detour to part of the Rongkpu monastery that was half way between the end of the base camp and the lodge. Inside was a very simply and cozy space filled with a single monk and a few local pilgrims or perhaps tourist (I couldn't work it out, they were too chatty for pilgrims but looked Tibetan and there for not tourist).  I was then prompted to head down a small hole in the floor in one of the corners of the room, a strange glow shone up and I squeezed my frame through the Tibetan side gap.  Down inside was the space that a Buddha reincarnation spent 40 days meditating, a giant sized foot print almost double the size of my uk11 boot was edged into the stone, blackened walls from years of yak butter burning and a strange roof where although it should be warm from the heat generated from with, felt cold as a damp draft would suck the heat out of your hand. Very eerie.

Then back outside to the testing cold, we returned to the lodge and warmed up with some local spirit purchased by our guide for 5y (about 30 pence)! Not the most ideal way of dealing with the AMS, but it still hit the spot.. and after 2hrs Pet and Ayse returned, our driver was clock watching during this time and looked almost ready to head out and search at a time pre-agreed in his mind.

I crashed out after this; the effects of the 35% strong random alcohol were taking hold.  I did however manage to put my arse through the one of the windows in our room!

my arse is tooo big..

  Pet and Ayse weren't best pleased, the wind was picking up and snow started to fall outside, and my DIY air con was not the best idea I've ever had! After patching it up with some cardboard from the food-stock box, I struggled under the 3 blankets and duvet and into my sleeping bag and restly tried to sleep for a few moments.

Because of the rapid drive up we were not fully acclimatized to the 5.2km altitude.

Night was coming and I woke and decided to venture for the dinning hall and some activity before settling in proper for the night, the light was dim in the room and car park but Everest was in it's prime, fully lit up and glowing in the sunset..  like a fine oil painting it shone down the valley at us..

everest..

(also check out.. ayse & pet's blog / photos..)